Return this book on or before the Latest Date stamped below. University of Illinois Library THE COMPLETE GARDEN BOOKS BY ALBERT D. TAYLOR Partial List of Plants Available for Various Uses in General Landscape Planting Street Trees: Their Care and Preservation Complete Garden, The Plate I. The scarlet thorns planted on both sides of the wall on either side of the gate make an excellent frame for this architectural detail at the garden entrance. (See Plate XXIV, page 158) THE COMPLETE GARDEN BY ALBERT D.TAYLOR, M.S. A. Fellow American Society of Landscape Architects Non-resident Professor Landscape Architecture in Ohio State University ASSISTED BY GORDON D. COOPER, B.S.A. Member American Society of Landscape Architects ILLUSTRATED WITH FIFTY FULL PAGE CUTS, FOUR LINE CHARTS, AND NINE COLOURED PLATES GARDEN CITY, N. Y., AND TORONTO DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 1921 COPYRIGHT, 1921, BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN HEMOTE STORAGE PREFACE Reasons For This Book. The author has for some time felt that there was needed in the landscape field, especially by the amateur gardener, a book of this type. He has believed that such a book would be of value to everyone who is interested in the important work of landscape plantings, not only to the amateur but to the expert gar- dener and to the property owner who has made an exhaustive study of plant uses and plant adaptations. One of the reasons for the publication of these planting lists for differ- ent purposes is that it provides a permanent record for future reference. There is no good reason why a landscape architect thoroughly familiar, as a result of years of experience, study, and observation, with the use of plants should devote his time and thought to the compilation of lists of plants for different purposes, such as wild gardens, spring gardens, rock gardens, and bog gardens in connection with some specific problem only to have this list of material cease to exist for the use of others, as soon as the work in question is completed. Plant lists compiled by capable landscape architects are too frequently used only for one problem, thus requiring the next man who starts to work upon a similar problem to begin his study, not where the other man left off, but at the same point where the other man began, duplicating work and wasting much time and energy. It is not meant to imply that all ornamental plants can be confined within definite standardized lists from which those who attempt to select plants for a specific purpose must choose. It is the author's sincere feeling that lists of plants compiled as the result of the different studies and investigations con- tinually being made, in connection with the landscape problems of many clients, may be accepted as a starting point or a reference beyond which a planter is at full liberty to go when he wishes to use species and varieties which are unusual and rare, or whenever the conditions of his specific problem require it. The responsibility for the original idea conceived as a basis for the development of this book may be traced to the author's experience in classroom work and in teaching. In this field of work, from a peda- a c vi PREFACE gogical standpoint, he has felt the need of a systematic classification, based upon the association of ideas which would aid in remembering and grouping plants. Through learning to know plants by their group associations a comprehensive knowledge of them may be gath- ered and retained with little effort. One of the easiest ways of memo- rizing is through the association of ideas. This is the fundamental principle upon which the information in the various groups is based. The same condition has been found in office work. Men with the greatest range of knowledge covering the identification of plants and the botanical classification of plants have found a smaller book of this kind indispensable as a ready reminder of the possibilities of plant uses, when working out planting designs. The first abridged edition of this book was published in 1916, primarily for the use of the author and a few of his friends in pro- fessional work. It was largely local in character. It has met with such a favourable reception, however, and so many requests have been received asking that a book of this kind be continued, and that the field be covered by comprehensive information, that this revised edition is the result. Object of This Book. It is hoped that this book will serve as a ready reference to those who have no authoritative source of informa- tion, and whose limited opportunity and limited time for observation have not enabled them to become familiar with a wide range of materials, and to keep familiar with it. This information is not compiled for the purpose of taking the place of the services of a professional landscape architect, where the problem is of sufficient magnitude to justify his employment. This book will assist those who, having no available sources of reliable information at hand, are prone to accept the advice of "landscape quacks" and self-styled landscape architects with little training. The question is often asked, "What plants can I use for a specific purpose?" This is asked by both professional landscape architects and by owners of properties. This book will place at the disposal of such persons a list of plants from which species and varieties may be selected advisedly. The discussion does not by any means represent a complete study of this subject. It will take years of checking, verification, and criticism, before a compact compilation of this material can be put into PREFACE vii final shape which will be valuable as a reference in all sections of the country, where plants other than tropical are used for landscape effects. The correct selection of plants for various purposes in landscape work is but a part of the success of landscape plantings. One should know not only the correct use of plants as indicated in these lists, but their landscape value from the standpoint of their adaptation to design and composition, as well as how to plant and to maintain them. For those unfamiliar with plant materials the information in this book should be supplemented with additional information which may be easily procured from descriptions in nursery catalogues, encyclopedias, and garden books. The Essential Character of the Book. The main idea behind this method of compiling information for the use of those interested in landscape plantings is that of providing a compact reference manual from which fundamental information can be easily obtained. In reality it is more in the form of a "landscape dictionary." The chapters which have been introduced into this volume are a series of summarized fundamental principles with reference to the respective chapter headings, and they are not in the form of many magazine articles, so compiled as to be interesting to many persons who really read the articles, not always because of the facts in them, but because of the camouflaged outlines. The System of Nomenclature. In the compilation of the plant lists, and generally throughout the text of the book, an earnest effort has been made to conform to the recommendations of the American Joint Committee on Horticultural Nomenclature as adopted and published in the 1917 official code of standardized plant names. The two new rulings of this committee regarding botanical names also have been adopted. These rulings are that all botanical names except the generic name shall begin with a lower case letter and not with a capital letter; and second, that in the case of all specific names hereto- fore ending in a double "i" one of these "i's" shall be dropped. Thus Berberis Thunbergii will become Berberis ihunbergi. Since this code fails to cover many horticultural varieties of plants it has sometimes seemed wiser to follow the nomenclature of Bailey's Standard Cyclo- pedia of American Horticulture, especially in the case of garden forms of plants. An effort has been made to find the most generally accepted viii PREFACE common name for each plant; or, where none was available, to invent a common name which would be descriptive of the plant and helpful in fixing its valuable characteristics in mind. Acknowledgments. For notes on the behaviour of the newer introductions and for valuable assistance in the checking of the plant lists the author is indebted to M. H. Horvath, Landscape Architect, Cleveland, Ohio, and to Henry Kohankie, Nurseryman, Painesville, Ohio, both of whom have done important work in the introduction and testing of many sorts of plants. For many valuable observations on the behaviour, hardiness, and adaptability of ornamental plants in their respective sections of the country the author is indebted to Charles H. Ramsdell, Landscape Architect, and Phelps Wyman, Landscape Architect, of Minneapolis, Minnesota, and to A. M. Hill, Nurseryman, of Dundee, Illinois. In addition the author is indebted : For lists of plants adapted to the South Atlantic States, to Charles F. Gillette, Landscape Architect, Richmond, Virginia, and to Earle Draper, Landscape Architect, Charlotte, North Carolina; and for lists of plants adapted to the Oregon and Washington Coastal Plain to Professor Arthur L. Peck of the Oregon State Agricultural College at Corvallis, Oregon. For lists of plants and much information concerning planting and seeding methods in Florida the author is indebted to E. N. Reasoner, Nurseryman, Oneco, Florida; H. H. Hume, Nurseryman, Glen St. Mary's, Florida, and C. L. Whipp, Florist, Jacksonville, Florida. For much valuable information about the preparation of lawns and golf course fairways and greens in Florida the author is indebted to O. B. Roche, Superintendent of the Palm Beach Golf Course, Palm Beach, Florida, and to J. R. Van Kleek, Sebring, Florida. For numerous practical suggestions covering landscape uses and notes on the propagation and maintenance of all sorts of ornamental plants the writer thanks George Jacques, Superintendent of "Gwinn," Bratenahl Village, Ohio; J. R. Brydon, Superintendent of "Glen Allen," Cleveland, Ohio, and E. O. Orpet, formerly Superintendent at "Walden," Lake Forest, Illinois. For unselfish devotion to the oftentimes uninteresting work of copy reading, checking, and indexing, without which this work would never have been completed, much credit is due to the following members of the author's office staff: Gordon D. Cooper, W. Hoxie Hillary, Lucie L. PREFACE ix French, Eleanor Hills Christie, J. R. Van Kleek, E. H. Trout, Frank B. Meyer, and Anne C. Thompson. For many of the illustrations in this book the author is indebted to the following persons: Mattie Edwards Hewitt for plates Nos. 12, 21, 26, 44, and 47; The D. Hill Nursery Company for plate No. 17; Mary E. Eaton for plates Nos. 31, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39, 46, and 49; Mr. and Mrs. F. F. Prentiss for plates Nos. 11, 20, 49, 50, 52, 53, and 59; Mr. W. G. Mather for plates Nos. 1, 15, 24, 27, and 28; J. Horace McFarland Company for plates Nos. 18, 22, 23, 30, 32, 37, 40, 41, 43, 56, 57, and 58. Woodlawn Cemetery Association for plate No. 42; The Wm. H. Moon Company for plate No. 7; Nathan R. Graves Company for plate No. 33; Mr. and Mrs. W. A. Thomas for plate No. 51; Mr. and Mrs. Charles F. Lang for plates Nos. 45 and 54. Future Cooperation Invited. Corrections and criticisms will be always welcomed by the author, and this volume will be enlarged and corrected as conditions justify. Albert D. Taylor. Prospect and Forty-sixth Streets, Cleveland, Ohio. August 1, 1920. CONTENTS Preface . v PART I General Planting Suggestions CHAPTER .. FACB I. Introduction 3 II. Planting and Seeding Seasons 8 III. Pruning 18 IV. Planting and Transplanting 29 V. Lawns 52 VI. Bulb Culture 65 VII. Maintenance 73 VIII. Winter Protection and Mulching "~. 100 PART II Lists for Reference IX. Evergreens 109 A — Most hardy m B — Best adapted for use in mid-west 112 C — Not adapted for use in mid-west 113 D — Adapted to partial shade in wooded areas . . 113 E — Low-growing, formal types 114 X. Street and Avenue Planting 115 A — Trees which are entirely hardy under all condi- tions 116 B — Trees which should be selected with a thorough knowledge of the conditions under which they are to be used 117 C — Trees which should never be used on streets. . 117 XI. Plants for Use in Congested City Districts 118 A — Trees 119 B — Shrubs 120 xi xii CONTENTS CHAPTER PACE XII. Plants for Hedges 121 A — Barriers 123 a. Holding leaves during winter 123 b. Not holding leaves during winter .... 124 B — Edgings for walks and for garden borders. . . 124 C — Windbreaks and solid screens 125 D — Privacy 125 E — Hedges for bleak exposures 126 a. Late foliage 126 b. Close shearing 126 c. Unsheared low hedges 126 d. Fruiting hedges 126 e. Shady places 126 XIII. Plants for Border Planting 127 A — Masses for refined lawn areas 128 a. Low-growing shrubs 128 b. Medium-growing shrubs 129 c. Tall-growing shrubs. 129 B — Masses consisting mostly of native collected shrubs 130 a. Low-growing shrubs 130 b. Medium-growing shrubs 130 c. Tall-growing shrubs 131 XIV. Accent and Specimen Trees and Shrubs 132 A— Trees 133 a. Accent and specimen trees j . 133 b. Columnar and pyramidal trees 134 B— Shrubs 135 XV. Plants Valuable for Use in Rock Gardens, in Japanese Gardens, and in Wall Crevices 136 A — Evergreens 138 B — Deciduous trees and shrubs 139 C — Perennials 139 XVI. Plants for Heavy, Formal Effects 141 A — Border planting 144 B — Topiary work and close shearing 145 a. Evergreen H5 b. Deciduous H5 C — Growing in tubs 146 CONTENTS xiii PAGB D — Trees and shrubs for allees 146 a. Pleached 146 b. Not pleached (open allees) 147 1. Deciduous 147 2. Evergreen 147 XVII. Plants for Natural, Informal Effects 148 XVIII. Low-Growing Plants Along the Inner Side of Curving Roadways and at Entrances 150 A — Evergreen 151 B — Deciduous 151 XIX. Trees and Shrubs for Different Flowering Effects . . . 152 A — Producing flowers in early spring before leaves appear 154 B — Producing flowers in early spring after leaves appear 154 C — Producing flowers during early summer . . . 155 D — Producing flowers during late summer and early autumn 156 E — Producing flowers in shades of red and pink . . 156 a. Early-flowering sorts 157 b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts . . . 157 F — Producing yellow flowers 157 a. Early-flowering sorts 157 b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts . . . 158 G — Producing white flowers 158 a. Early-flowering sorts 158 b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts . . . 158 H — Producing blue flowers 159 I — Continuous bloom from twelve shrubs . . . . 159 XX. Plants Valuable for the Characteristics of Their Fruit. . 160 A — Producing fruit of peculiarly interesting form or size 161 B — Producing fruit valuable for its colour effects. . 162 C — Producing fruit valuable during the winter months 163 D — Producing fruit valuable for attracting birds. . 164 a. Fruiting in summer 165 b. Holding fruit into the winter months . . . 166 c. Birds attracted by fruits 166 E — Producing fruit which attracts birds away from other fruits 167 F — Producing fruit which often makes the plant unde- sirable in landscape planting 167 xiv CONTENTS CHAPTER PA* 5 * XXI. Trees and Shrubs Bearing Coloured Twigs 168 XXII. Plants Valuable Because of the Autumn Colouration of the Leaves 171 A — Early 173 B — Medium 173 C— Late 173 a. Coloured foliage. . . 174 b. Green foliage 174 XXIII. Fast-Growing Types Valuable for Producing Screen Effects 176 A — Trees 177 B— Shrubs 177 XXIV. Plants Adapted to Various Types of Soil Conditions . . 178 A — Boggy and peaty soils 179 a. Boggy situations 180 b. Peaty situations 181 B — Light, sandy soils 181 a. Trees 181 b. Shrubs 181 c. Vines 182 C — Heavy types of soils 182 a. Trees 182 b. Shrubs 182 c. Vines 183 D — Trees tolerant of alkali soils 183 E — Drought-resisting plants 183 XXV. Plants for Exposed Lake Front and River Conditions. . 185 A — Trees 186 B— Shrubs 187 C— Vines . . . * 187 XXVI. Trees and Shrubs for Seaside Planting 188 A — Plants hardy under the severe exposure of the North Atlantic Coast . 189 a. Deciduous trees 189 b. Conifers 190 c. Shrubs 190 B — Plants hardy in the less severe seaside exposures. 190 a. Deciduous trees 19 1 b. Conifers I9 1 c. Shrubs 191 XXVII. Plants for Partially Shaded Locations 192 CONTENTS xv CHAPTER PAGE XXVIII. Plants for Undergrowth Planting in Wooded Areas . . 194 A — Shrubs and small trees 196 B — Ground-cover plants 197 XXIX. Plants for Ground Cover 199 A — Moist locations . 203 B — Dry locations 204 C — Shady locations 205 D — Ferns 205 a. Dry, shady places 206 b. Moist, shady places 206 E — Embankments and rocky slopes 206 a. Shrubs 206 b. Perennials 207 c. Vines 207 F — Small-flowering and foliage plants for crevices be- tween stepping-stones and for paved terrace areas 208 G — Perennials adapted to open sunny exposures . . 208 H — Ground cover among rhododendrons and azaleas. 209 I — Ground cover among roses 210 XXX. Game Cover Plants 211 A — Foliage, buds, and blossoms (Spring cover) . . 212 B — Nuts or seeds (Autumn cover) 212 XXXI. Perennials for Different Purposes 214 A — Hardy perennials for general use 221 B — Perennials according to colour and season. . . 222 a. Perennials for spring — purple, lavender, or blue flowers 222 b. Perennials for spring — white flowers .... 222 c. Perennials for spring — pink to crimson flowers . 223 d. Perennials for spring — yellow to orange flowers. 223 e. Perennials for summer — purple, lavender, or blue flowers 224 f. Perennials for summer — white flowers . . . 224 g. Perennials for summer — pink to crimson flowers 225 h. Perennials for summer — yellow to orange flowers 225 i. Perennials for autumn — purple, lavender, or blue flowers 226 j. Perennials for autumn — white flowers . . . 226 k. Perennials for autumn — pink to crimson flowers 226 1. Perennials for autumn — yellow to orange flowers 227 XVI CONTENTS CHAPTER PAC8 C — Perennials for naturalizing in wild garden areas . 227 a. Tall types 227 b. Low types 228 D — Perennials for long flowering period .... 228 E — Perennials seldom used in small, refined, formal gardens 229 F — Perennials to supply "perpetual bloom" . . . 230 G — Perennials for use among peonies 230 H — Perennials for good blooming combinations . . 231 I — Perennials valuable for cut flowers 232 J — Perennials which should be treated as biennials . 233 K — Perennials to be transplanted frequently. . . 233 a. To be divided every two years 233 b. To be divided every three years 233 c. To be divided each year 234 L — Perennials for water planting 234 a. Deep water 234 b. Shallow water 234 c. Land at the water-side 234 M — Perennials for planting against the shrub border 235 N — Perennials for attracting humming birds . . . 236 XXXII. Annuals 237 A — Annuals especially valuable for cut flowers . . 239 B — Annuals to be sown for ground cover . . . . 240 C — Annuals which are difficult to transplant success- fully 241 D — Annuals which should be planted in several sow- ings to insure a succession of bloom .... 241 E — Annuals to be started indoors in order to produce good bloom before frost 242 F — Annual vines 242 a. Delicate foliage 242 b. Heavy foliage 242 G — Annuals for carpet bedding 243 H — Annuals for design bedding 245 XXXIII. Horticultural Varieties, Select List of 247 A — Lilacs 249 B — Peonies 250 C — Small flowering trees 250 CONTENTS xvii CHAPTER PAGB D — Roses 251 a. Best climbing roses 251 b. Hardiest garden roses 251 1. Hybrid perpetual, crimson and red . . . 251 2. Hybrid perpetual, pink 251 3. Hybrid perpetual, white 251 4. Yellow 251 5. Moss 251 c. Best hybrid tea roses 251 E — Broad-leaved evergreens 252 a. Rhododendrons and azaleas 252 b. Other broad-leaved evergreens 252 F — Lilies 253 a. List of lilies 253 b. Easy culture in garden soil 256 c. Moist and boggy locations 256 d. Calcareous soil 257 e. Open sun 257 f. Undergrowth 257 g. Sandy or dry soils 257 h. Clay soil 257 i. Shady locations 257 XXXIV. Vines .258 A — Flowering 260 B — Use on brick, stone, and masonry 260 C — Climbing habit and heavy foliage 260 D — Fruiting 261 E — Fast-growing 261 XXXV. Window Boxes and Hanging Baskets 262 A — Window boxes 264 a. South or west exposure 264 b. East exposure 264 c. North exposure 265 B — Hanging baskets 265 a. Vine-like habit 265 b. Upright habit and good flowers 266 c. Upright habit and good foliage 266 XXXVI. Bulbs 267 A — Refined lawn and garden areas 270 B — Naturalizing in woodland and wild gardens . . 270 C — Narcissi for different locations 271 XV111 c«Am» CONTENTS PAGB D — Tulip combinations "... 271 a. Single 271 b. Double 272 c. Cottage 272 d. Darwin 272 E — Best varieties for forcing 273 a. Forcing in soil 273 b. Forcing in water 274 XXXVII. Fragrant Plants 275 A — Fragrant flowers 275 a. Shrubs 275 b. Trees 276 c. Perennials 276 B — Fragrant leaves 277 a. Trees and shrubs 277 b. Perennials 277 XXXVIII. Poisonous Plants 278 A — Internally poisonous 279 B — Skin irritants 280 C — Causing hay fever 280 XXXIX. Ornamental Plants Subject to Disease and Insect Pests . 282 XL. Plants Difficult to Transplant and Those Adapted for Transplanting at Specific Seasons of the Year . . . 286 A — Plants which should be transplanted in autumn . 289 B — Plants which should be transplanted in spring . 289 C — Plants which are transplanted with little success. 290 a. Plants to be rarely if ever transplanted . . . 290 b. Plants which recover slowly from the operation of transplanting 290 XLI. Shrubs for Forcing in Water in Early Spring .... 292 XLII. Pruning Lists ^ 294 A — Shrubs needing complete pruning 296 a. Spring and early summer flowering .... 296 b. Late summer and fall flowering 297 B — Shrubs needing removal of old wood only. . . 297 a. Summer pruning 297 b. Winter pruning 297 C — Trees which require little or no pruning . . 298 D — Evergreens that should be pruned in May orjune 298 E — Evergreens that may be pruned at any time. . 298 CBAPHft XLIII XLIV. CONTENTS xIx Plants for Florida "™ A— Windbreaks .......[[ 300 B— Trees for street and specimen planting . . ! 301 a. Northern list b. Southern list C — Vines .... T . 302 a. Lattices and wire fences - 02 b. Masonry walls .. D — Shrubs with attractive fruit. . , ni E -H«fe* : : : : 2 a. Middle and southern Florida >, r b. Northern Florida - Q - F— Flowering shrubs for middle and southern Florida ioc a. White flowers * b. Pink flowers -^ c. Yellow flowers - Q £ d. Red flowers e. Purple and blue flowers 307 G — Ground-cover plants - Q - H — Shrubs for shady conditions * g I — Herbaceous plants - Q g J — Plants for seashore planting .310 a. Trees b. Shrubs c Vines * Plants for Minnesota . . Atr 3 12 A— Hedges a. Barriers b. Windbreaks - n B — Ground cover ....- a. Shrubs in b. Vines . . . 314 C— Plants valuable for autumn colouration of leaves. 3 14 a - Early b. Medium ... D — Heavy, formal effects -,, E — Street trees - j r a. Entirely hardy under all conditions . . . .315 b. Which should be selected with a thorough knowl- edge of the conditions under which they are to be used -j- XX CONTENTS CHAPTER PAC» F — Evergreens most used 315 G — Not hardy in Minnesota 316 XLV. Plants for South Atlantic States 318 A — Ground cover 319 a. Moist places 319 b. Dry places 319 B — Hedges 320 a. Holding leaves throughout winter 320 b. Not holding leaves throughout winter . . . 321 C — Trees for street planting 321 D — Evergreens most used 322 E — Formal effects 322 F — Border planting 323 a. Low-growing deciduous shrubs 323 b. Low-growing evergreen shrubs 324 c. Medium-growing deciduous shrubs .... 325 d. Medium-growing evergreen shrubs . . . .326 G — Fruit valuable for its colour effects 327 H — Specimen trees and shrubs 327 a. Trees 327 b. Shrubs 329 I — Perennials for gardens and cut flowers . . . .329 J — Perennials for naturalizing in wild gardens . . 330 K — Plants which are commonly and freely used in the south but are not hardy farther north . . . . 331 a. Trees 331 b. Shrubs 332 L — Vines for the south 332 XL VI. Plants for Use on the Oregon and Washington Coastal Plain 334 A— Hedges 335 a. Deciduous 335 b. Evergreen 335 B — Plants for ground cover 335 a. Open sun 336 b. Shade 336 C — Plants for border planting 336 a. Refined lawn masses 337 b. Native and collected plants 337 D — Street and avenue planting 337 E — Plants for heavily shaded locations . . . . 337 CONTENTS xxi PAGE F — Plants valuable for autumn colouration of leaves 338 G — Vines 338 H — Evergreens most used 339 a. Conifers 339 b. Broad-leaved 339 Bibliography 343 Glossary 355 Index „ 378 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TLAT facb I. The scarlet thorns planted on both sides of the wall on either side of the gate make an excellent frame for this architectural detail at the garden entrance Frontispiece II. This map shows those portions of the United States which because of climatic environment and geographic location possess similar planting seasons. Investigation of zones of similar planting seasons has, to date, not provided complete information to the landscape architect in his planting work. For supplementary information refer to Plate No. Ill on Page 14. (In colour) 6 III. Achart to aid in determining the most favourable period for transplanting, and for seeding of lawns in various sections of the United States. Note the long winter periods of the Northern Zones and the continuous planting seasons of the Southern Zones. It is of great importance to be able to plan ahead and to order plants for delivery at the proper time for any section of the country. These are average seasons resulting from observations of normal seasons during a period of years. For supple- mentary information refer to Plate No. II on Page 6 14 IV. The hedge which may look unkept and ragged if not pruned will in the hands of the skilled gardener assume almost any degree of refined out- line. These photographs show one of our most desirable hedge plants, the Japanese privet (Ligustrum ibota) 20 V. The correct pruning of trees and shrubs is a great factor in the successful maintenance of landscape plantings. These diagrammatic drawings together with the explanations on the opposite page illustrate correct and incorrect methods of pruning 24 VI. A knowledge of the various operations involved in the work of correctly transplanting plants is essential for their subsequent normal develop- ment. These diagrammatic drawings accompanied by the explanation on the opposite page illustrate various transplanting operations. . . 34 VII. Immediately after transplanting, the trunk of every large tree should be protected with a covering of burlap (Fig. B) which prevents excessive drying out and consequent cracking and loosening of the bark (Fig. A). This protection is especially necessary during the warmer summer months 4° VIII. To most of us in the northern states the method of seeding a lawn is familiar, but the method of making lawns in southern states by planting Bermuda grass is little known. In these photographs small clumps of Bermuda grass are being planted in "hills" staggered at intervals ranging from eighteen inches to thirty inches. The thicker the planting the more quickly a mat of turf can be developed 41 xxiii XXIV LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PLATB PAGE IX. It is important to know the depth, distance apart, and time of the year at which different kinds of bulbs should be planted. Many disappoint- ing flower effects are the result of violating these rules with reference to depth, distance apart, and time of planting 46 X. Trees are given winter protection both against injury from sun-scald and against injury from severe wind and changing temperature condi- tions. This photograph shows one method of protecting hemlocks against the sun's rays 62 XI. The list of evergreens adapted to soil and to climatic conditions of the middle west, and valuable for low, refined mass plantings is limited. The upper photograph shows an effect produced by the use of dwarf yew, Pfitzer's and tamarisk-leaved junipers, Mugho pines and Japanese spurge edging. The lower photograph shows the effectiveness of masses of low, refined evergreens against massive architecture 63 XII. Under climatic and soil conditions favourable to their growth evergreens will produce a landscape picture incapable of reproduction through the use of deciduous plants. This photograph shows an effective use, under Long Island conditions, of arborvitae, red cedars, junipers, rhododen- dron, and yews as a background for a refined, formal pool .... 78 XIII. Carefully selected and planted trees for avenue and street planting provide a uniform and a symmetrical effect together with the inviting shade, all of which are so essential to the standards of modern residential districts 79 XIV. The list of trees and shrubs which thrive in the congested city districts where soil conditions are poor and the air is polluted with smoke and dust is limited to a few kinds, of which the tree of heaven, locust, and catalpa are typical 94 XV. An interesting use of hedges to frame one side of the refined formal garden. Japanese quince on the left side of the walk. Japanese bar- berry against the right side accented with sheared retinosporas, and buttresses of Japanese quince and Amoor River privet on the extreme left against the vine-covered wall, form the features of this compo- sition 95 XVI. Plume-like cypress, naturally a small tree, can be maintained as a com- pact and a very formal low hedge if given plenty of skillful pruning and protection in winter no XVII. The Canadian hemlock, when grown from the northern seed and when well established, forms one of the best windbreaks and barriers for the protection of the garden or orchard wherever drifting snow must be over- come and seclusion also attained no XVIII. Upon a spacious lawn effective use can occasionally be made of trees and shrubs possessing symmetrical habits of growths and fine flowering and fruiting qualities. The deutzia is a shrub with these capabilities, but it is seldom seen as a specimen plant. Restraint, however, must be observed and a dotted effect avoided 1 10 XIX. The extended lawn area often requires specimen trees to lend scale and colour to the picture, and it also offers opportunity to display the natural beauty of many of our fine specimen trees ill LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXV XX. XXI. XXII. XXIII. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. XXVII. XXVIII. XXIX. XXX. An effective combination of stone work and of plantings in an informal lawn area. Varieties of stonecrop, moss pinks, and Scotch pinks lend charm to an otherwise uninteresting mass of stone. (See Plate No. LIII, Page 334, for lily planting shown in background of this picture.) 126 An uninteresting rocky slope often can be turned into an attractive landscape feature through the careful selection and planting of plants adapted to light, sandy soils. This slope is covered with a grouping of hardy pinks, evergreen candytuft, saxifrage, and tufted pansy . 127 To develop a successful rock garden, not only must the stones be well placed, but the plants must be selected to produce an effect in keeping with the scale of the garden; otherwise the effect will be that of a collection of stones which overpower the garden picture, as shown above l 4 2 To few of us does the term "wall garden" convey a definite im- pression. Yet how frequently the opportunity comes, even in a small way, to change a wall of rock to a wall of flowers and foliage. In this photograph we see Scotch pinks, creeping phlox, golden tuft, tunica, and other similar plants used to excellent advantage . . 143 An interior view of a pleached allee eight years after transplanting. Note the spacing of the larger plants of the European cork maple at intervals of three feet, with "fillers" between each two of the larger trees. Compare with Plate No. XXVII on Page 175 for the ex- terior view. Openings have been cut in the top of this allee to pro- duce interesting spots of sunlight on the walk 158 An excellent illustration of pleasing garden formality filled with box- wood hedges, as edgings for carpet plantings of Japanese spurge, and accented with specimens of California privet neatly trimmed in a pyramidal form to represent boxwood i?9 The use of bay trees in tubs is required in many of the northern gar- dens to produce accent points often at spots where no permanent plant can be planted in the ground. These trees are stored in cool green- houses during the winter months 174 A pleached allee may form not only a most interesting feature as shown on Plate No. XXIV, Page 158, but this one serves as a solid screen between the lawn area and the service buildings .... 175 This open allee is framed on either side by a solid row of closely sheared thorn trees. Its formal lines are softened by the row of pink- flowering dogwoods which add a charm of flowers in early spring and of fruit in the late fall. Thorns planted four to five feet apart and dogwoods eight feet apart. Width between rows of thorns twenty- two feet and between rows of dogwoods nine to ten feet. (See ex- planation of measurementsx)n Page 144) 19° An open allee twelve feet wide and eight hundred feet long, developed by the use of white birch planted three to four feet apart in each row. For a permanent allee of this type the birch is not ideal because of its short-lived characteristics and susceptibility to borer. Thorns or the European beech would be preferable I9 1 A group of Japanese snowball, producing flowers in spring soon after the leaves appear, adds much to the attractiveness of a landscape picture 20 ° XXVI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS rLATB •■*«■ XXXI. It is quite important in the planting of the spring garden that the designer should know those shrubs which produce flowers before the leaves appear, similar to the Carolina azalea (B), and those early-flowering shrubs which produce flowers and leaves at the same time, similar to the bladder-nut (A). (In colour) 214 XXXII. In the permanent planting no flowering tree or shrub deserves more favourable consideration than the fine type of Scheidecker's semi- double rose-flowering crab illustrated above 222 XXXIII. As a specimen flowering plant for early spring effect the Japanese weeping rose-flowered cherry is extremely interesting, covered always before the leaves appear with an abundance of rose-pink flowers 223 XXXIV. It is a source of much satisfaction to the plant designer to know that shrubs which are carefully selected for the colour of their flowers may produce very effective colour combinations. This plate shows the St. John's wort (A) in combination with the sweet- scented buddleia (B). (In colour) 230 XXXV. The average person who has not become interested in the colour effects produced by the fruits of our common trees and shrubs can hardly appreciate the intense colour display of the American bitter- sweet (A), the Washington thorn (B), and the white fringe (C). (In colour.) 230 XXXVI. The garden designer must always bear in mind that many of our shrubs which produce very uninteresting flowers are the ones which produce our most attractive fruiting effects. The variation in colours of the fruits ranges from the pure white of the snowberry (A) through the purple and porcelain blue of the beauty fruit (C) to the vivid reds of which the Japanese bush cranberry (B) is typical. (In colour) 230 XXXVII. Not only because of the interesting colour of its fruit in combination with the fruit of other shrubs, but because of the size and abundance of its fruit, the snowberry is one of our conspicuous and valuable shrubs 238 XXXVIII. During the winter months when there is little else in the shrub border to attract attention, the vivid colours of the twigs of many of our shrubs present interesting spots of colour against the back- ground of evergreens or snow. (A) — red-twigged dogwood; (B) — green-stemmed dogwood; (C) — red birch; (D) — golden-twigged osier; (E) — grey dogwood; (F)— striped maple. (In colour) . . 246 XXXIX. What is more beautiful in the landscape than the intensely brilliant colours of the autumn foliage of many of our trees and shrubs? More plants should be used for the value of their autumn foliage effect. (A) — burning bush; (B) — dark green golden bell; (C) — maple-leaved viburnum; (D) — sassafras; (E) — maidenhair tree; (F) — sourwood. (In colour) 247 XL. In solving the difficult planting problems on exposed lake fronts and river fronts there is no plant in the limited list of adaptable types to excel the beach-plum 254 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXVll F1ATI taoh XLI. The problem of developing desirable undergrowth plantings in wooded areas requires much study of plants as nature places them. The rhododendron, except in exposed locations, is "happy" in wood- land areas where soil conditions meet the root requirements . . . 255 XLII. In open sunny exposures on sandy or light loam soil there is no ground cover which surpasses the Japanese spurge in richness of colour or interesting texture of foliage, especially in combination with plantings of evergreens 270 XLIII. Our garden steps can be made a part of the flower garden, and not the usual cold and uninviting mass of stone or brick, by a well- designed grouping of plants adapted for growth in the earth crevices among the rocks. Note the use of candytuft, ground phlox, moss pinks, varieties of stonecrops, and rock cress 271 XLIV. The large garden filled with perennials usually consists of larger groups of flowering perennials which produce masses of colour during their period of bloom. Iris, phlox, hollyhocks, gladioli, larkspur, and anemone produce the more important flower effects in this garden 286 XLV. A cut-flower garden; the central part filled with annuals and the outer border of perennials serving as a frame with shrubs in the extreme background. A garden of this kind can have a succession of bloom throughout the flowering season 287 XLVI. Many of our common garden perennials possess the possibilities to produce very interesting colour effects through the colour combina- tions of the flowers. (A) — Italian alkanet; (B) — hardy marguerite. (In colour) 294 XL VII. During the early spring no woodland wild garden is complete without its quota of miliums, grape hyacinth, and hepatica which grow lux- uriantly if happily surrounded by conditions of soil and shade . . 302 XLVIII. Among those plants which become easily established in the wild garden there is none the flower effect of which excels the Japanese windflower during the late summer 3°3 XLIX. In the selection of perennials for the garden not only should the possibilities of interesting colour combinations in the flower effects be observed, but also the possibilities for interesting texture of foliage. (A) — larkspur; (B) — lemon lily (commonly called day lily). (In colour) 3*° L. A few water-lilies may enhance a picture such as the above, but a proper restraint in their use and control is always desirable . . . 318 LI. The artificial lake or pond may receive a natural effect if the banks near the water's edge are planted with groups of water-loving plants. In this picture one sees the marsh-mallow, day-lily, iris, plantain- lily, loosestrife, plume grass, and showy sedum successfully used. . 319 LII. There are those who much prefer to develop their formal flower garden picture entirely by the use of annuals. This garden which is not for a source of cut flowers is filled with heliotrope, yellow tulip poppy, snapdragon, pentstemon, annual carnation, candytuft, and others not recognizable from this picture _•.__• * 334 XXVI 11 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TLATB PAGE LIU. An informal planting of Scotch pines and Mugho pines may be ac- cented by the use of a few specimens of lilies to brighten the landscape picture as well as to serve as a background for the flowering effect of the lilies 334 LIV. The knotweed is not only one of the most rapid-growing vines, but its abundance of delicate white flowers and its long-blooming period make it valuable for many locations on the lattice framework. A — First summer after transplanting; B — Second summer after trans- Panting 334 LV. One of the best vines for use on masonry walls is the Boston ivy, but no vine should be allowed to overpower fine architectural details. This illustration also shows a perfectly developed European beech hedge (ten years old) planted in a single row with plants eighteen inches apart 335 LVI. A pleasing combination of the vigorous climbing wisteria used to- gether with window boxes filled with periwinkle to relieve the heavy and otherwise bare architectural effect 350 LVII. Nasturtiums, marigolds, English ivy, periwinkle, and petunias make a window box foliage and flower effect which adds greatly to the attrac- tiveness of any home 350 LVIII. During the months of April and May the flower garden filled with refined types of tulips carefully arranged to produce masses of colour is the equal of the garden at any other month of the growing season. This garden is filled with the tall types of Darwin tulips. . . . 350 LLX. With the first touch of spring the crocus begins to bloom upon the lawn. This plant can adapt itself either to the refined lawn area or to the woodland and field areas 351 LX. There is always an opportunity, on every larger estate, for the natural- izing of bulbs. Poet's narcissus is quite happy in a wild garden or field environment 366 LXI. Throughout the southern states the creeping fig is one of the most desirable vines for growth on masonry walls. It develops interesting foliage of a fine texture and is a vigorous grower and compares favour- ably with the Lowe's Boston ivy so successfully used in the northern states 367 LXII. Used as a tree for screen effects, specimen planting, or hedges, the Australian pine is throughout southern Florida one of the most freely used plants 374 LXIII. The yellow allamanda desirable because of its heavy foliage, and be- cause of its beautiful yellow flowers, is frequently neglected for use in Florida plantings as a shrub or a vine 375 PART I GENERAL PLANTING SUGGESTIONS THE COMPLETE GARDEN CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION The Method of Treatment. The lists of plants do not represent a complete and thoroughly exhaustive study of the subject. The general discussions and groupings will provide persons interested in the use of plant materials with essential facts, in a compact form, con- cerning the appropriate use of the more permanent species of trees, shrubs, vines, perennials, annuals, and bulbs. The study of plants and their specific uses in landscape planting can to some extent be analyzed and tabulated for reference purposes in the same way that plants are grouped for purposes of identification. This study, however, is not based entirely upon scientific facts, and therefore is subject to personal points of view, and many times no hard and fast line can be drawn which will place any one plant in one list in preference to the possibility of placing it in some other list. The Arrangement of the Material. At the beginning of each main group, and at the beginning of each sub-heading under the main groups, there is a short discussion of the fundamental principles governing that particular type of classification of plants for landscape uses. This discussion will be of some assistance by way of enabling the reader properly to consult the lists contained under these headings. A number of chapters are included in this discussion, devoted to the following subjects: Pruning, Planting Seasons, Planting and Trans- planting, Maintenance, Winter Protection and Mulching, Lawns, Selection and Planting of Bulbs. The author feels that there should be in a book of this kind a concise statement of the fundamental prin- ciples which govern work in this field of Landscape Plantings. These chapters are in no way a complete discussion of these subjects. They are more in the form of instructions and specifications which will serve 3 4 THE COMPLETE GARDEN as a guide in the right direction. For further and more complete information on these subjects reference should be made to the Bibli- ography (Pages 343 to 351), both of articles and of books, contained in the Appendix to this volume. The author has compiled a bibliography of articles and books which are of distinct value to the reader. But there are many other articles and books, of great interest and value to readers, some of which probably have escaped the author's attention and should be included in this list. This list will be revised from time to time. The Use of the Index. This book is indexed very completely and in detail and has a reference both to pages and to groups. The reader will note that the book has been paged in the usual manner, and also that on each page the groups have been alphabetically ar- ranged for the purpose of making it more easy to consult information as referred to by the Table of Contents and by the Group Index. As a matter of fact, this Index is almost equally as valuable as the complete list of plants under each of the various groups. By means of this Index the student who is familiar with some plant and wishes to find a proper use for it can readily ascertain the use or uses to which the plant is adapted. The Purpose of the Illustrations. A number of photographs and drawings have been introduced throughout this volume. These photographs are illustrative of various group ideas covering uses of plants. Words, however carefully selected, often cannot be a literal interpretation of an idea, whereas a photograph immediately conveys the definite idea which cannot be reproduced in words. These il- lustrations have been selected, so far as possible, to illustrate the main features which justify the making of an individual group for reference purposes. It is hoped that they may for that reason prove to be of great value. Method of Using the Book. Theoretically, a treatise on any sub- ject should be so simplified that to the average reader the method of using it is self-evident. However, a few suggestions covering the methods of consulting the information in this volume may not be amiss. The Table of Contents, which is a complete compilation of all the general information in this volume, is arranged with INTRODUCTION 5 many larger and more important headings to include the many minor headings. It is here that the reader can easily find reference to lists of plants which are valuable for specific uses by exactly the inverse process that he can find from the Index a reference to the different purposes for which an individual plant may be used. To the reader who is seeking to find a list of plants which can be used for a specific purpose, first, the Table of Contents and the List of Illustrations are of direct and primary value. To the reader who is seeking to find for what specific uses any plant may be adapted, secondly, the Index to pages and groups of plants is of greatest importance. To the reader who wishes to go farther into the subject of plant study, as covered by various phases of landscape work, thirdly, the Bibliography is the one reference which will be of value. The complete glossary containing a complete list of definitions covering terms frequently used by landscape architects is of real value in defining such terms. The criticism may be raised by some who consult a volume of this kind that in reality no definite line can be drawn between the uses of some plants for one purpose or for another purpose. This is admittedly a fact. It will be quite evident from a short study of the Index that many plants frequently have a distinct and definite value as adapted to different purposes. Range of Material Covered. While the range of material covered by the lists is sufficient to meet the requirements of the average property holder, the lists may be supplemented by additional and unusual varieties which, if selected, should be given unusual care. The information in this book has been compiled to cover the range of material which is adapted for use generally throughout the following portions of the United States: The North Atlantic States, the Great Lakes Region, the Central States as far west as the Missouri River and as far south as Arkansas. No lists have been compiled for the Great Plains and the Rocky Mountain States, but special lists have been compiled for the Atlantic Coastal Plain from Virginia to Mississippi; also for the Peninsula of Florida and for the region within a radius of one hundred and fifty miles from the Twin Cities. For the Pacific Coast, lists have been prepared for the Oregon-Washington Coastal Plain. It should be borne in mind that plants which develop one type of growth in a northern climate will develop another type of growth, because of the longer growing season, in a southern climate. 6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN The Range of Plant Adaptation in General. After studying a compilation of this kind the great range of plant adaptations becomes evident. There is a large group of materials which are hardy under almost all conditions. There are many other types of material, how- ever, too numerous to mention in detail, which are adapted only to specific sections of the country. The Adaptation of Evergreens in Particular. The question of the adaptation of evergreens is perhaps the one which may cause the most serious discussion. Evergreens are a group of plants which possess widely varying characteristics, especially of hardiness under different climatic conditions. The evergreens which will flourish in the humid and less severe atmosphere of Long Island will not grow through the windy regions of the Middle West, nor in the extreme exposure of the water-front conditions of the North Atlantic and the Great Lakes Region. Neither will evergreens which flourish in the sandy soils of Michigan grow upon the clay soils of the Middle Western States. Therefore, the question of evergreens has been carefully considered, and an attempt has been made to differentiate the groups and the require- ments of each. This subdividing of evergreens for various locations is based entirely upon the normal protection. Many evergreens, as with other plants, will thrive under abnormal conditions if they are nursed and protected during the severe winter months. On the other hand, many evergreens which will withstand the exposures of winter conditions will not continue to thrive when placed in the clayey soils of some of our Middle Western States, where they are subjected to the severe baking and drying out of these soils during the summer months. Method of Grouping Plants. The question of whether plants for landscape use should be grouped according to height or according to other characteristics, such as season of bloom, character of growth, soil adaptations, etc., is one that has been discussed to a considerable extent. The writer feels that in the selection of plants as a part of any landscape design, the question of height is of secondary consideration as compared with the natural characteristics and adaptations of the stock under consideration. The selection of plants for specific pur- poses such as background planting, undergrowth planting, windbreaks, ground cover, etc., implies that, in addition to other important char- acteristics of hardiness, compactness, and qualities of fruiting and J 7. a. 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H h h h h rt 4-1 ^ M 4J o ; J > u & 09 -3 c rt c u c 0) CU -CT3 4-1 u E o rt ^U 3 C _ O I- c C > -T3 S • — G O rt S ^ c a en C CO % <- a u ^ H?"a C3p-G en Q S-g . §«3S ^ o"> C tj en O G oj 4-1 O c en i-i.G W O <. en ii « C M > g.S 6; &h -E < < [jl, tL, [in (J-c C -rT 3 — « rt ^a ra o ._« S rt co •- « - u rt rt rt aj c c o S -3 CO 'Sh .S rt rt C E^.l- o c2ph B C oi O " a , t— ( " "J CJ ^4/ 4-< CJ toO t- [in rt 8 3^1 2-^ „ r -J un s a~ « rt ci ~< ^ W r- e rt rt rt 2 c O O rt CQHPh 30 o o. o COC/2CO C B B :s"E^ rt sj ^.b PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS D K O * -O „ 3 i> *i c 5 -a •— ^3 c o fcCO 6,3 S 5 t « = 2 o"o. E a. tU C co - 5 -O 2 co <" «J -M---T3 B**h _C 3 W O j- 1 rt J= ., S u. 4_l _K Q (JJ u 33 o bit: ■*> M *J O 2 co o £ +J 4J TJ I! 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The reasons for pruning are: (i) To secure a desired form or height of the plant; (2) To remove injured, diseased, or dead branches; (3) To renovate or rejuvenate old plants; (4) To maintain a balance between root growth and top growth (as shown in the operations of transplanting); (5) To encourage the production of an abundance of flowers; (6) To encourage the production of a few large flowers; (7) To improve or modify the natural form of the plant for some specific reason such as in topiary work and hedge work. Pruning, however, is only a phase in the care of plants and must be accompanied by constant good cultivation, feeding, and management of plants. It is only through the process of intelligent pruning that shrubs especially can be maintained in a definite and natural condi- tion of growth and also kept at a correct height to avoid in many instances the out-growing or over-powering of the design for which they were selected to become a part. Many incorrect ideas have be- come prevalent concerning the process of pruning, and the application of these incorrect methods often causes a slowing up or incorrect development not only in the growing habits of the shrubs but in the quality and the quantity of the flowers produced. Precautions to Observe. Pruning should be done only with a definite ideal and after arranging an intelligent program. No set rules can be offered. Climatic conditions may cause rules correct in one locality to prove valueless in another, and plants of the same species often vary in their habit of growth at different ages, and must be pruned accordingly. Pruning should be entrusted only to a careful workman. It is too common practice in pruning to have shrubs and trees with all the tips lightly snipped off with regularity; or to have trees with the main and lateral branches ruthlessly lopped PRUNING 19 off. The natural habit of the plant should be known and this form preserved when removing any wood. This fact should always be kept in mind except in the case of shrubs or trees which are to be trained in artificial shapes. Results From Pruning. Pruning always arrests but does not permanently change the natural habits and growth of a plant. It often causes the plant to assume temporarily another form than it would naturally assume. Pruned plants constantly struggle to return to their natural habit, and when pruning has been undertaken for a specific purpose it should be continued throughout the life of the plant so long as that purpose is desirable. Root pruning tends to reduce wood production and hence to in- crease fruit and flower production. Top pruning favours wood pro- duction and thus more top is produced by the seemingly contrary process of cutting it off. In the case of transplanted stock tops are cut back to compensate for the roots that are lost in moving. Re- moval of excess top growth insures to the remaining parts of the plant more nourishment, with subsequent better development, and it also decreases the area of leaf surface and the consequent evaporation of stored-up moisture before the roots begin functioning in the new loca- tion. Tools and Wound Dressings. Pruning shears, pruning knives, and hand saws are the best tools to use. Pole saws and hooks should be avoided as they leave ragged wounds, and pole pruners should be used only for small twigs. Never use double edge saws as they are more apt, in the hands of a careless workman, to injure the tree. A ladder will be required for the larger trees and a block and ropes for removing limbs that are near wires or that might injure property. For dressing wounds gas tar and liquid asphaltum have proven the most satisfactory. They hinder healing the least of the common dressings and are the most durable, adhesive, and antiseptic. Coal tar and pine tar seem to be injurious and white lead apparently has no injurious or antiseptic effect. Dressings give only physical protection and cannot hasten healing, which takes place through the activity of the plant itself. Trees — Top Pruning. Street trees should be pruned so that 20 THE COMPLETE GARDEN branches will not interfere with pedestrians or vehicles. The roots of street trees are more confined than those of other trees and they re- quire top pruning to balance with the root system. Pruning should aim to preserve the natural habit of the trees; but they should also be kept symmetrical in form. If the tops become too thick and ex- clude too much light they should be thinned out. Main laterals, however, must not be disturbed, but rather the shoots that spring from these main laterals should be removed. Specimen trees on lawns require little pruning except to prevent bad crotches (which if left might cause splitting), to shorten branches which may affect the symmetry of the tree, to remove dead wood, and sometimes to remove (as in the case of maples and pin oaks) some of the finer interior branches in order to give more "character" to the tree. It is generally best to do the heavy cutting in winter, while the trees are dormant. Pruning in early spring or summer may cause the tree to "bleed," with a consequent check to the root system from the loss of food. This is especially true of maples. One advantage, how- ever, of spring or summer trimming is that the tree will recover more quickly and start to heal the wound, which would be impossible during the winter season. If trees are pruned in winter the " shaping up " and removal of small pieces of dead wood should be done after the leaves appear at which time symmetry can be better judged and all dead branches can be more easily discovered. To assure the least possible injury from exposure to climatic conditions winter pruning, if neces- sary, should be delayed until the danger from the more severe winter conditions is past. Broken and diseased limbs must always be removed, and secondary growth and suckers cut, to open the centre of the tree to the sun and air. When limbs are pruned they should be cut back to a bud that will grow outward. When larger branches are entirely removed, the cut should be made at the base of the branch and parallel to the tree trunk. No stump at all should be left, and care should first be taken to under- cut amply on all heavy limbs so that when the cut on the upper side is completed the branch will not split the bark from the trunk. All other cuts, such as removing portions of branches, should be made perpendicular to the axis of the branch which is being shortened. The cut should always be clean, with no ragged edges left (See Plate V). Never cut back the leader on trees that are excurrent, such as oaks, j-?jk3HI «Wp .jfflfci, jawhH • fjgjBfcr^B H^j|8 '■ Plate IV. The hedge which may look imkept and ragged if not pruned, will in the hands of the skilled gardener assume almost any degree of refined outline. These photographs show one of our most desirable hedge plants, the Japanese privet (Ligustrum ibota). (See Chapter III) UNIVER Hr Of ILLINOIS URBANA PRUNING 21 birches, spruces, and sugar maples. If the leader is killed it is often possible to train the best lateral available as a substitute. This may be done by binding the lateral to a pole and tying with raffia. If the tree is weakened or is dying, severe pruning will often aid in offsetting the trouble and may help the tree to recover its vigour. Many trees and shrubs, as poplars, soft maples, the tree of heaven, box elders, hydrangeas, and sumacs will stand very heavy pruning and recover rapidly. Oaks, elms, and flowering dogwoods should be pruned only as corrective measures and not to check growth. During the progress of construction work in the neighbourhood of fine trees or shrubs some protection should be afforded, either by the erection of a stout fence or a stout wooden framework. Root Pruning. Root pruning serves to check the growth of a tree and to encourage lateral or secondary growth of the roots. When a plant has a slow or a weak-growing top grafted upon a vigor- ous root stock, root pruning is often used advantageously to stop too great a growth of the stock. Root pruning should be done before the weather becomes too cold in the fall. If this pruning is delayed till very late no start in healing the cuts will be made before spring, and meanwhile decay will set in'. The process of root pruning to assist in the successful transplanting of trees- is effected by excavating a narrow trench around the tree encircling a ball of earth (Usually six to eight feet in diameter) (See Plate VI-C-i) which can be handled with a tree machine. In this way one-half to two-thirds of the large roots are severed. The trench is filled with loam, and during the remainder of the growing season a mass of new fibrous roots form, which readily come to the aid of the tree when transplanted to its new location (See Planting and Transplanting, Page 42). All trees should be top pruned when transplanted. This is done to offset the loss of root system by removing a portion of the top. A general rule is to remove four-fifths of the current year's growth and one-eighth of the older branches. Do not cut back main laterals or leaders so as to leave large stubs, for with such pruning the stubs will rot and spoil the tree. Trees with ample fibrous roots, such as maples and elms, are easier to move successfully than trees with few roots, or with tap roots, such as magnolias, tulips, gums, and nut trees. It is therefore necessary to prune the tops more heavily on transplanted stock with sparse root 22 THE COMPLETE GARDEN systems. On all transplanted stock the roots should be pruned to re- move diseased, dead, or bruised portions. In older plants tap roots may be shortened if the cutting is done judiciously. Many trees, especially older trees, are moved more safely in the winter if they are root pruned not later than the last of the previous July. In trans- planting fine old specimens of beech and boxwood it is sometimes necessary, and always advisable, to root prune the trees for two seasons prior to the time of transplanting, in order to insure the greatest possible success. Hedges. Most hedge plants, such as the Japanese barberry and the privet, if allowed to grow as specimen plants unrestrained by severe pruning, will produce a considerable quantity of flowers and also of fruit. This is especially true of the Japanese barberry, which has interesting fruit. If these plants are grown in hedges, which are subject to frequent and severe trimming at least three or four times during the growing season, then all of the flowers are surely removed and if the flowers are not removed, then at the time of the next pruning the fruit is removed, therefore very few of the hedges of this character ever produce any fruit. The only way in which to have a hedge such as a Japanese barberry hedge, with a quantity of fruit upon it, is to prune the hedge during the very late winter months or early spring months and not to prune it again until after the fruiting season is over. Hedges which are allowed to grow naturally require but little prun- ing, except the removal of dead and diseased wood and the checking of any portion that becomes too rampant or destroys symmetry. It often becomes desirable in the development of hedge plants to keep the growth within certain well-defined limits of height, after the plants have become a few years old. This requires judicious pruning, con- sisting of the removal of many of the older branches each year, but never a heavy shearing which cuts the entire top of the plant, regard- less of the size or age of the branches, to a fixed height. Hedges which are trimmed formally should be kept uniform in height and thickness. One late winter and two or three summer prun- ings during the growing season are better than one heavy pruning yearly. Hedges will do best if kept in a flattened ovoid shape with the widest part at the base (Plate V). In this way all the leaf surface will receive a more nearly equal portion of light, and leaves will grow PPUNING 23 down to the ground. It is preferable to have the top rounded rather than flat. Remember that a portion of the current year's growth must be left on the plants when pruning. If privet hedges are winter-killed partially or wholly, or girdled by animals, they should be cut back to four or six inches above the ground. A hedge, when newly planted, should be cut back severely, often to within twelve inches of the ground. This is necessary in order to secure thick growth at the base. Topiary Effects. The operation of pruning to produce topiary effects is one that requires much more careful attention and more frequent pruning than almost any other type of pruning work, with the exception of possibly some hedges such as privet hedges, where it is necessary to maintain a constant, even effect. The yew and box- wood which are used for the most permanent effects in topiary work can be pruned to best advantage during the latter part of June and the early part of July, at which time all the new growth should be cut back as far as the older growth, which consists of darker green leaves. This allows opportunity for new shoots to develop within the old growth and thicken the mass. Many plants used for such topiary effects as ovals, spheres, pyramids, cones, spirals, etc., can be given a thorough trimming when the trees are young. The subsequent growth (if the loose-growing tips are kept cut back) will continue to increase the dimensions of these designs in an interesting way. The key to- successful topiary effects is the accurate shape to which the tree is trimmed when the first pruning work on the specimen is undertaken. Shrubs. Ornamental flowering shrubs may be pruned at any season of the year if no consideration is given to the question of flower production. Wounds made by pruning will heal, however, better during the growing season. Late summer pruning will some- times encourage a new and vigorous growth which does not thoroughly ripen during the late summer and fall months, and is consequently exposed to the danger of winter-killing. Late summer pruning should accordingly not be practised especially on semi-hardy plants. During wet seasons, and when plants are over-supplied with food, summer pruning may be resorted to, in order to restrain succulent and weak growth. Many shrubs possess a greater or less value for their flowering habits. The following are a series of memorandums explanatory of the drawings shown on Plate No. V, illustrating various methods of pruning trees and shrubs. A A large, overgrown, and "leggy" shrub with some new long shoots growing from the base of the plant. In such overgrown plants as these all of the wood which produces flowers is in the top branches at the ends of the old wood and the shrub presents a very bare effect at its base. The same shrub as shown under "A", but pruned for the purpose of allowing new shoots to develop from the base of the shrub and to permit a new top at a normal height, thus renovating the entire shrub during a period of two or three years. The same shrub as in "A", showing its development after proper pruning. This produces new flowering wood and a more natural and even development of the entire shrub, which insures a better bloom and a more satisfactory effect. The same shrub as under "A", but incorrectly pruned or "sheared" in accordance with the method of unintelligently removing all wood, new and old, at a uniform height, irrespective of flowering habits or other habits of growth of the shrub. The same shrub as under "A", showing the development in its growth after in- correct pruning (A-3). Note that most of the new growth has developed on the old wood, producing a broom effect at the top and a "leggy" condition at the base of the shrub. Such plants cannot grow normally or produce normal flower effects. This illustration shows the correct method of pruning hybrid tea roses in order to produce large individual blooms. The portion in light lines shows the branches to be removed. This illustration shows the hybrid tea rose pruned to produce an abundance of flowers but not necessarily large individual blooms. The portion in light lines shows the branches to be removed. This illustration shows the correct series of cuts to be made in removing latge branches at a point close to the trunk of the trees (1 is the first cut to Tie made, or the under cut. 2 is the second cut to be made, or the upper cut. 3 is the final cut to be made, or the close cut). Note also the healing over of a correctly made cut. This illustration shows the incorrect method of making a cut in one operation, frequently causing the splitting down of the branch. Note also the attempt to heal an incorrect cut, which was not made sufficiently close to the trunk. The bark on such cuts dies back to the trunk and the new healing bark cannot grow over the wound. D-l m Shows correct and incorrect methods of shearing or pruning hedges. D-l to D-3 Shows the correct method known as the ovoid cross section (D-i); the truncated cross section (D-2); and the rectangular cross section (D-3). As a result of each of these methods of pruning the hedge produces a solid foliage effect at its base. D-4 and D-5 # . These illustrate incorrect methods of pruning known as the inverted pyramidal cross section and the inverted cone cross section, both of which methods resulting in a wide top and a narrow base in the cross section of the hedge produce a bare effect at the base and give little foliage. 24 A-l A-2 A-3 A-4 B-l B-2 CI C-2 ^K^ || ) 1 i -Bi- -Ci -Cz -Dl- — D2- -D3- — D4- -D5 Plate V. The correct pruning of trees and shrubs is a great factor in the successful maintenance of landscape plantings. These diagrammatic drawings, together with the explanations on the opposite page, illustrate correct and in- correct methods of pruning. PRUNING 25 There are two types of shrubs (Chapter XLII-A, Page 296), one of which is the spring or early-flowering shrubs, such as Van Houtte's spirea, weigela, snowball, and most golden-bells, producing flowers on wood formed during the previous year. The other type consists of plants which produce flowers during the late summer and fall on the growth of the current year. This type includes the rose of Sharon, the hydrangea, and the common elder. The general rule for the pruning of flowering trees and shrubs, in order to encourage the development of more flowers, is to prune soon after flowering. Unless one has a defi- nite knowledge of shrubs, this rule should be applied literally. The other rule is that spring-flowering shrubs should be pruned in the early summer immediately after they are through flowering, and the summer- flowering shrubs can be pruned to the best advantage in the late winter and early spring before growth has commenced, to avoid the possibilities of winter-killing. Lilacs also should be pruned during the early part of the summer and shortly after the blooming period is complete and in every instance before the seed pods have formed. Spring-blooming plants should be pruned within a week after the blossoms fall to encourage a summer growth of budded wood which will be well ripened by winter. Summer-blooming plants may be pruned either in the late summer or just before spring growth begins, to force a new spring growth upon which summer flowers appear. Late summer pruning is never advisable. Some shrubs, such as lilacs, flowering dogwoods, and rhododendrons should not be pruned except to remove dead and diseased branches, or branches that interfere with the development of the plants. Deciduous shrubs of which the wood has become in- curably affected with scale may, however, be revivified by being cut down to the ground. In the case of plants that form ornamental fruit the branches should not be cut back far, nor the pruning done after the fruit buds have formed. Any dead or dying wood should be removed as soon as noticed. In the case of summer-blooming shrubs pruning is best done in the early spring after the leaves appear, in order to remove winter-killed tips. Old wood should be cut out to prevent shrubs from getting "leggy, i. e., having all top with no foliage around the base. In removing old wood, cut to the base of the plant; otherwise sprouts will shoot up from Stumps and fail as the latter decay. New growth should always be 26 THE COMPLETE GARDEN encouraged from the roots. Cutting back all branches, or giving shrubs an even shearing should be avoided, as strong shoots will develop and cause a too succulent and unbalanced top growth (See Plate V). With transplanted stock a general rule is to remove about one-fourth of the wood, to offset the loss of roots. Root pruning for shrubs is similar to "that of trees (See Chapter on "Planting and Transplanting"). Old shrubs and overgrown material should be thinned out by re- moving some branches to the base of the plant. This will allow sun and air to reach the base of the plant and encourage growth at the bottom. The dogwoods, globe flowers, and similar shrubs lose the bright colour of their wood as they age. The old wood should be removed to encourage new growth. Evergreens. Evergreens need but little pruning. The pruning of evergreens is done to secure formal shapes, to thicken growth, .or to preserve symmetry. Tips of branches should be sheared in the spring just before they start growing. Begin pruning a year after planting and continue each succeeding year. Evergreens dry out more rapidly than deciduous growth and as they make much growth in the early spring, wounds from spring cutting heal rapidly. April is a good month for this work in the northern states. Pinch- ing back of buds at any time in order to thicken the growth is all the pruning that most evergreens require. Shearing for formal shapes must'be done carefully and a portion of the past season's growth allowed to remain on the plants. Many evergreens such as the plume- shaped cypress, Lawson's cypress, and the arborvitae will respond to severe pruning operations. These plants grow vigorously under ideal conditions and during the growing season it is not infrequent that they require pruning two or three times. Rarely are evergreens pruned for the purpose of removing branches which are crowding, and only under very abnormal conditions is it necessary to prune evergreens in order to remove dead or diseased branches. Rhododendrons. The pruning of rhododendrons, as a rule, is unsatisfactory, particularly if the wood is old. If the plant is very thrifty, and in a damp, sheltered position, fair success may be had. Not more than one-half of a plant should be pruned in any one year and the other part in the succeeding year. It should be done early PRUNING 27 in the spring and the bark of the stumps well moistened at least twice daily to assist the development and breaking through of the dormant leaf buds. Cuts should be made just above a whorl of leaves because adventitious buds will appear there more promptly than elsewhere. If the plants are not thrifty it might be advisable to cut half of the stalks to the ground, using care not to decrease, more than is necessary, the beauty of the plants. New shoots will be developed from the ground, and when these reach a satisfactory height, repeat the process with the remaining stalks. The root system will also be benefited by such treatment. Pruning is seldom resorted to with rhododendrons in order to pro- duce increased size and quantity of flowers. As an added precaution for the successful development of rhododendrons all the seed pods should be removed from the finer and less vigorous growing plants immediately after the flowering period is complete and before any of the plant energy has been expended in the development and ripen- ing of the seed pods, thus diverting this energy into the production of new flower buds instead of into the production of useless seed pods. Vines. Vines are pruned only to remove dead wood and strag- gling growth. Prune vines after blooming, except vines with orna- mental fruit; the latter should be cut back severely in the spring, because they fruit on the new wood. Roses. Prune hybrid perpetual and most other hardy roses in April when sap begins to flow and buds start to swell. At this time dead wood may be most easily distinguished and mulch should not be disturbed earlier. Memorial roses and rambler roses should be pruned just after the flowering season to produce wood for the next year's bloom. Other things being equal, the pruning determines the quantity and size of flowers. Severe pruning will produce the largest and best flowers; less severe pruning is productive of a large crop of average flowers; medium pruning produces a large crop of smaller blooms (Plate V, Page 24). For severe pruning, thin out to the base all but three to five shoots, with two to three buds on each shoot. Less severe pruning requires the same number of shoots to be cut back to from five to ten buds. For medium pruning, leave four to seven shoots and cut each back to 28 THE COMPLETE GARDEN one-half of its height. Always cut the stem one-fourth to one-half inch immediately above a strong bud that points out from the centre of the plant. When a plant has been pruned the shoots should be left as nearly as possible equi-distant from each other and arranged around the plant, so that it presents a well-balanced appearance on all sides with an uncrowded centre. With some hybrid perpetuals and climbers, if considerable length of stem is cut with the flowers, the plants can be induced to make some autumn bloom. Seeds should never be permitted to ripen on rose bushes, as the effect of this is extremely weakening to the plant. When pruning hybrid perpetual roses remove branches that cross, and all weak wood also. Cut back strong canes to six buds, the top bud pointing outward. For a big outdoor display leave two-thirds of the length of four to seven canes. Sometimes it is feasible to cut away part of the tops in autumn so that the fibrous roots will not be loosened or broken by the force of winter winds swaying the plants. Hybrid teas and teas must be cut to the surface of the soil, if neces- sary, in order to cut to live wood. However, as much or more wood should be left as on hybrid perpetuals, if possible. Weak growers should be cut back farther than strong growers. Rugosas, bourbons, chinas, austrian briers, ramblers, and wich- uraianas need but little pruning. Thin out and cut back only a few inches of the stems. Remove wood to the base of the plant as it be- comes old. Climbing and pillar roses need only one-third to one-fifth of the wood removed. All old wood should be removed about once in three years. In autumn any unusually long canes should be cut back slightly and tied up. When rose blooms are cut from the plant the finest and largest blooms follow if only one bud is left to the branch. CHAPTER IV PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING Reasons for Transplanting. Transplanting, in its general defini- tion, is the operation of taking a plant up from the soil and planting it again in a new location, where it is expected to continue normal growth. The term "plant" is applied to trees, shrubs, vines, peren- nials, and annuals. Correct transplanting implies that a plant in its new position should be left in proper posture, and firmly imbedded in good soil. In addition to placing plants in new and permanent loca- tions to have them more effective, or where they may develop to better advantage, it is often necessary to move plants from masses in order to prevent crowding and to provide more space for the remaining plants to develop. This is true especially with nursery-grown stock, and in plantations also which are made dense at the outset in order to pro- duce an immediate effect. Spacing of Plants. One of the important factors in successful plantings is the correct spacing of plants at the time of transplanting. Every plant requires space in which to develop normally. The result of close planting is eventually an overcrowded condition and a lack of healthy, well-developed foliage, flowers, and fruit. The more vigorous specimens crowd out the weaker ones and unless a "thinning-out" process is adopted, the mass effect becomes quite uneven and ragged. The reason for most overcrowded plantings is the desire on the part of the designer to obtain an immediate effect. Too often our im- patience and unwillingness to wait until plants mature and "fill out," develops many errors. Three years after transplanting is the normal period required for shrubs, two years for perennials, and eight to ten years for average nursery-grown trees to make the necessary growth to overcome the bare effect of the border or row of trees when planted in small sizes. The question often arises as to whether or not it is better to use average-sized nursery stock (three to four-year-old stock) or to use 29 3° THE COMPLETE GARDEN large overgrown shrubs. Many people feel that an immediate effect is desirable and therefore the larger the shrubs that are used the more quickly the effect will be produced. The author has had considerable experience with both types of plantings. The nursery shrub will re- quire anywhere from two to four years under normal spacing before it will develop sufficiently to produce the desired effect in the mass planting. On the other hand, the large, overgrown shrub which will produce an immediate effect generally requires severe pruning and cutting back in order to produce any growth which will fill the plant at the bottom and the top. This renovating process requires from two to three years. Therefore at the end of this period the general effect of the plantation is about the same whether large, overgrown shrubs are used or whether the smaller nursery specimens are used. The correct method to adopt in general planting work is to allow sufficient space between plants for the normal development of each. Planting too close, although providing a more finished appearance during the first one or two seasons, is far more undesirable than liberal spacing. It is not practicable to lay down a well-defined rule for spacing plants. The planter can best be guided by the knowledge that he is seeking an immediate mass effect of foliage, requiring close spacing, or that he will wait during a proper period before expecting to see the plantation well developed. See list re "Spacing of Plants" which follows. SPACING OF PLANTS THE FOLLOWING IS A TABLE OF DISTANCES AS A GUIDE IN TRANSPLANTING Purpose Typical Plants Close Planting Normal Distance Allees — Trees Open Thorns 2 ft. 3 ft- Pleached European Cork-barked Maple I ft. l|ft. Annuals Carpet Bedding Alternanthera 3 jn- 6 in. Design Bedding Snapdragons 6 in. 12 in. Edgings Al} s-jurn 4 in. 6 in. Broad-leaved Evergreens Great Laurel 3 ft. 5 ft. Hybrid Rhododendrons 2|ft. 3fft. Mountain Laurel 2 ft. 3 ft- Mountain Fetterbush lift. 2* ft. Japanese Azaleas lift. 2 ft. PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING SPACING OF PLANTS— Continued Purpose Typical Plants Close Planting Normal Distance Bulbs and Tubers Hyacinths 4 in. 6 in. Tulips 4 in. 6 in. Narcissi 4 in. 6 in. Crocus 2 in. 3 | n - Squills 3 in- 4 in. Chionodoxas 2 in. Snowdrops 2 in. Grape Hyacinths 3 jn. Anemones 4 in. 6 in. Bulbous Irises 4 in. Lilies 12 in. 1 8 in. Gladioli 2 in. 4 in. Dahlias 2 ft. 3 ft. Bush Fruits Currants 4 ft. 6 ft. Gooseberries 4 ft. 6 ft. Red Raspberries 3 ft. 5 ft. Black Raspberries 4 ft. 6 ft. Blackberries 4 ft. 6 ft. Dewberries 4 ft. 6 ft. Ground Cover Deciduous Vines Hall's Honeysuckle i ft. 2 ft. Evergreens Japanese Spurge Moss Pink 6 in. 9 to 12 in. Perennials 9 in. 12 in. Hedges Low Sheared Japanese Privet Double Row (staggered) 10 in. 12 in. Single Row 8 in. io to 12 in. High and Wide Beech i|ft. 2 ft. Herbaceous Perennials Edgings Carpathian Harebell 4 in. 6 in. Low Gold Tuft 9 in. 12 in. Medium Phloxes 12 in. 15 in. Spreading Peonies 18 in. zh to 3 ft. Tall Larkspurs 12 in. 18 in. Tall Slender Chimney Bellflower 12 in. 15 in. Kitchen Garden Strawberries I|ft- 2 ft. Asparagus li ft. 3 ft. Roses Garden Bush Roses 2 ft. 2| ft. Garden Hybrid Perpetual 2 ft. 2|ft. Garden Hybrid Tea 18 in. 2 ft. Garden Polyantha 9 in. 12 in. On embankments. Dorothy Perkins 2|ft. 3 to 4 ft. On fences Tausendschoen 8 ft. 1 10 to 15ft. 32 THE COMPLETE GARDEN SPACING OF PLANTS— Continued Close Normal Purpose Typical Plants Planting Distance Shrubs in Masses Large Morrow's Honeysuckle 3 ft. 4 to S ft. Low Japanese Barberry 2 ft. 2| ft. Medium Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 2|ft 3 to 4 ft. Street Trees Large Elms 30 ft. 50 ft. Medium Sugar Maple 25 ft. 40 ft. Small Pin Oak 25 ft. 35 ft. Trees Fruit trees Standard Apples 30 ft. 40 ft. Dwarf Apples 8 ft. 12 ft. Standard Pears 16 ft. 20 ft. Dwarf Pears 8 ft. 10 ft. Plums 16 ft. 20 ft. Peaches 16 ft. 20 ft. Apricots 16 ft. 20 ft. Sweet Cherries 16 ft. 24 ft. Sour Cherries 16 ft. 20 ft. Quinces 10 ft. 12 ft. Groves Oaks 20 ft. 25 to 35 ft. Lawn specimens Purple Beech 45 ft. 60 ft. Vine (fruit) Grapes 8 ft. 10 ft. Vines Climbers on walls Boston Ivy 8 ft. 12 ft. On embankments Hall's Honeysuckle 2§ft- 3* *. Windbreaks (trees) Hornbeams Sft- 8 ft. Spruces 8 ft. 12 ft. Conditions for Transplanting. It is better to transplant stock on a dull, moist day, rather than on a bright, sunny day, because the planter needs to give less attention to the drying out and consequent injury to fibrous root growth. The most ideal weather for moving plants is a day when a cloudy condition exists and when there is ample moisture in the air. Avoid bright, sunny, dry days on which to do transplanting, unless plenty of water is used, or the plants are thoroughly dormant. Dry winds are equally as injurious as hot sun. The general rule is that no plant should be transplanted except with extreme care, and only when it is entirely dormant. Plants are PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 33 generally considered dormant when the flow of sap has ceased in the top, at which time the season's growth is completed, and when the wood has had an ample opportunity to ripen and harden. Deciduous plants are dormant when the leaves have fallen or turned brown. Transplanting before the wood is thoroughly ripened is one of the sources of winter-killing. It will be noted under group No. 40-A and 40B (on Page 289) that there are certain types of stock which should be transplanted in the spring and others which should be transplanted in the fall to secure the best results. The explanation is contained in Chapter XL. Evergreens require different rules for time of moving and must therefore be considered separately (See Page 48). It is practicable to transplant small trees, many evergreens and many shrubs, together with perennials, before they have finished their growing season or after growth in the spring has well begun; but this should rarely if ever be attempted with large trees. In such out-of-season handling of the stock extreme caution should be used to prevent drying out, and the plant should be moved, if possible, with the earth balled about the roots. Transplanting Nursery Stock. It is essential that the pur- chaser of nursery stock should request that such material be lifted and packed properly. Nursery stock in general must be dug carefully to preserve as much of the root growth as is practicable, and with roots cut as cleanly as possible. The stock should not be allowed to stand openly exposed to the injurious effects of wind and sun after lifting and before packing. For short shipments, of one or two days, stock can be packed equally well in excelsior, sphagnum-moss, or straw, but for longer shipments material should not be packed in excelsior, for it dries out too rapidly. On receipt of nursery stock which has been shipped in boxes or crates the stock (being delivered by truck or by wagon) should be so loaded and so covered with canvas that there is a minimum of exposure to drying-out processes. Stock, when received on the grounds where it is to be planted, should be removed at once from boxes or crates, and if not planted immediately must be "heeled in" (Plate VI) or kept in some other way from drying out. Transplanting — Collected Stock. Collected stock needs more careful attention than nursery stock. Collected material usually The following is a descriptive memorandum to accompany Plate No. VI. A If plants are not to be planted immediately (within three or four days) after the time of arrival, they should be carefully unpacked and "heeled-in," until such time as they can be planted to advantage (See Page 36). B-l and B-2 The average small tree as it is received from the nursery ought to be pruned be- fore the plant is put in its permanent location. This drawing shows a nursery tree (B-i) with two leaders, and the proper pruning of this tree (B-2) by removing one of the leaders and some of the small branches. C-l and C-2 Large trees and trees which are difficult to transplant should be root pruned not later than July of the summer previous to the season when they are to be trans- planted. Usually the fibrous part of the existing root system (C-i) is entirely removed by the transplanting operation unless root pruning is done (C-i) and the trenches filled with well-rotted compost, thus encouraging the fibrous root system (C-2) close to the trunk of the tree and within the diameter of the ball of earth usually moved with the tree. D-l, D-2, D-3, and D-4 Hybrid roses of various types are sometimes grown on their own roots without grafting (D-i). Such roses should be transplanted slightly deeper (D-2) than in their original position (D-i). D-3 shows the same bush mounded with a depth of 6 to 8 inches of soil, for winter protection. In transplanting grafted roses the knot formation, indicated by the arrow, where the graft was made should be set about I inch or more below the surface of the soil (D-4). If any suckers develop from below the graft, the soil should be dug away and the suckers cut off close to the stem. Z-l, E-2, and E-3 Trees and shrubs growing at a normal depth (E-l) should be transplanted leaving the surface of the ground surrounding the stem at the same point or slightly below that point in the new location, and the basin for watering such plants should be made as shown in E-2. Plants should never be transplanted at an abnormal depth below the surface of the existing ground or permanently left with a mound of earth around the main stem as shown in E-3. U iS*'.y„ ^Zr- -A- -Bi- -B2- -Di- -D2- -D5- -D4- -E2- -E3- Plate VI. A knowledge of the various operations involved in the work of correctly transplanting plants is essential for their subsequent normal development. These diagrammatic drawings accompanied by the explanation on the opposite page illustrate various transplanting operations. THE LIB ■tuimr! PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 3S has a larger spread of roots than plants grown in nursery rows, and as it has never been previously transplanted or root pruned it suffers more severely through loss of root system. Top pruning must there- fore be more severe for collected plants than for nursery material, to offset the greater loss of roots. Collected stock usually requires a longer period in which to become well established in its new location. When the loss in transplanted stock is ten or fifteen per cent., the aver- rage loss in collected stock may be as high as twenty per cent. The usual period required for establishing nursery stock in its new loca- tion is two years. The usual period for establishing collected stock may range from two to four years. Season of Year for Transplanting. Planting seasons in differ- ent localities are influenced by many factors. Soil conditions and climatic conditions are the most important, as seen in Chapter II. Heavy soils are more friable during the fall, while during the spring they remain heavy, cold, and wet until quite late. In such soils if but little planting is to be done it is better to plant during the spring months for the reason that clay soils tend, through frost action during the winter months, to heave out material which is planted in the fall. It is undoubtedly true that fall planting, especially in heavy soils, requires more thorough winter protection than spring planting in the same soil. On the other hand, if a quantity of planting is to be done it is much safer to plant during the fall in a heavy soil, especially as a rainy season is frequently experienced during the early spring months, thus delaying planting work until growth is too far advanced. There is little actual difference between the desirability of spring planting and fall planting. There are arguments on both sides of the question and, with the exception of those plants which are adapted for trans- planting only at a specific season, the writer suggests that planting should be done whenever the soil is ready to receive the plants, whether it be spring or fall. This is especially true in the loamy soils. Trans- planting should not be done too late in the spring, for the reason that growth will be too far advanced for the plants to be moved with safety, and the season will become hot and dry before the plants are well established. It is for this reason that plants taken from a colder climate to a much warmer climate should preferably be transplanted in the fall. 36 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Planting Beds. General Preparations of. Soil for planting should be prepared carefully. Beds for shrubbery should be dug at least twelve inches deep and ample width and depth provided for trees, varying according to their size. The soil should be made loose and friable so that it will cover the roots thoroughly. Well-rotted manure should be incorporated in planting beds, but never directly in contact with the roots, especially of evergreens. Heavy soils should be lightened, if possible, by the addition of sandy loam or straw manure and light soils should be improved by the addition of vegetable matter. Oftentimes owners of property are so anxious to do their planting in an economical way that they lose sight of the facf that thorough preparation of all planting areas, although more expensive, is good economy, and the least expensive way in the long run of obtaining good results. Poor preparation of planting beds as well as foundations for lawn areas means an increased expense in the cost of maintenance during the succeeding years after the completion of the original work. Thorough preparation of planting beds can be accomplished only through the use of good friable topsoil and an adequate supply of well- rotted manure. It is an easy matter in all planting work, especially that done in clay soils, to do so-called pocket planting and to feel that the initial expense has been very greatly reduced. In all planting areas bordering refined laVns this method of planting is not desirable. It causes a "soil-bound" and a stunted growth of the root system and does not provide the adequate food supply which plants growing freely in a loose and friable soil can obtain. Heeling-in Stock to Be Transplanted. When shipments of stock are received it is frequently impossible to plant the material as rapidly as it is unpacked, and it is often impossible to plant the stock because the beds are not prepared. The placing of stock in temporary nursery rows immediately after it has been unpacked is called "heeling in." In this manner stock may be preserved in its normal condition until such time as it can be transplanted to its permanent location. There are a few important points in connection with the operation of "heeling-in" stock which should be clearly understood. Trees and shrubs, when "heeled-in" over winter, should be leaned to the north so that the low winter sun may not shine directly into the tops nor so readily melt the frozen ground about the stems. Thus they are protected better from freezing and thawing of the ground and from PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 37 premature starting of the buds in the spring. Nursery stock may be placed in temporary nursery rows, either by keeping the plants tied in original bundles as taken from the packing boxes, or by taking the individual plants from each bundle and heeling them in separately. The latter method is the safer and is the one to be adopted if plants are to remain in these temporary nursery rows for a period longer than ten days or two weeks. When stock is "heeled-in" in bundles, a special effort should be made to get the fine topsoil worked into the air spaces among the roots of the plants in each bundle. Permitting the air to reach the roots in the middle of the bundle because this precau- tion is not taken, is one of the most frequent sources of injury. The best method to adopt to be certain that fine soil is worked in among the roots is to thoroughly water the plants when they are "heeled-in" and to make sure that the water leaves no roots suspended in air. When individual plants are placed in temporary nursery rows, where they are to remain for a period longer than three or four weeks, they should be spaced not closer than twelve inches, or even farther apart for the larger shrubs, to eliminate injury from crowding as soon as the new growth begins (See Plate VI). Root Protection and Puddling. The important object in trans- planting is to transfer the plant to its new position in such a condition that growth will immediately continue as nearly normal as possible when growing conditions become favourable. Growth is first excited and maintained by very fine, fibrous roots, almost thread-like in character, which attach themselves to the soil. It is this fine root growth which is so sensitive to injury from drying-out processes, and which must be protected against the sun's rays, and also from the effect of wind. A dry wind will work greater injury to plants which are left uncovered during any unnecessary length of time than will a bright sun on a moist day. It is often necessary to transplant material under exceedingly un- favourable conditions, due to wind, or sun, or when plants have advanced in leaf growth. Under such circumstances it is advisable to "puddle" the roots at the time when the plants are removed from the temporary nursery rows, and before they are planted permanently. "Puddling" consists in dipping the roots of the plants in a basin hollowed out of the soil and filled with a molasses-like mixture of loam and water. This "puddling" process leaves a coating of mud over the fine roots and prevents excessive drying out until the material is planted. 3 8 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Drainage for Transplanted Stock. The soil in which plants are placed should be considered carefully. Sandy soils which have ample drainage, and clayey soils, which naturally retain water, require dis- tinctly different treatment. It is invariably necessary in clayey soils, especially with larger trees, to provide artificial drainage. In sandy soil*, on the other hand, an extra supply of water must be added, especially when stock is transplanted during the latter part of the spring season or in the warmer climates. A plant should not be placed in a "pocket," excavated in shale or clay, which will afford little or no drainage; and it is of course better not to plant on a small mound which will lose moisture rapidly during the dry season. The common practice of "hilling" earth around the stem of the plant, which sheds water away from the roots, is to be discouraged. A shallow, basin-shaped depression should be left around the stem. This will hold the water until it soaks down to the roots. But suitable allowance must be made for later settling of the loosened earth. Balled-and-Burlapped Root Systems. Planting material is often lifted with a ball of earth left intact around the roots. The ball of earth after being lifted is then carefully wrapped with burlap. This process is used with large material, evergreens, and any plants that are difficult to move. The great danger of transplanting such material after it has been wrapped for three or four days lies in the fact that during this period the outer thin layer of earth on the ball becomes hard and dry. The general practice with many planters has been to plant the stock without further care after removing the burlap. In the course of a few months the plant dies. Loss is due to insufficient moisture reaching the outer coating of the ball to loosen it, and thus necessary water cannot reach the roots, which have become sealed inside the hard coating. The best practice with all plants which have been "balled and burlapped" is to immerse the ball in water for a short time in order to thoroughly loosen the dirt in this outer coating before transplanting. It is never advisable simply to slit the burlap with a knife without removing the covering entirely and soaking the ball with water before transplanting. Place the plant in the hole where it is to be planted, then cut the binding and remove the burlap very slowly and carefully, exercising caution to avoid disturbing the ball; then partially fill the hole with water. PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 19 Depth for Transplanting. The question is often asked as to 1 .v deep stock should be set when it is transplanted. This is a query which must be applied to various types of material according to the special requirements of each. For example, some of the more tender perennials like the shasta daisy, the foxglove, and the cardinal flower should not be set as deep as some of the hardier types like the phlox, the larkspur, and the hardy sunflower. The suggestions here, however, are general. A plant in its new location should stand at about the same level as it stood before. There is more danger of setting a plant too deep in a clayey soil than in that which is sandy, for it is vital that the air should reach the roots. More stock is injured by deep planting than by shallow, and it often will be found well to set the plant with the crown or top of the roots an inch or more nearer the surface than it was before. This is especially true in the case of trees which, as is fre- quently observed, are easily killed by filling in earth around them. In the case of shrubs it is not a serious matter, except with rhododendrons and azaleas. These two plants are strongly characterized by having roots that remain near the surface. Roses of all kinds, however, are better set deep, for they readily throw out new roots above the old. Deep planting thus incidentally helps to conserve the supply of moisture so essential to success with the rose. In the case of budded roses it is necessary to have the union at least two and a half or three inches below the surface of the ground, in order that suckers may not spring up from the stock and choke the engrafted plant. Vines, particularly grape vines, also it is well to plant deep. In fact, grape vines are often led under the ground for a rod or more to spring up at a distant point where it is desired to have them grow. But with perennials in general, extreme care must be exercised. Those like the iris, with leaves that spring from a point near the ground, are made to decay by earth heaped about them. Those with thick, fleshy roots particularly should be planted only according to a careful observance of their habit of growth. The peony does not make good bloom if the eyes are sunk much more than two and a half inches below the surface. In the transplanting of the roots of the larkspur it should be borne in mind that the crown at the base of the plant should be covered with good topsoil to a depth of approximately two or three inches. In all transplanting calculation should be made of the possibility of the earth settling around the plant (See Plate VI). 4 o THE COMPLETE GARDEN Fertilizing Transplanted Stock. In using fertilizers it is not advisable to apply them in any quantity so that they will come in direct contact with the roots of newly transplanted stock. It is always essential for plants to become established before they can make use of a fertilizer; otherwise injury may result. Until a tree makes a new terminal bud on the second growth its root system has not become established nor has it developed fibrous feeding rootlets sufficient to support the tree. A safe recommendation is that fertilizers should be so distributed in the soil surrounding the roots of transplanted stock that the food can become available as soon as the roots have started growth. In transplanting nursery trees and large trees a slow-acting fertilizer, such as bone meal, can be used in the soil around the roots, because the fertilizer will become available at the time when the tree has developed some of its new root growth. Tamping and Watering. Soil should be made compact in among the roots of newly transplanted stock by watering or tamping. Tamp- ing may be accomplished by pressing down the soil with the heel or a stick. In tamping, care should be exercised not to press too heavily immediately around the stem of the plant, as in so doing injury may be caused by the breaking of roots. Soil that can be "readily packed ohould be used around the roots. This is necessary, as any air spaces remaining will cause drying out of roots and consequent injury to the plants. If water is available, it is advisable to run some slowly into the holes where material is planted, either at the time of planting or immediately after planting. The best plan is to put it in when the hole is partly filled with earth around the roots. This is done further to compact the soil and to provide necessary moisture. Unless soil is particularly moist, newly transplanted stock should be watered shortly after transplanting. It is not advisable, however, to apply very much water in soils or sites extremely retentive of moisture for it is quite as easy to injure plants from over-watering as it is to preserve them by giving them just sufficient water to meet their requirements. Transplanting Small Seedlings. For transplanting small seed- lings of trees and shrubs a well-protected spot should be selected, and the ground should be prepared to a depth of twelve or fifteen inches by deep spading and careful raking. Prepare the area in the same way Plate VIII. To most of us in the northern states the method of seeding a lawn is familiar, but the method of making lawns in southern states by planting Bermuda grass, is little known. In these photographs small clumps of Bermuda grass are being planted in "hills" staggered at intervals ranging from 1 8 inches to 30 inches. The thicker the planting the more quickly a mat of turf can be developed. (See page 62) PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 41 as for a vegetable garden. The little plants, which should not have been exposed at all to the warm air or drying winds, are then best puddled before they are lined out. But in this actual planting there is danger of permitting the mud in which they were puddled to become hardened about their roots. Further to safeguard them, particu- larly if they are evergreens, it is necessary to shade them until they are well established in the new home. Some evergreens, particu- larly the small shrubby kinds, need such shading even beyond the first year. Pruning Transplanted Stock. Suggestions with reference to pruning are covered more fully in the chapter on "Pruning." One of the fundamental practices to be followed in connection with the correct transplanting of stock is to prune all branches and roots properly. Any branches that are crowding should be carefully pruned at the time of transplanting, especially if the transplanting is done in the spring; otherwise it is a better practice to leave the stock standing in its new position during the winter and perform the necessary prun- ing of the top in the early spring or later winter months. An exception to this practice is the case of maple trees, which should be pruned before sap starts to flow in the spring. With trees and shrubs hav- ing a heavy top, at least one-third of the top should be removed at the time of transplanting, or before the stock has commenced to make its new growth in the spring. This is done to offset the loss of roots incurred in moving and it is essential except with nursery stock which has been frequently root-pruned at the nursery. All bruised and broken roots should be carefully pruned, with a clean cut, at the time of transplanting. Only in this manner will roots heal and possible decay be avoided. Save as many roots as possible when moving. Winter Protection of Newly Transplanted Stock. A neces- sary feature in caring for newly transplanted plants, especially those set in the fall, is to apply a suitable mulch for winter protection. This applies to all kinds of transplanted material. A mulch, in heavier clayey soils, reduces the possible injury caused by changes of tempera- ture and consequent heaving of the plants. A proper mulch of fresh stable litter, applied three to six inches in depth, keeps the soil at an even temperature and prevents extreme freezing conditions from 42 THE COMPLETE GARDEN injuring the roots. A mulch which is largely straw may provide a refuge for rabbits, rats, and mice which frequently girdle plants during the winter months. Transplanting Trees. Some plants, particularly trees, may be transplanted successfully while young but are more difficult to move as they get older. Examples of this are the hickory and oaks, which, with the exception of the pin oak, form deep tap roots. The tulips and magnolias are hard to move because they have few fibrous roots; while maples and elms, on the contrary, have many fibrous roots and are moved more easily. Junipers transplant more readily when older, for they then have a more extensive lateral root system. Season to Transplant, and Preparation of Holes. Large trees should be transplanted when they are dormant. It may be necessary to move other material before the growing period has stopped, but this should seldom be attempted with older trees. Large trees are moved in winter, and it is preferable to move them when the ground is frozen. The ball of earth on the roots will then remain fairly intact and there will be a minimum of root loss when moving. Holes for the trees should be dug with straight sides and with bottom rather convex or slightly rounded. This is much to be preferred to making holes bowlshaped and it permits an opportunity to spread the roots more naturally than in a hole where the middle is deeper than the sides. A common error in transplanting large trees is that of providing a hole not sufficiently large to receive the roots of the tree without cramp- ing. A hole for a large tree greater than five to six inches in diameter should not be less than eight to ten feet in diameter, and never less than three feet in depth. The most common method of transplanting large trees is the method of cutting the roots down to a ball approximating eight to ten feet in diameter. Trees transplanted in this way are frequently subjected to a root-pruning process during the previous summer, or preferably during the previous year. It has been stated by authorities, who are in a position to know, that the ideal method of transplanting trees is by saving all of the root system, if possible. This process is known as "combing" out the root system. Under this method all of the roots are traced down to their fine ends and then the roots are tied up in burlap in order to pre- vent excessive drying out of the fine fibrous roots. Transplanting PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 43 in this way requires much more care, but it assures less loss than the other method, which is a violent process and requires strong recupera- tive powers in the tree which is transplanted. Drainage of Tree Pits. Ample drainage must be provided for large trees, especially when set in clayey soil. The soil with which trees are transplanted is normally a medium loam, not too compact in character. This soil is much more porous than the heavy clay soil in which the hole for the tree may be excavated. Consequently, the natural tendency during wet seasons is for the water to drain toward the tree pit and to "water soak" the loose topsoil in which the tree has been set. This really places the tree in a reservoir. A tree will survive such treatment if it can withstand extreme moisture con- ditions, or if the water drains slowly av/ay. However, the tree is generally killed during the first season, or may survive in a much weakened condition. The normal method of draining trees is to pro- vide a four-inch tile connected with some outlet in the form of existing tile drains, or lower ground, so that the water may be taken away. In the event that there is no opportunity to provide this type of drainage it is desirable to excavate a hole to a greater depth — approxi- mately three to five feet — and thereby provide below the tree a space of at least twelve inches which should be filled with broken stone or other porous material and in which water resulting from normal rain- fall may be collected. In this way the root growth may be kept from drowning. Method of Procedure in Transplanting Large Trees. It is economical in transplanting large trees to adopt the following method of procedure. In selecting large trees for transplanting great care should be exercised to select only those individual trees which show a vigorous growing condition and which are more or less symmetrical. 1. Select and stake the proposed location where the tree is to be transplanted. 2. Cover this space, over a diameter of at least ten feet, with ten to twelve inches of fresh stable manure. This is more economical than to excavate the hole and fill it with topsoil for the reason that this topsoil is apt to freeze and be useless at time of transplanting. 3. Preserve a single large pile of topsoil (rather than a number of small piles, which freeze in a severe winter) and cover this with twelve or fifteen inches of 44 THE COMPLETE GARDEN stable litter, in order to protect it from freezing and to make it readily avail- able when the trees are transplanted. It is quite essential that this topsoil should be friable at the time of planting. 4. When conditions are favourable for transplanting, remove the stable manure from the place where the tree is to be planted, excavate the hole, dig up the tree, place it in the hole, cover the roots with the topsoil, and then replace the stable manure over this area. This covering will then serve as a mulch and as protection against further freezing, and against evaporation in hot weather. After trees are planted guy wires should be set to prevent wind storms from bending or tipping the trees over. It is never a safe practice to transplant any large tree without supporting it with wires. The reason for attaching guy wires to newly transplanted trees is two- fold. First, to be sure that the tree does not blow over during a severe windstorm, and second, to keep the tree from swaying without blowing over and thereby loosening the root system and letting air get into the soil around the roots. This second reason for guying trees is an im- portant one, and is sufficient in itself to require a very careful tight- ening of the wires which hold the trees in place. In placing guy wires on the trunk it should be protected from injury by the use of pieces of hose, bagging, or canvas. Protection After Transplanting. Large trees when trans- planted must be amply protected against evaporation during the hot summer months. This protection is given to the tree in two ways. First, a mulch consisting of straw, litter, or leaves is applied to a depth of six to eight inches, over an area eight to ten feet in diameter, im- mediately around the base of the tree. Second, the trunk is wrapped with burlap or bagging to prevent excessive drying out. Many newly transplanted trees are injured by the hot rays of the sun through lack of this protection which prevents a drying out of the bark and cambium tissue on the exposed trunk of the tree. This drying out often results in injury to large trees (as shown in Plate VII, Page 75) to such an extent that the bark cracks, dries up, and becomes loosened from the trunk of the tree thus exposing the inner wood immediately under the bark. It is quite as necessary to provide suitable mulch during the winter months of the next season after the transplanting, as to provide one in the summer months. In a newly transplanted tree a fine root growth is developed near to the surface of the ground, and this root growth is easily injured by any excessive freezing and thawing which may occur during a severe winter. PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 45 Pruning Trees After Transplanting. After the transplanting, the top and the root growth of a tree must be balanced. It is necessary to remove a portion of the root growth in order to make it practicable to handle the tree, and the removal of roots and lifting of the tree from its existing location shuts off much of the supply of moisture which goes into the tree. In every plant that is moved there is stored within the plant a certain amount of food material which becomes available immediately when growth starts. A portion of the top of the tree should therefore be removed in order to lessen the possible areas of evaporation and areas of leaf growth, which draw heavily upon the store of food in the tree; otherwise this reserve supply is apt to be ex- hausted before root growth is started sufficiently to provide the tree with new moisture. There are instances when it is not necessary to prune because the full benefit of the top is immediately required. The latter, however, will require more care for the tree during the summer months and entails a greater liability to loss because of the unbalanced condition of the top and root growth. A tree that is properly pruned at the time of transplanting will, within three years, equal in development a similar tree that is transplanted, not pruned, and given much necessary additional care. Fertilizing Newly Transplanted Trees. In transplanting trees there is great danger that they may be over-fertilized. A tree which has just been transplanted has suffered a severe shock to its root system. It is not in a condition to utilize a great quantity of food. It must be supplied with food slowly and only in such quantities as it can readily take up through its root system. There is great danger of over-stimulating newly transplanted trees at the time when their leaves are not sufficiently developed to digest the food which is supplied, and hence instead of forcing more growth in the tree, a condition is apt to be brought about in the soil surrounding the roots and in the tree itself which retards growth instead of encouraging it. At the time a tree is transplanted a normal amount of well-rotted manure should be worked into the soil but not in direct contact with the roots. Not until the tree shows evident signs of regaining its normal vigour by developing leaves which are full size, and new wood of a normal length, should the tree be heavily fertilized. Such trees may be "tuned up" by feeding them with a mixed fertilizer of potash, dried blood, and bone meal. Such a fertilizer may be fed to trees during the 46 THE COMPLETE GARDEN year previous to the time that they are transplanted, in order to make them more vigorous and better able to withstand the shock of trans- planting, or such a mixed fertilizer may be fed to the tree in small quan- tities, five to ten pounds to an average-sized tree (six to eight inches in diameter) within the first year after the tree has been transplanted. Under no conditions should a newly transplanted tree be left on a neatly mowed lawn area without artificial methods being resorted to for feeding it. The old saying, as quoted from Mr. Hicks, is that "Neatness is starvation." Nature provides a continual gathering of leaves and grass which rots and makes fertilizer for the tree. When the grass is kept closely clipped and the clippings taken away, and when the leaves are raked each fall, then this neatness deprives the tree of all of its possible source of food supply. Transplanting Nursery-grown Trees. Nursery trees are trees which have been grown under nursery conditions for at least two or three years. The most desirable method of handling such trees is to ball-and-burlap them, to lessen the danger of injury from trans- planting. This applies to small trees with well-developed root systems, and especially to those which have been so root pruned that the root spread is in a smaller, more compact area than that of the usual nursery tree. Holes for nursery trees should be excavated at least one foot larger than the ball preserved with the tree. In other words, the roots of the tree should never be pruned to fit the hole in which the tree is to be planted and the roots should never be crowded. It is quite essential to place small guy wires, not less than three in number, to each small nursery tree from two to five inches in diameter. This is especially necessary when trees are in exposed locations or stand alone as specimens. When large plantations are set out and the trees will be subjected to broad sweeps of wind, it is more economical not to guy, but rather to watch the plantation, and from time to time straighten up such trees as are pushed out of their normal position by the wind. In an effort to build up plantations of native growth, such as oak, beech, hickory, basswood, and any other forest trees, it is better to plant these trees in concentric circles or a spiral arrangement so that during the first three or four years any one could cultivate among these trees without very much difficulty. If the trees in such plantations are staggered here and there without any relationship to any avenues through which . *» -h "> 0. J= ■w <:' 5 .s 4-> 3 -S CO ■5 -5 K < < si ■v. «l O V B U u U ■l-J *:-. V* s u C3 V S^-S cxte CO kjk.^ •5 his 1 I I I I lq g be £ c * c ?V o-.S C3 -a ! S\?v. £ ° o rt C . „ E <" C o g * £T eg oo E a, -3 t-> "" +j h _ a ° O 33 c .« PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 47 harrow or cultivator can pass, the maintenance work becomes a ques- tion of hand work instead of team work. Transplanting Shrubs Efficiently. In transplanting shrubbery the stock should be left out of the ground as short a time as possible. A crew of two or three men under one competent planting foreman is as many as can be operated to good advantage in planting shrubbery and perennials according to some definite plan, unless the men are thor- oughly familiar with methods of planting, and the required loca- tion for the plants. Transplanting Vines. The transplanting of vines is similar to transplanting shrubs. Vines are very often planted too close to foun- dation walls. Care must be taken not to set plants against a wall, but rather three or four inches away. All foreign material, such as lime, bricks, etc., should be removed from the ground to a depth of at least twelve inches, and the vines placed in excellent, fine soil. Vines should not be planted against walls or buildings where the overhang of the eaves or other features of the building will deprive them of the normal amount of rain; otherwise great care must be exercised in artificial watering. Transplanting Perennials. The season for transplanting peren- nials is not quite as definite as the season for transplanting trees and shrubs. Under normal conditions of cloudy days and good mulch- ing protection to prevent later evaporation perennials can be trans- planted during their growing period, except when they are nearing their maximum of growth and blooming condition. It is preferable, however, to transplant perennials as soon as their maximum growth is completed for the season, and at the time when the newly transplanted material can obtain a slight root growth in its new location before winter conditions commence. There are some types of perennials, as indicated in group No. XL-A, Page 289, which should be transplanted in the fall, and others which should be transplanted in the spring. For most perennial stock, however, there is no difference between fall planting and spring planting, provided the proper time is selected at either season. The principal objection to transplanting perennials in the fall is that in heavy clay soils and in the colder climates the plants, if not carefully mulched during the winter months, are apt to be heaved from their new locations by freezing and thawing. Per- 48 THE COMPLETE GARDEN ennials should never be transplanted when the ground is frozen, even slightly. Do not move perennials when it is impossible to provide the plants with rich topsoil in which to continue growth. Perennials may be "heeled-in" in the same way as other plants, with one differ- ence. Perennials must be removed from the bundles in which they are shipped and each plant "heeled-in" separately. Unless this is done the plants are apt to mildew or rot. Perennials "heeled-in" during warm weather should be covered with a light litter of straw for further pro- tection against drying out. When transplanting perennials, es- pecially those which have been growing for two or more years, it is quite necessary to "divide" them. This operation of dividing plants is explained in the chapter on "Maintenance — Perennials" (Page 88). Dividing should be done whenever the plants become too thick. The reason why many perennials purchased from nurseries do not do well during the first year is because the plants which are sold by the nursery are often the result of too frequent subdividing of the parent plants and the young plants are not given sufficient time to establish themselves before being sold to the prospective purchasers. The result is that those who purchase these plants must wait at least during one growing season before the perennials will develop normal flower growth. No one who is developing for the first time a perennial flower garden should expect a normal development of good flowers from perennials supplied by the average nursery. Such persons should be prepared to wait until the second growing season before expecting a normal flower effect. Transplanting Evergreens. Evergreens should not be trans- planted to a "cold" soil, but rather into a soil that is sufficiently warm to permit root growth to begin immediately and to continue either during the spring and summer or during a period of two or three weeks in the fall before the plants become dormant. The best season for transplanting evergreens, especially in colder climates, is during the spring months, just as new growth is beginning. This is done for the purpose of giving the plants an opportunity to go through one growing season and thereby better to establish themselves to withstand cold weather in their new location. Stable manure which is not thor- oughly rotted should never be placed in contact with or close to the roots of any evergreen plants. Fresh stable manure mixed in any soil where evergreens are to be planted is fatal to the plants. PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 49 When evergreens are shipped from a colder and more backward section to a more advanced growing season in a warmer section of the country- it is usually advisable to transplant in the fall. Evergreens in the opposite-leaved group, comprising the arborvitaes, retinosporas, and junipers, should seldom be transplanted in the fall after the plants begin to shed their leaves. This condition may be recognized when a considerable portion of the leaves throughout the plant turn brown. If it is necessary to transplant evergreens during the fall when the growing season is completed and the ground is subject to light freezing and thawing, the best treatment is to immediately place around each newly transplanted plant a light mulch of stable litter three or four inches in depth. This is done in order to maintain the ground at an even temperature and to keep the soil sufficiently warm so that some root growth will start before freezing conditions develop. It is the general practice, in shipping evergreens, to "ball-and-burlap" them. In this condition evergreens can be shipped for a considerable distance, and if properly wet before being shipped they will remain normal for a period of two or three weeks. As a rule, evergreens for transplanting are grown in a soil which is composed of some clay rather than in a soil which will not hold together around the roots. Rhododendrons. In the northern sections of the United States it is generally assumed that spring planting of rhododendrons is more desirable than fall planting. This is recommended mostly because plants transplanted in the spring have a better opportunity to es- tablish themselves and are less liable to injury during their first winter. If rhododendrons are to be transplanted in the fall, it should be ascertained whether the locality from which the plants are coming has received a normal amount of rainfall prior to the time that the plants are dug. The greatest difficulty in transplanting rhododen- drons is that with insufficient rainfall and a dry season, before the plants are dug, there is insufficient moisture stored in the plants to offset the transpiration caused during the winter months. When material is transplanted in the late fall roots do not seem to make sufficient growth to take up the necessary moisture from the soil, and therefore the plant must carry itself through the winter on the strength of the moisture stored up in the cells. This appears to be the main cause for criticism against the fall planting of rhododendrons. It 50 THE COMPLETE GARDEN should be borne in mind that the roots of rhododendrons and of the kindred plants such as the azaleas, feed near the surface of the ground. For this reason, and also because of the evergreen foliage characteristics some root action should be encouraged, if possible, during the milder winter months, and thus mulching of such plants is vital. Extreme care should be exercised in transplanting these types of plants. Plants should be put in a heavy, well-rotted leaf mold soil at no greater depth than the plant stood before moving from its previous location. It is a common practice in the preparation of lawn areas and planting areas, especially in sections where clay soil predominates, to apply a large amount of lime. Because lime in the soil is an element very injurious to the growth of broad-leaved evergreens, none should ever be put in or close to any beds which are to be planted with rhododendrons. This is also true of building plaster and mortar, which is frequently thrown into the soil adjacent to the foundation of buildings where these plants may later be put. Rhododendrons should never be planted in a location where the soil around the roots will dry out. They should be sheltered from the morning sun and also from extreme exposures of wind. During most of the growing season the falling of the dew as a result of the con- densation of the moisture in the atmosphere causes little globules of water to remain on the surface of the leaves during the night. These particles of moisture are slowly evaporated during the early part of the morning. The rays of the early morning sun coming in direct contact whh the leaves of rhododendrons on which these particles of moisture are still present are concentrated and focused by these many little " lenses" and cause a burning of the surface of the leaves which in the case of rhododendrons is extremely injurious to the plant. This is one of the most important reasons why rhododendrons with their sensi- tive leaf surface should not be exposed to the direct rays of the early morning sun, at least until after the heat of the day has caused an evaporation of the particles of moisture remaining on the leaves from the previous night. The baking out of the soil around the roots is extremely injurious to them. If this soil can be maintained at an even, cool temperature, their normal growth is better assured during the summer. They are not so much injured because of the cold, but because of the intense sun which causes evaporation of moisture from the leaves at a time when the ground is frozen and at a time when the plants are unable to replace this loss of moisture by additional water PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 51 taken through the roots from the soil. This condition is especially true in the clay loam soils of the middle west. They should never be watered with any water which contains lime. This is equally as important as the necessity of not planting rhodo- dendrons in a limestone soil. It matters not how much the soil may be changed in the beds or how much leaf mold may be put in the beds in which to plant rhododendrons if the water with which they are frequently soaked comes from a limestone region. Rhododendrons will grow in any good garden soil, but they much prefer a soil with a good deal of humus in it, and they should be thor- oughly mulched with leaf mold soil which should never be cultivated, but left in its native woodland condition. Transplanting Annuals. It is preferable to transplant annuals in a fine, loose loam, and never to transplant them in a heavier clay soil, which will pack and dry out. Upon the size of the plants will depend the care that it is necessary to give them immediately after trans- planting. The smaller the plants the more care will be required in careful watering and shading during the hot portions of the day. While with proper care annuals may be transplanted at any season during the spring or early summer, yet the late spring (May through June 15th) is preferred. Annuals will develop best outdoors if they are transplanted at least two weeks in advance of the hot summer months. Frequent shifting, in pots or flats, is very beneficial through promoting the growth of fibrous roots which make transplanting more successful. CHAPTER V LAWNS The first part of this chapter treats of conditions in the North and the second part of the chapter treats of conditions in the South. LAWNS FOR THE NORTH Preparation of Lawn Areas. The keynote of success in securing a good lawn is thorough preparation of the area before seeding. Fail- ures are almost invariably due to poor preparation rather than to poor seed. Grading should be finished with a view to seeding either in the early fall or spring. Prepare the soil thoroughly, for the permanence of the sod rests entirely on this initial outlay. The soil should be deep and porous to produce deep rooting of the turf, which means success in combating winter-killing and drought. For the ideal lawn the ground must be prepared to a depth of one foot; but eighteen inches is preferable. If the area is large enough it should be plowed; otherwise spading must be resorted to. When the soil is naturally good and there is ample topsoil (six inches to eight inches) deep plowing without subsoil- ing is sufficient. In heavy soils the clay subsoil should be broken up but not brought to the surface. After plowing, if the area is large enough to permit the use of a team, the soil should be worked fine by harrow- ing. Follow this operation by levelling with shovels and hoes, and finally with rakes. The top layer of soil should be made very fine to induce quick germination of seed and permanency of sod. The average lawn to which the author refers is the lawn developed in the immediate vicinity of the residence. If building operations have extended over the greater portion of this lawn area, as is general on the smaller residence lots, then all of the topsoil should have been stripped and placed in one or more large piles prior to the commencement of any building operations. In the preparation of a lawn area under such conditions it is very advisable to delay actual work upon this area until after that portion of the building operations apt to cause further litter to be thrown over the lawn area is completed. While the ideal lawn 52 LAWNS 5 3 area should have a proper depth of topsoil in which the feeding roots of grass can develop, there are many instances where for purposes of economy or otherwise a sufficient depth of topsoil is not provided. The first step is to determine the depth of topsoil which is to be finally spread over the finished subgrade of the lawn. The less the depth of topsoil the greater will be the cost of future maintenance over a period of years succeeding the first year. The surface of the finished subgrade should be established to conform with the finished grade of the lawn area and at a definite, even depth below this finished grade of this lawn area. No topsoil should be spread over this subgrade until every pre- caution has been taken to be certain that an excessive depth of topsoil will not be necessary where spots of extreme depression can be located in the surface of the subgrade and previously filled. In sections of the country where the subsoil consists of a clay loam and other types of heavy soil the item of providing topsoil for the preparation of the lawn area is one of the most expensive items in the landscape development of the property. Experience has shown that topsoil is one of the items which is often subjected to the greatest amount of waste, and it should be carefully conserved and not used, in any instance, except to the correct depth as required. When the subgrade is completed and previous to the application of any topsoil it is often well, especially on types of clay soil, to apply a coat- ing of lime at the rate of not more than twenty-five pounds to every 1,000 square feet. On the top of this, a layer of well-rotted manure at the rate of one cubic yard for every five hundred square feet should be applied. The lime and manure should then be spaded or harrowed into this finished surface of the subgrade and the final surface smoothed with shovels or rakes before the final layer of topsoil is applied. This thor- ough preparation of the subgrade is much more essential if a shallow depth (two inches to three inches of topsoil) is to be used. It is not so essential if a more generous depth (four inches to six inches of topsoil) is to be used. Fertilizer For Lawn Preparation. In the preparation of a lawn area the problem of correctly fertilizing this area is an important one. On the less fertile and poor types of soil a liberal application of well-rotted manure together with lime should be spread. Manure should be used at the rate of one cubic yard for each five hundred square feet and lime should be used at the rate of between twelve and twenty- 54 THE COMPLETE GARDEN five pounds to each 1,000 square feet. On the heavy types of soil this •manure should be of a light texture containing sufficient straw, while on the sandy soil this manure should be of a heavy texture containing a quantity of humus. If the preparation of a lawn area is undertaken at least one year previous to the time that the actual seeding of the lawn is to be done then the heavy types of soil can be made more fertile and more porous by the development, during each spring and fall, of a cover crop of clover, cow peas, vetch, or rye. The deep roots of these plants and the frequent cultivation caused by plowing them under will do much to produce a mellow and friable condition of the soil. On the very heavy types of soil the frequent mistake is made of spreading a heavy coating of well-rotted manure over the surface of the proposed lawn area and plowing this under to a depth of ten inches to twelve inches. On the average lawn this is a great mistake, and a consider- able waste of time and money. Such lawns should be plowed thor- oughly, the soil made loose, and the surface pulverized as much as is practical with a disc harrow. A heavy coating of manure at the rate of one cubic yard to one and one-half cubic yards to each five hundred square feet should then be applied and harrowed into the soil. By this method the available food in the fertilizer is within reach of normal root growth of grass while under the other method such portions of the ma- nure as are plowed to a considerable depth (ten inches to twelve inches at least) are beyond the reach of normal root growth of lawn grasses and soon become imbedded in a heavy soil impervious to root growth. On the average lawn a top-dressing of manure at the rate of one- half to three-fourths cubic yards to five hundred square feet, of sheep manure at the rate of five pounds for each one hundred square feet or of bone meal at the rate of five pounds for each two hundred and fiifty square feet, should be applied and raked into the surface of the lawn. Manure, whenever used, especially in the preparation of lawns in the spring, should be well rotted in order to avoid so far as possible the presence of persistent weed seeds (such weeds as grow after the lawn is seeded). Bone meal and the types of dried manures commonly pur- chased on the market in bags do not bring into the lawn this objec- tionable feature. On the other hand, such concentrated fertilizers do not provide the humus which may be almost as essential as the food contained in the fertilizers. Drainage of Lawn Area. A part of the preparation of all lawns LAWNS 5 s which are constructed upon the heavy types of soil should consist of correct drainage in order to secure surface conditions conducive to the growth of good lawn grasses and to provide a firm texture to the lawn. Subsoil plowing is sometimes done with the object of correct- ing soil water conditions. This is not permanent, however, because the soil will pack down again within a few years. Before the topsoil is applied over the subgrade all necessary tile drainage should be installed at a depth averaging from twenty-four inches to thirty inches below the finished grade of the lawn and at intervals approximating from fifteen feet to twenty-five feet between lines of tile. This interval often depends upon the expense which the owner feels justified in making to procure an ideal lawn surface. Seeding of Lawns. A general rule is to sow in April and May; or September and October (See Plate III). It is but seldom that sowing in June or July is successful. If sown before the fall rains, grass should become sufficiently developed to withstand the winter weather. It is generally preferable to sow seed in the fall. If the soil is prop- erly prepared in the fall, seed may be sown on a light fall of snow in the spring. The seed will sink in as the snow melts and will germi- nate very quickly. As a general rule a lawn seeded in the fall will develop to better advantage with less maintenance cost than a lawn seeded in the spring, because any weed seed present in the grass seed will germinate and most of the weeds will be destroyed during the winter months; while if the same seed is sown in the spring it is neces- sary to remove these weeds by pulling them before they go to seed. Seed should be sown at the rate of eighty pounds to one hundred pounds to the acre, or one quart to three hundred square feet. Always sow thick. Choose a day when the soil is moist, when there is little or no wind, and when the weather is comparatively cool. Seed is scattered broadcast by hand, and the hand must be kept low. Go over the area in narrow rectangular sections marked out, sowing one-half the seed; then repeat the process, walking at right angles to the previous course followed. After sowing, the ground should be raked lightly and rolled thoroughly. Very young grass must be safeguarded against drought by frequent and deep watering. Wherever lawns are to be developed under large shade trees, such as maples, oaks, beeches, etc., great care should be used and the work of seeding should be completed at the earliest possible date in the fall. 56 THE COMPLETE GARDEN It is not practicable to seed lawns late in the fall where large trees drop leaves which if not removed within one or two days are apt to smother the young grass. This is an important point to keep in mind. The best grass generally for the foundation of a lawn, except on acid soil, is Kentucky blue grass. This does not fully mature until the third year. It is better, therefore, to use Kentucky blue grass in a mixture. Other grasses such as redtop and the creeping bents will produce a quicker effect and will keep out the weeds until the blue grass is fully established. Kentucky blue grass during the first year grows thinly, and continues to become thicker with successive mowings. When it is fully established it will crowd out some of the less per- manent grasses in the mixture. The ideal lawn is one composed mostly of blue grass and it is also the most difficult to establish. Many people who wish to develop a good lawn in a short space of time resort to the use of a considerable portion of white clover. Clover is of no real value in the making of a fine lawn other than that it helps to produce a quick effect, thereby crowding out many early weeds, and that it produces a soft carpet effect with little difficulty, where the process of establishing a permanent lawn of blue grass might be slow. The immediate development of a carpet of green over the surface of a lawn area is no indication that a permanent lawn has been es- tablished. The construction of a permanent lawn which requires only a normal expense in future maintenance involves not only the question of selection of grass seed of permanent types but also questions of ade- quate drainage, especially on heavy types of soil, and thorough prepara- tion of the subsoil and the topsoil as a foundation of the lawn. Un- fortunately many persons ignorant of the real requirements of a permanent lawn give much credit to those persons who are able, by the use of quick growing and temporary types of grass seed together with clover seed, and quick-acting fertilizers such as sheep manure (which soon releases all of its food value and leaves the lawn in an unfertile condition), to succeed in producing an immediate effect of greensward in a remarkably short time. The permanent and desirable types of grasses will not develop within such a short period, and lawns of this temporary character, while exceedingly satisfactory during the first year, will usually prove unsatisfactory and expensive in their main- tenance cost during the succeeding years. Not only do certain types of grasses die out due to the nature of the grass and the lack of proper food supply but the lawn is seriously injured during the hot summer LAWNS 57 because of the shallow depth of topsoil that causes feeding roots to remain near the surface of the ground. The various grass mixtures on the market vary in quality rather than in kind. It is inadvisable to buy poor seed. Many mixtures contain a large percentage of "chaff," and some mixtures contain more or less weed seed. It is highly desirable that any one responsible for the development of a good lawn should be able to identify the im- portant types of good seed in lawn mixtures. Of the various grass seeds used the fescue and the clovers produce a quick effect during the first year. The most common and satisfactory lawn seed mixture for the northern states is sixteen parts by weight of Kentucky blue grass, four parts of recleaned redtop, and one part of white clover. It should be used at the rate of one pound to each three hundred square feet of lawn or one hundred and twenty pounds per acre. The Kentucky blue grass is adapted to the northeastern states and the northwestern coast. It thrives on limy soil and will occasionally grow on land devoid of lime if the drainage is extra good. It makes a dense, vivid green turf except during midsummer when it is adversely affected by hot weather. It should not be confused with Canada blue grass which produces a tough but not dense or attractive turf and sometimes succeeds where the soil is too thin for Kentucky blue grass. Redtop succeeds under a very large range of soil conditions, from drought to wet land. It is one of the best grasses for poor soils throughout the whole of the eastern United States and thus succeeds where blue grass fails. It does not make a dense turf unless planted thickly and mowed closely. White clover as a turf plant succeeds on poor soils, forms a dense, close mat, and stands mowing well. If Kentucky blue grass is sown alone one hundred and fifty pounds per acre are required and liming is beneficial. If redtop is seeded alone forty pounds of fancy "recleaned" seed per acre are sufficient and no lime is needed. Clover is never sown in a clean stand but may be sown with or after grass seed at the rate of ten pounds of seed per acre. For a fine turf similar to putting greens, use Chewing's or New Zealand red fescue, which is a grass having a dark green colour and which makes a solid, compact turf. It is particularly adapted to sowing on sandy loam soil but succeeds well on clay loam or even on clays. When seeded alone one hundred pounds per acre should be used. It is the best lawn grass for growing in the shade under American conditions. Another fine-leaved grass making a dense, velvety turf is creeping bent. It does 58 THE COMPLETE GARDEN best where the summers are cool and moist; that is, in the northeastern states and on the northwest coast. When the soil is limy, other grasses, such as blue grass and white clover, tend to crowd out creeping I bent. It should be sown alone except that combined with red fescue it will be satisfactory for a few years, after which the two grasses tend to separate and make circular mats. There are standard mixtures on the market offered by the more reliable firms for special uses such as on golf greens, fairways, and shady locations. In the section south of Washington, D. C, except in the higher altitudes, it is not advisable to use Kentucky blue grass. White clover, in this section of the country, becomes the prevailing grass in lawns. In the northern part of this area, white clover, redtop, and Rhode Island bent make an excellent lawn, but not a lawn as per- manent in character as the northern turf. Sodding. Sodding instead of seeding has the following advantages: (i) grass of a known texture can be obtained; (2) an immediate stand of grass is secured ; (3) sod can be laid at any season except when the ground is frozen. The disadvantages, however, are quite numerous: (1) a seeded lawn is as good and generally is better within a year; (2) the expense of sodding a lawn is great; (3) it is usually difficult to procure good sod; (4) sod will heave on heavy soils if laid too late in the fall; (5) it is difficult to get perfect unions between sods. Sod is generally used along the edges of walks, borders, banks, and close to buildings, when seeding an area; and also on areas such as terraces and laundry yards which are to be used immediately. The preparation of a lawn for sodding is the same as for seeding. Sod should be laid on a firm foundation; that is, the soil should be thor- oughly tamped before any sod is placed upon it. The best sod is secured from pastures which are on a heavy type of soil. Pasture turf is cropped and therefore forms a dense growth which can be removed in thin layers. Cut the sod about one and one-half inches hick, twelve inches wide, and three feet long. A foot-wide board should be laid on the turf and the strips cut along either side with an edger. The sod is lifted with a spade or preferably with a turfing iron. The strips are rolled up, grass side in, and should be relaid as soon as possible. When laying sod, fill the junctions with fine soil and then beat it down with the back of a spade or with a sod pounder, LAWNS 59 remembering that it cannot be pounded too hard. After being laid, sod must be cared for carefully throughout the summer. LAWNS FOR THE SOUTH Soil and Climatic Conditions. The extreme heat and the long dry spells during the summer months throughout the southern states make it inadvisable to try to establish a turf similar to the turf of the northern lawns, composed mostly of Kentucky blue grass, redtop, clovers, and bents. These grasses, when used in the south for a lawn turf, will completely burn out during the summer months unless an abnormal amount of labour is employed to protect them by excessive waterings. While in the northern section of the country lawns in general are developed on good loam or topsoil, the soil conditions of the south are somewhat different. The soil throughout the south, es- pecially in Florida, is generally known as yellow or clay sand on which lawns can be developed with the least difficulty, and the white sand which contains little or no plant food and on which no satisfactory lawn can be developed without the addition of a considerable quantity of muck. The "topsoil" sand, so-called, often possesses a considerable quantity of food matter; but the ease with which water drains from it combined with the heat of summer will cause the northern types of grasses to burn out and also will kill many of the southern types of grasses. To one who has been accustomed to the sharp line of differentia- tion between the topsoils and subsoils of the north the problem of drawing a definite line between the topsoil and subsoil under the condi- tions of the far south is somewhat puzzling. As a matter of fact, on all soils, with the exception of a good type of muck soil coming from the swampy areas and the hammock land, no good lawn can be developed without the addition of considerable fertilizer. In the north the value of a lawn continues only during the growing season, from April until October. In the south, especially through- out the section visited by many of the northern tourists, temperature conditions are favourable for the growing of a lawn throughout the entire winter. It is therefore desirable to have types of grasses for the development of lawn areas both during the winter months and the summer months. The excessive cost of maintaining a good turf on lawn areas during the hot and dry summer months has discouraged the development of extensive lawn areas as seen in the northern states, 6o THE COMPLETE GARDEN except on golf courses, where the fairways and greens are maintained regardless of normal cost. Little experimenting has been done in the far south to determine individual types or combinations of types of northern grasses which will thrive best under these climatic conditions both during the winter months and the summer months. Types of Grasses for Lawns. There are three groups of grasses which are used for the development of lawns in the far south (through- out Georgia, Alabama, and Florida). The first group consists of the more or less native grasses, Bermuda grass, St. Augustine grass, and blanket or carpet grass. These grasses will not make a perfect turf as a "perfect turf" is known in the northern states. They grow vigorously and spread rapidly when the temperature does not fall below 50 or 55 degrees. The second group, of which Ross's Southern Mixture is typical, is composed of types of northern grasses, such as orchard grass, Rhode Island bent, redtop, and a small portion of Italian rye, which as a result of experiments have produced good turf on southern lawns. The third group is made up of Italian rye, which germinates quickly and produces a green turf and lives for but a short period during the cooler winter months. It burns out quickly during the hot summer months. Types of Soils. In the preparation and development of lawn areas, especially on virgin soil, the land must be cleared and the stumps removed. It is preferable that stumps should either be pulled out by tractor or team, chopped out, or in the instance of pine lands, they should be burned out. The operation of blasting stumps, in order to remove them, leaves a considerable hole, which, when filled with loose soil, however thoroughly tamped, may cause a depression in the lawn on account of later settling. After the land is cleared and the stumps are removed, the lawn is brought to an even grade, and unless the soil is a rich yellow " topsoil " sand, it is advisable to spread a layer of muck, averaging from two to four inches in depth, over the entire lawn area. A deeper covering of muck would be better. The cost of excessive "mucking" is often the determining factor. This muck, which usually comes from the swamps, should be selected with great care. Not all so-called "muck" soil in swamps is adapted for use on lawns. It is often the case that swamp muck put on a high, dry, and sandy LAWNS 61 soil will, under the sun's rays, quickly dry out and become pow- dery. It is best to obtain, if possible, a sandy muck or black soil of a vegetable nature and not of a woody nature. This can be obtained from the edges of the hammock lands. This type of muck does not dry out. Good muck, taken from the upper layers of swamp areas, ought to be mixed thoroughly with a generous amount of lime and the entire mixture ought to remain for two or three months before it is applied to the lawn area. The mucks to be avoided are the woody and very sour types, Planting and Seeding Lawns. The season for making a lawn varies with the kind of a lawn which is desired, and also with the season of the year when the lawn is to be used. Especially in the far southern states, some lawns may be intended for use and enjoyment throughout the entire year, while another group of lawns may be in- tended to be at their best during the winter months. With the lawn developed from Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass the period required for the development of a good turf averages from three months to four months. Therefore, if a lawn of this type is to be developed as a lawn to be maintained throughout the entire year the Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass can be planted at any time. The ideal time just prior to the rainy season in June or July should be selected so that the roots of this grass can have the benefit of the heavy rains. If a lawn of this character is to be developed as an asset to a distinctly winter home, and artificial watering condi- tions are immediately available, the Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass can be planted at any time during the growing season. It is not advisable to plant either of these grasses during the winter months from December to February when temperature conditions are apt to be so low that growth is not encouraged. On the other hand, Italian rye, which is distinctly a grass for winter lawns, cannot be seeded to advantage in the summer months from April to October. Lawns composed of Italian rye may be seeded at any time of the year from the first of November to the first of March. The time re- quired for Italian rye to establish itself, and to produce a green lawn area, averages from three to five weeks. An excellent way in which to obtain a green lawn during the winter months is to seed a Bermuda grass lawn, which is at least three months old, with Italian rye at the rate of one pound for every one hundred square feet. In the middle and 62 THE COMPLETE GARDEN southern portions of Florida this is perhaps the most satisfactory method of making a good turf which will be more or less firm and which will be green through the winter months. Italian rye will burn out as soon as the weather begins to get warmer during the middle or latter part of March, and can be reseeded on the foundation of Bermuda grass, in the same manner, during the succeeding fall. Lawns composed of the northern mixtures of grass seed, of which the Ross's Southern Mixture is typical, can be seeded at any time during the cooler months between November and March. These lawns may be maintained in the same manner that any northern lawn is maintained if an excessive amount of care in watering is devoted to them during the hot summer months. It is preferable to reseed each season. This type of lawn is prepared and seeded in a manner similar to the lawns of the north and will establish itself under normal condi- tions in a period ranging from four to six weeks. This seed is sown at the rate of one pound for each two hundred square feet of lawn area. The operation of seeding lawns with mixtures of northern seed adapted for southern use, and also with Italian rye, is the same as sowing seed for the development of lawns in the north. It is not advisable to try to develop Bermuda grass and St. Augustine grass lawns through seeding. A better lawn can be obtained with less difficulty by planting small clumps of Bermuda grass and St. Augustine grass (Plate VIII) in little drills ten inches or twelve inches apart or by staggering at intervals of twelve inches to eighteen inches. The greater the desire to have a close mat of Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass the closer should the individual roots be planted. For small lawn areas, tees and greens on golf courses where the time is short in which to develop a good turf, these roots or clumps may be planted as close as six inches from each other. The usual method is to find a patch al- ready growing. The best method of gathering Bermuda grass is to dig underneath the roots with a grub axe or mattock and to gather up the roots with some type of a fork, such as a potato fork. As much soil as possible should be taken up with the roots, where the grass is naturally in rich, fertile soil; otherwise the soil can be shaken from the roots. The best method of handling these roots is to place the entire mass in potato sacks, especially if the source of gathering the grass is at a considerable distance from the place where the lawn is being made. Just previous to planting, the grass should be either torn apart leaving roots and tops on the same stem, or it should be -Q CO .5 c * 3 2 « +- 1 > c O *? " £ CO o re _c re re _c O o 4-1 c r~ , a Q o* u O bfl 0) 3 4-1 IT! ^ CO CD a° 0) S w H « re* b£ a, x'- w ►J a, - C V3 re "— ' c o i-i w 3 re re u Plate XI. The list of evergreens adapted to soil and to climatic condi- tions of the middle-west, and valuable for low, refined, mass plantings is limited. The upper photograph shows an effect produced by the use of dwarf yew, Pfitzers and tamarisk-leaved junipers, Mugho pines and Japanese spurge edging. The lower photograph shows the effectiveness of masses of low, re- fined evergreens against massive architecture. (See page 114) LAWNS 63 chopped into small sections. The first method is preferable. These sections of roots or small clumps are planted from three to six inches deep; more shallow if the soil is moist. Shallow planting should be adopted only where ideal conditions exist for keeping the soil moist. It requires approximately three cubic yards of these roots to plant one acre of lawn. If the roots are contained in two and one half bushel sacks it will require from one hundred and forty to one hun- dred and fifty of these sacks filled with Bermuda grass roots to plant one acre of lawn, or approximately one sack for each two hundred and twenty-five square feet. These roots of Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass should not be permitted to dry out, either while piled waiting for shipment or while in transit to the place where the lawn is being made. Injury from the drying out of the roots of these plants between the time they are dug and the time they are planted is not nearly so serious as the injury caused by heating or sweating while the plants are still in the sacks. If these plants are allowed to heat or sweat they immediately turn yellow, begin to rot and die. Any plants that have been subjected to this heating or sweating process should not be planted. If the lawn which is to be developed is large, then a simple method of planting these grasses is to spread them broadcast over the ground and to disc the roots in with a harrow, or to plow a shallow furrow and plant the roots in the furrows. The discing process has sometimes proved a failure. It requires approximately twice as much grass and roots as the planting in furrows, in order to get the same stand of grass. It is a process, however, which can well be adopted where an immediate even stand of grass is not essential. This is true because in the process of planting in furrows the grass can be more evenly dis- tributed at a shallow depth while in the discing process most of the grass finds itself at a considerable depth, thus requiring more time for the grass to reach the surface. The Italian rye lasts only during one season. The Bermuda grass and St. Augustine grass will make a lawn nearly as permanent as any northern lawn, provided the proper maintenance and attention in rolling and watering is given. Lawns of these types should be watered at least once in ten days or two weeks, at which intervals they should be thoroughly soaked. In order to maintain a Bermuda grass lawn in its best condition the lawn should go through the process of renovation every second or third year. This process consists of a discing, done for the purpose of cutting the roots and producing new 64 THE COMPLETE GARDEN stoloniferous growth. The harrow should be permitted to cut this ground to a considerable depth, so as to encourage new root growth as well as a deeper root growth. Probably the average depth which the harrow cuts approximates from two to four inches. The ideal harrow for this purpose is known as the alfalfa renovator which is used for the purpose of cutting a deep furrow into the soil rather than disturbing the soil. If the lawn area is composed of a combination of Bermuda grass and Italian rye, or of a southern mixture of northern grass seed, it should be thoroughly soaked with water as often as once every two days. Superficial watering under conditions of hot sun and dry climate is more injurious to the southern lawn than a similar watering would be to a northern lawn. Where an excellent lawn turf is desired from November to April, it is much preferable to top dress the Bermuda grass foundation with a thin coating of muck, or rich soil, and to seed each fall with Italian rye as a filler. If a lawn of northern grasses is to be maintained from November to April, experience to date has taught us that the most practical method is that of reseeding the entire lawn area during the middle or latter part of October, or early November, rather than to expend the labour necessary to maintain a turf during the hot summer months when it is not used. CHAPTER VI BULB CULTURE Characteristics of Bulbs. A bulb is a large dormant bud, and is a condensed plant when dormant. Bulbs can develop only flowers which were formed within them before they were ripened. The dormant period of a bulb occurs in order to carry it over the dry or cold season. A good bulb must be fully developed, in good soil, and under good conditions. It must be kept from heating, sweating, or rotting in transit, and must not be kept out of the ground so long as to dry out to an injurious extent. When buying bulbs always take into consideration that cheap bulbs are invariably poor bulbs and that size alone does not count, but adds to the probability that the bulb is mature. Plump, solid bulbs give the best blooms, and if to this is added size, the bulb is ideal. There are two groups of bulbs: those which should be planted in the fall to produce flowers in the spring, such as tulips, narcissi, and crocuses, and those which should be planted in the spring to pro- duce flowers in the summer and early fall, such as gladioli. (In botanical science in the case of the gladiolus the term is "corm" rather than "bulb.") Time for Planting Bulbs. Nothing is gained by planting spring- flowering bulbs, such as tulips, narcissi, crocuses, hyacinths, squills, and Spanish irises, before September or October. The reason for planting, then, is that they keep better in the ground, and as they start to root in the fall they begin growth earlier in the spring. It is hardly possible to plant bulbs of this group early enough in the spring to secure any flowers the same season. These bulbs should be planted not earlier than six weeks before the hard frosts. Narcissi may be planted earlier, and it is preferable to plant crocuses early. Crocuses are usually planted in the lawn. An early bloom is desirable; therefore early September planting permits root growth in the fall and the 65 66 THE COMPLETE GARDEN flowers mature and pass before the grass requires cutting. Bulbs, in order to make some root growth in the fall, should not be planted very late. Autumn-flowering sorts, such as the colchicum and the saffron crocus, may be planted in August or early September, if well protected, but if planted in the spring should be set out after danger from frost is past. Narcissi and hyacinths are planted preferably early in October, while tulips, particularly the late-blooming, may wait till November. If the ground begins to freeze hard before the bulbs can be planted it should be kept warm by a litter of straw or leaves. Such a blanket spread over frozen ground early in the winter will enable the heat within the earth to thaw it out and permit quite late planting. If bulbs are planted late it is well to cover them with mulch at once in order that root growth may be made before the cold prevents it. If the bulbs are planted early in the fall, however, the mulch should be applied only after the ground has been frozen to a depth of several inches. Thus excessive top growth will not start prematurely. Gladiolus bulbs should be planted in the spring after the fro sts are over. The period required for such bulbs to mature is about ninety days. Therefore, a succession of bloom can be obtained by planting at intervals of ten days or two weeks. Under expert care, in well-drained soils and with sufficient protection, many gladiolus bulbs can be planted in the fall and thereby insure a very much earlier bloom in the summer. This should at first be tried only with extreme caution, and the plants will need protection from spring frosts. Soil and Drainage Requirements. Bulbs should be planted in a well-drained, deep, rich soil in order to develop successfully. In wet soils put a handful of sand under each bulb to keep the water away from the immediate vicinity of the bulbs. In wet locations the beds should be raised. Hyacinths require a sandy soil and soon become diseased in heavy soils. Few lilies will succeed in limestone soil. Lilies require extra good drainage and rich soil. Some will do well in heavy soil, as the madonna lily and the tiger lily. It is best to sur- round lily bulbs with sand, and where drainage is not ideal, plant the bulbs on one side so that water may not collect in the heart of the bulb. Fertilizers for Bulbs. No fresh manure should ever touch a bulb, but well-rotted manure may be incorporated deep in the soil before planting with the best of results. The manure should be ac- BULB CULTURE 6 7 cessible to the feeding roots but be kept away from the bulb. Do not use manure at all unless the bed is excavated to a depth that makes it possible to spade the manure in below the level on which the bulbs are to rest. Tulips are less apt to be injured by manure than are narcissi. For planting with a trowel or dibble, bone meal only should be used. Leaf mold and sand should be added to heavy soils. Bone meal used with bulbs tends to increase the size of the blooms. Liquid manure, added liberally when the plants are budding, has often given excellent results. To increase the development of new bulblets and especially of gladioli, a fertilizer containing a large percentage of potash is desirable. Depth for Planting Bulbs. Unless a bed of bulbs is planted at uniform depth they will not bloom uniformly. It is a good practice to excavate a bed to a given depth, place the bulbs as desired over the bottom, and then cover all to the same depth, thus making certain that they are evenly planted. The larger and stronger bulbs are, the deeper they may be planted. They may be planted deeper in sandy soil than in heavy clay soil. A general rule for planting depth is three times the average diameter of the bulb. Bulbs are frequently planted too shallow. For depths at which to plant bulbs, also distances apart, see "Bulb Table" (Plate IX, Page 46). When planted in holes made with a dibble, put loose dirt or sand in the bottom of the hole to avoid air space. Planting with trowel or dibble, however, should not be done where uniform show beds are desired. For lawns, bulbs may be dibbled in, but it is better to cut the sod and press back after planting. This is done in the fall when lawns are soft from rains. Mulching Bulbs. Bulbs lie dormant, to all appearances, over winter, and should be thoroughly mulched to insure that they do not start to grow in any unseasonable warm spell of weather, and also in order to prevent heaving. Mulch with straw or leaves to a depth of four inches to six inches, but do not add this mulch too early; wait till a fairly thick crust has been frozen over the ground. Lilies always require heavy protection and will succeed better in partial shade. Remove the mulch or litter in spring before warm weather and after damage from freezing is past. The coarse part of the mulch should be picked off carefully, care being taken not to injure the tops of 68 THE COMPLETE GARDEN the bulbs. The finer pieces of mulch may be worked into the soil, if the cultivating is done cautiously. Reproduction of Bulbs. Many bulbs, like the varieties of crocus and certain varieties of narcissi, will continue to multiply by devel- oping small bulblets and in that way produce a flower effect for a considerable number of years. Other bulbs, like certain varieties of the tulips and other varieties of narcissi, will have their energy sapped during the first one or two years. They will not reproduce bulblets and the result is that in order to continue the flower effect new bulbs must be purchased and planted in their place at the end of two or three years. Spanish iris and also the English iris will, under ideal conditions of soil and cultivation, continue to develop new bulbs and to multiply. For this reason they can be left in the ground during a number of years. In cutting flowers from bulbs it is quite necessary that some leaf surface should remain after the flower stalk has been removed. This leaf surface provides a "stomach" for the plant, in which digestive functions continue and new food is supplied to the bulb for the purpose of enlarging it and for the purpose of forming new bulblets. The gladiolus is the best example of bulbs which are reproduced in the average garden by new bulblets. Many varieties of gladioli, however, will not reproduce bulblets if the flowers are re- moved. None of the varieties of the gladiolus will produce new bulblets or make strong bulbs if, when the flowers are cut, all of the leaves are removed. Treatment of Bulbs After Flowering. Bulbs will not ripen if the tops are cut very soon after flowering. For best results, do not remove the tops before late June, or until leaves turn brown. When cutting flowers cut as few leaves as possible, and do not cut the entire stem of a lily. Never lift any bulbs, if it is possible to wait, before the tops are brown and limp. If bulbs must be removed to make way for other plants, take roots, top and all — some soil also with the roots. Heel-in, not too close together, in a shady spot until the tops commence to die. Autumn-flowering bulbs also should be allowed to ripen be- fore removal for winter storage. Oftentimes it becomes necessary in the renovating of the flower garden to dig up bulbs during the month of September or October. This is not desirable. Wherever it is foreseen that the soil in the BULB CULTURE 69 flower beds must be spaded over and refertilized in the fall, all bulbs should be removed in the late spring and stored in the usual manner in a cool, dry, dark place in the cellar or shed until time to plant them in the fall. If it is necessary to dig up bulbs in the fall after some root growth has started, then these bulbs should be taken up with some soil attached to the roots. They should be kept moist and replanted just as soon as practical. They should never be left to dry out because after the root growth has once started this drying out of the roots is likely to cause considerable injury to the bulbs. Only such perma- nent sorts as the tulips, especially the Darwins, narcissi, and the lilies will as a rule repay the trouble entailed. Hyacinths seldom can be depended upon for good bloom after the first display, in any event, and are thus hardly worth the trouble of replanting. In the eastern states and in the Middle West root growth in bulbs hardly ever starts before the latter part of September because the dry months of late summer keep the bulbs dormant until the fall rains. When replanting of bulbs is done after September 15th, a good mulch of straw manure put on to keep the frost out of the ground as long as possible is essential. Of lilies, in the case of the foreign and the hybridized, it is practically useless, in general, to try to prolong life and to improve bloom from year to year by taking the bulbs up annually. Careful study and ex- perimenting are necessary to determine what kinds it is best to plant. The tiger lily, the speciosum, white and pink-dotted, and the madonna lily are managed easily and the native lilies are apt to be permanent, if given their natural conditions. The one named last should be planted early in the autumn or even late in the summer, not more than two or three inches deep and in heavy or somewhat clayey soil. The bulbs of this and of the others-named here may be taken up every few years, as they increase in number, and be replanted in fresh soil. The bulbs of nearly all lilies except notably the madonna may be kept over winter packed in moss or sand and stored in a cool place where they will not freeze. Then they can be successfully planted in the spring (Con- sult XXXIII-F, Page 253). Narcissi are best left undisturbed for several years. It is best to allow crocuses and early tulips to run out, unless the tulips are wanted for formal effects. All tulips, like hyacinths, yield most satisfactory bloom if they are taken up annually and replanted at the proper season. Only the larger bulbs should be planted, where uniformity of effect is 7 o THE COMPLETE GARDEN desired, while the smaller ones may be planted apart by themselves to increase in size. Late tulips often do very well undisturbed for three, four, or five years. Crocuses, squills, and narcissi may be naturalized, especially if care is taken not to cut the tops too closely or too soon after blooming. This is one of the strong arguments in favour of planting crocus bulbs in September. The tops will have then matured before spring mowing begins. After the bulbs of any kind have been lifted, and the tops are dried, these tops should be carefully trimmed off and the bulbs stored in a dark, cool place until time for replanting. Plant bulbs in combinations as shown under "Bulbs." Learn which are late flowering and which are early; also which varieties are tall and which are short. Choose lilies that are easy to grow and select varieties that have proved successful. Forcing Bulbs. Bulbs are grown extensively, both privately and commercially, for cut flowers, and for indoor use during the winter season. It is not hard to achieve success in forcing bulbs if two important rules are observed, namely: I. Procure the strongest and best bulbs possible, for good care will improve the quality of the flowers but not the quantity. The latter is always fixed within the bulb before it is purchased. 2. Perfect root development must be insured before the tops are permitted to start growth. The bulbs should be planted as soon as they are procurable, with late August and November as limits. The soil to use should be rich loam mixed with bone meal in a one to fifty proportion. If the soil is keavy add leaf mold or sand. It is better to avoid manure unless it is thoroughly rotted and pulverized. Five-inch pots may be used for larger bulbs, such as hyacinths; and a three or four-inch pot for one tulip or any bulb other than a hyacinth bulb of large size. It is better, however, to plant three or more bulbs in a larger pot, as soil moisture and temperature are more evenly maintained. When being forced for cut flowers, bulbs are planted in boxes or flats of a depth of three inches to four inches, with the bulbs set from one inch to two inches apart. This is a good way to grow bulbs for decoration also, since the flats can be covered with crepe paper, raffia mats, etc., when the flowers are in bloom. Broken pottery or charcoal should be put in the bottom of the pots for drainage. The soil is then sifted into the BULB CULTURE 71 pot or flat, but not packed, and the bulb is so planted that the top is just below the surface. Do not press the bulbs down. After planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil firmly about the bulb and do not water again until the top growth starts unless the pots or flats are stored in a place where they will dry out. After being planted, the bulbs must be stored away in order that they may root properly, because rooting is the most important phase in successful bulb forcing. There are several methods of storage: 1. Place the pots, flats, etc., in a cold frame or cold pit and cover with four inches of sand, rotted leaves, or ashes. Put on the sash when freezing weather arrives and open on pleasant days. 2. Pots may be placed in a cool, dark cellar, and will keep well if the soil is kept moist but not wet. The danger here is from drying out if they are not watched at frequent intervals. 3. A better method is to dig a trench one foot deep, put in three inches of ashes for drainage and to keep out worms; put in the pots and fill the trench with soil. During freezing weather cover with rough stable manure, leaves, or straw, to a depth of four inches. 4. Pots may be set out and covered with eight inches or ten inches of leaves, filling in between the pots with soil to maintain moisture. Early bulbs, such as paper white narcissi and Roman hyacinths? will root sufficiently in a period of six weeks. It is much better, how- ever, to leave bulbs in storage for a period of eight weeks. Spanish iris bulbs require a longer period for the formation of root growth than most of the other bulbs. This group is probably the most difficult group to force successfully. They should remain buried in the cold frame or in the pit, with all top growth retarded, until a complete root system is established. When ample roots are formed and about one inch of top growth has appeared, it is time to lift all bulbs and remove them to a semi-dark cellar where they may be kept in a cool temperature with little light to encourage the immediate development of stems and foliage. Avoid, at this period, direct sun- light. After a reasonable amount of growth is secured, place the pots where desired. Bulbs should be taken out of storage in relays to provide a succession of bloom. There are very few types of bulbs which are adapted for forcing in water. The paper white narcissus is best adapted to this type of forcing. A few of the other types of narcissus may be grown in this way, and occasionally early single tulips, Spanish irises, and crocuses 72 THE COMPLETE GARDEN can be successfully forced in water. The best method of forcing bulbs in water is that of setting each bulb in a shallow receptacle, partially filled with sand or coarse gravel, and keeping the water just even or slightly below the base of the bulb. These bulbs should then be kept in a dark, cool place for at least six weeks, and the receptacle should be frequently filled with water, which must always be clear and fresh. After the bulbs have commenced to root they may be treated in the same way as bulbs forced in soil. Bulbs which have been forced in any manner are of no value for forcing during the second year. Such bulbs should be allowed to ripen their foliage by setting the pots or flats in a cool, light place, and providing them with sufficient water to keep the bulb from drying out until the top growth has ripened and begins to die. These bulbs may then be set in the open ground at the proper time in the autumn and they will produce some flowers during the succeeding year. It is seldom that they will recover their vigour sufficiently to be of value for the purpose of forcing during the second or third year. CHAPTER VII MAINTENANCE* Requirements. The maintenance of trees, shrubs, and vines, since they are almost invariably planted where they are expected to re- main permanently, presents fewer difficulties than the care of perennial plantings, except where plants become diseased or subject to insect attack. Maintenance is confined mostly to cultivation, feeding, water- ing, pruning, and spraying. Trees — Tree Surgery. Pruning has been discussed in Chapter III, but there is an analogous practice often followed by "tree doc- tors," namely, the scraping of bark from trees, which should be touched on here. The main object and accomplishment of tree scraping seems to be the providing of work for "tree doctors" during dull seasons. The ultimate consequences to the tree are seldom beneficial, and often fatal. Instances have occurred where handsome shade trees were scraped down to the cambium by ignorant "doctors" and promptly died. The outer bark of trees is placed by nature as a protective covering and should not be removed, except in the case of those trees, such as hickory and plane tree, which naturally shed bark in large scales, and then only when these scales are harbouring insects which cannot be otherwise destroyed. The criticism of the so- called tree doctors is, however, not intended in the least to discredit really expert tree surgeons nor to discourage the employing of them. Quite to the contrary, it should be noted that these men can render most valuable service and that often a greatly prized tree can be saved for many years and its growth greatly improved by having it wisely cared for. The supporting of branches where a crotch might cause a splitting of large limbs is too often neglected. The removing of broken branches often prevents decay from entering into the heart of the tree. The taking out of crossing limbs often makes possible a symmetry of development that otherwise would never be realized. *See also Chapter III on "Pruning" and Chapter VIII on "Winter Protection and Mulching." 73 74 THE COMPLETE GARDEN The proper filling of a cavity, after the wound has been scientifically dressed, will enable the cambium to begin to grow over the space and in time to cover it entirely with tissue that will greatly promote future growth of the tree as a whole while at the same time it removes a disfigurement. But before the welfare of valuable trees is entrusted to a man who professes to be able to restore them there should be valid assurance of his being in every way proficient and thoroughly compe- tent. Fertilizing. Shade trees seem to be less intelligently maintained than shrubbery. It is a matter of common knowledge that the roots of trees spread as far or farther than the tops, and that most of the feeding roots are at the extremities of the large roots. Many ex- periments have proved that the effect of fertilizers is rarely felt very far in a lateral direction from the place where applied. Therefore, when feeding a shade tree do not bank a small pile of strawy manure around the trunk, as this encourages mice only. Spread the mulch well out over the whole area covered by the top of the tree, and neglect, if any, the area near the trunk. In case of shade or orchard trees which are not vigorous and which require feeding, recent experiments seem to show that applications of nitrate of soda and acid phosphate are effective. Quantities up to ten pounds for each tree may be used on old trees either spread evenly over the surface of the ground under- neath the tree or introduced beneath the sod in quantities of a handful deposited in the bottom of holes made by a crowbar at staggered in- tervals of eighteen inches. Bone meal is probably one of the best fertilizers to be used in preserving the vitality of shade trees. A successful method of applying bone meal is that of spreading it broad- cast over the lawn surrounding the base of the tree. This fertilizer, which is slow acting, should be applied during the winter or very early spring months, at the rate of at least twenty-five or fifty pounds for trees from ten to twelve inches in diameter, and at a proportionately less rate for trees of smaller diameter. This fertilizer should be applied at least once in two years. It is much better to apply a less amount and to fertilize the trees each year. Watering. Most of the deep-rooted shade trees, such as oaks, sel- dom need watering after they are once established, but it is often advisable to grve shade trees a heavy watering in time of drought. MAINTENANCE 75 Surface sprinkling is not desirable as it encourages surface rooting and seldom does much good. In case it is necessary to water a shade tree the best plan is to throw up a shallow embankment of earth around the tree just outside the spread of the branches if possible, and flood the enclosed area at intervals not more often than once in five or six days. Many trees and shrubs will be much benefited in time of drought if their tops are sprinkled at sundown on very hot days. Spraying. Spraying of plants as a scientific practice is, com- paratively speaking, a modern procedure, but the necessity for doing something to protect plants against insects and plant diseases has been understood since antiquity. In their writings the Greeks, Romans, and Hebrews noted the existence of rusts and mildews, and the plague of locusts is of Biblical record. Spraying is only one of several ways of protecting plants and among the others may be enumerated hand picking, fumigating, banding, burning, using fungous diseases as insecticides, crop rotation, soil sterilization and various other more or less practical methods. These other methods are important when understood and put into practice at the right moment and in the right way, but they are inexact com- pared to spraying and are seldom as efficient. Spraying, by which is meant the use of chemicals to poison or otherwise exterminate animal and vegetable parasites on plants, has been reduced very nearly to an exact science in this country, largely within the last century, and, while it is not the purpose here to go too deeply into this art, some broad rules may be laid down and some little understood points cleared up. Our Government and State Experiment Stations have been largely responsible for the rapid strides taken in this art in this country. They have issued many bulletins and spray calendars containing exact directions for combating all the known insect pests and plant diseases and they always stand ready to help any one who asks for it. Yet much of their help comes too late and much money is wasted each year with consequent disappointment, because a few simple principles are not clearly understood. Some of the overlooked factors which are not taken into account are as follows: (1) a spray mixture must be the correct one as, for example, it does no good to use poison upon an insect at a period in its life history when it does not eat; (2) the spray mixture must not injure the plants, or else the cure will be 7 6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN worse than the disease; (3) a thorough job must be done or else the whole job may have to be done over at too late a season to secure the best results; (4) the correct time must be picked or a rain storm may undo the whole work within a few hours; (5) the spray must stick to the plant long enough to be of some use, especially in the case of poisons. The various forms of sprays may be classified in four different ways: according to the season of spraying, the kind of chemicals used, the form in which the chemical is applied, and the kind of plants sprayed. Seasons for Spraying. The seasons for outdoor spraying are two: the summer or growing season, and the winter or dormant season. Summer sprays are invariably not applied so strong as winter spra}^s, because the bark on the new shoots as well as the leaves would be injured by a spray of a strength which would not only be entirely safe, but advisable to use when a plant was dormant. Dormant sprays are mostly confined to those applied for protection against vegetable parasites and those intended to destroy scale insects. Some useful winter work is often done in the destroying of egg masses and cocoons by torches and the application of creosote or other strong paints by hand in small quantities; but this is not, strictly speaking, spraying. Summer spraying includes nearly all the methods used in the dormant season, with the spray made more or less dilute, dependent upon the exact season, as well as all the other forms of sprays. It should be noted that dormant spraying may be done at almost any time after the plants become dormant in the autumn and until they start growth in the spring; but it is not advisable to attempt to spray during freezing weather, nor too early in the winter, because in the latter event much of the benefits of the spray will be lost through the subsequent winter storms. If dormant spraying is delayed until nearly spring some beneficial results may be expected to extend into the summer, which would otherwise have been lost. Summer spraying, on the contrary, must usually be done at some precise time in order to secure the de- sired results, though this is not always strictly necessary. Spray Chemicals Used. The spray chemicals used are those which are best adapted to destroy the various forms of plant and animal parasites which it is desired to attack. Sometimes it is possible to combine two forms of chemicals in one spray and thus make one MAINTENANCE 77 operation serve two purposes. Those sprays intended for leaf-eating insects are classified as poisons and act like all poisons on being ab- sorbed into the digestive tract of the insect. It is generally necessary only to secure an even distribution of such a spray, which usually con- tains some form of arsenic, over the leaves of the plant. Those sprays intended for insects, such as the scale insects, which do not eat leaves or green parts of plants, are classified as contact insecticides. They kill by suffocating the insect or by their direct physical action upon the body of the insect. Thus they may also be useful against leaf-eating insects as well. These sprays may be merely some powder in a form so minute that it can enter the breathing apparatus of the insect or, in the case of the sucking insects, some oil which can be held in suspen- sion in water long enough to allow it to be sprayed over the plant. Other well-known contact insecticides are tobacco extract (nicotine sulphate) and various soaps, such as "whale oil" soap, made from fish oil. Sometimes poisonous gases are used for this purpose but that is, properly speaking, fumigation and not spraying. The third classifica- tion of sprays according to chemicals is that intended for fungous diseases, caused by low forms of vegetable parasites. Anthracnose, rust, mildew, canker, blight, and numerous other descriptive names are given to these diseases but they are nearly all treated alike by the application of a fungicide which is generally some spray containing sulphur, either lime-sulphur mixture or Bordeaux mixture, which is a lime and copper sulphate mixture. The lime-sulphur mixture also acts as a contact insecticide in some cases. Fungicides should be applied very evenly over the whole of the plant from top to bottom and may be used much stronger during the dormant season than would be safe during the growing season. Forms of Sprays. The types of spray classified according to the form in which they are used are two. The most generally used form is the liquid, which generally means a chemical in suspension in water. Most sprays used in liquid form are chosen because of their ability to stay in suspension in water for a considerable length of time without either going into solution or gathering in lumps. This property of staying in suspension is a very valuable one, because it insures an even distribution of the spray material without an excessive amount of agitation to keep the mixture even. There is an increasing tendency to use the dust form of spray in which the chemicals are blown upon 7 8 THE COMPLETE GARDEN the plants in the form of a very fine powder which is largely dependent upon atmospheric moisture to make it stick to the plant. Dust sprays are used more often in a commercial way than by the average amateur when protecting ornamental plants, and this form of spray is not adapted to all the chemicals used, as, for instance, the oil and tobacco extract sprays. Sometimes poisons are mixed with bait and spread upon the ground near the plants to be protected, but this again is not spraying in the generally accepted sense of the word. Outfits for Spraying. There are various spraying outfits adapted to the various requirements dependent on the amount of work to be done and the physical difficulties to be overcome. Probably the best small outfit for the amateur is the knapsack sprayer which can be easily transported and even carried up into the tops of trees if necessary. This consists of an airtight receptacle for the spray mixture, which may be strapped to the back in such a way as to easily allow the pressure to be kept up with one hand while the nozzle attached to a short length of hose is manipulated in the other hand. The best knapsack sprayers have a copper tank holding about four gallons of liquid, a brass pump, and an air pressure chamber which insures a steady stream. They weigh fifty pounds when full of liquid. A cheaper pump of about the same type but small capacity is the bucket pump which can be used with any bucket or pail. This is harder to transport about and not so satisfactory in other ways as a knapsack sprayer. There are various types of hand-operated barrel outfits. Sometimes the barrel is mounted on large wheels so that it can be easily moved about with a pump installed in the head of the barrel, or sometimes- a larger hand-operated pump is mounted on a cart beside a barrel or tank. Such an outfit will take care of all but the tallest trees and is about the largest suitable for amateur spraying. It has enough capacity to take care of considerable spraying and enough pressure to insure a fine spray reaching all parts of even large plants. For occasionally spraying small shrubs and such plants as perennials and annual flowering herbs a small hand force pump is a very con- venient one to have. These small pumps hold a quart of liquid in a glass or copper retainer. The power sprayers are operated either by a gearing or sprocket and chain connecting the wheels of the outfit to the pump or by a gasoline engine mounted on a platform together with a pump and 2 C £ rj o c D. fc- <*- 03 — > c ° ITS c ^ " 03 ~ 03 D (J CU O _- 3 U " 2 w c 03 U) £ £ « M C 03 Ih a cu u< co > z j£ o S>1 o & CO C 03 bX - CO 'S 5 _c — 4-1 00 -a o 4-1 c 4-1 C cu 03 H3 T3 CO oj 'u z CO cu & t; _o t+H "5 *-> o T3 ^ cu V. CO j_i O o 3 03 7^3 (U CU o jr CJ CO ** T3 t3 03 cu S-I u o u ♦J r" +- 1 > . ~ g o CJ -^ i- u 03 *i 0J -H 13 In 4-1 Oh c^ r: cu u X — cu H Jj 3 o c/: CU *—■ ' < re ^ Oh 3 "co O i— i a. Plate XIII. Carefully selected and planted trees for avenue and stree planting provide a uniform and a symmetrical effect together with the invil ing shade, all of which are so essential to the standards of modern residenti; districts. (See page 116, group X-A) MAINTENANCE 79 tank. When many trees are to be sprayed a power sprayer should be used in order to secure a pressure which will enable the forcing of a fine spray to all parts of the tallest trees. For spraying tall trees an apparatus which works up a pressure of two hundred pounds is required so that the spray mixture may leave the nozzle in a solid stream and break into a mist as it nears the top of the tree. This is not required for spraying smaller trees or bushes or flowers where the requirement becomes that of producing a fine spray a few feet from the nozzle. Spray chemicals which are to be used in dust form are applied by means of so-called "powder guns" when large amounts are used on large trees. These are seldom useful on ornamental plants because of the usual proximity of houses or public streets and the consequent annoyance caused by clouds of obnoxious dust flying in the air. Many times, however, sulphur dust or hellebore can be applied by means of small hand force pumps adapted to using the dry dust, or this dust can be applied by sifting over the plants through holes punched in the con- tainer in which it is purchased. Formulas for Sprays. The formulas for some of the simpler insecticides and fungicides will be given here; but it is generally more advisable for the amateur to purchase his chemicals already mixed and in packages of a size adapted for his immediate requirements. Poisons: Paris green — aceto arsenite of copper. Arsenite of lime. Arsenate of lead; use 2 lbs. to 50 gal. water. Hellebore; use 1 ounce to 1 gallon of water. Poison Baits: For cutworms 1 lb. Paris green mixed with 10 lb. bran. For cutworms 1 lb. white arsenic and 1 lb. of sugar or molasses in 6 lbs. of bran. For grasshoppers use the arsenic, sugar, and bran mixture, placing 1 tablespoonful every 6 or 8 feet. For sow bugs or pill bugs use slices of potato dipped in a dry arsenical or a strong solution. Contact Insecticides: For plant lice use one lb. soap to 5 to 8 gallons water. For aphids and larvae use nicotine sulphate at strength given on package or 1 lb. tobacco stems boiled in 2 gal. water (Dilution of nicotine sulphate is generally 1 pint to 50 gallons of water. The addition of 2 lbs. of soap is desirable). For scales use 2 gal. kerosene and 1 gal. sour milk. For plant lice use 2 gal. kerosene and 1 gal. soft water and J lb. soap. 8o THE COMPLETE GARDEN For scales use in winter only a lime-sulphur spray containing about 20 lbs. of un- slaked lime and 15 lbs. of flowers of sulphur to 50 gal. of water. For red spider and plant mites use flowers of sulphur as a dry powder dusted over the trees when covered with dew or imir.ediately after a rain. For hibernating insects use a miscible or soluble oil at the rate of 1 part of oil to 12 or 15 parts of water. Fungicides: Bordeaux mixture; 5 lbs. copper sulphate and 5 lbs. lime in 50 gal. water. Ammoniacal copper carbonate; 6 oz. copper carbonate and 3 pts. ammonia in 50 gal. of water. Copper sulphate is used, with lime to colour it. For killing fungi on dormant plants. Lime sulphur mixture also acts as a fungicide. Symptoms and Treatments. The following list shows in parallel columns (1) the symptoms which appear upon diseased plants or those with insect pests, (2) the cause and lastly (3) the indicated treatment. Symptom Cm JSE Treatment Scab Fungus Bordeaux or lime-sulphur Leaf spot Fungus Bordeaux, also gather and burn diseased leaves Leaf curl Leaf curl fungus Lime-sulphur or Bordeaux Canker Freezing or rot fungus Cut out and destroy dis- eased parts Rust Rust fungus Bordeaux, also cut out cedar apples Wilt Fungus Bordeaux Twig blight Fungus Lime-sulphur, also cut out and burn diseased parts Mildews Mildew fung US Sulphur dust, also burn leaves in autumn Fruit rot Anthracnose fungus Bordeaux Smut Smut fungus Bordeaux Tip burn (leaves) Too much water fol- Watch soil conditions lowed by hot weather Scald Freezing and thawing or Protect from winter sun and fungus use Bordeaux Gum excretion Borers Protective wash and dig out borers Sawdust excretion Borers Protective wash Leaf discolouration of Red spider Dry sulphur dust conifers Bark discolouration Scales Lime-sulphur or kerosene emulsion Leaf curling Aphids Nicotine sulphate or soapsuds Wilt Cut worms Paris green in molasses in bran MAINTENANCE 81 Symptom Cause Treatment Defoliation Bag worms or other Arsenate of lead and burn caterpillars winter nests and egg masses Defoliation Rose slugs Arsenate of lead Defoliation Leaf beetles Arsenate of lead Defoliation Thrips Nicotine sulphate Leaf discolouration of rho- Lace-wing fly Soap solution, I bar to 20 dodendrons gallons. SPRAYING DON'TS Don't wait for rose pests — spray first. Don't destroy toads or birds; they save you lots of trouble with insects. Don't mix spray materials unless you are a chemist. Don't use liquid sprays without keeping a uniform solution by means of agitating the liquid. Don't whitewash your tree trunks; bugs are not afraid of whitewash. Don't band tree trunks with anything but a preparation and at a time approved by an entomologist. Don't spray exhibition plants or flowers with a discolouring spray. Don't neglect to watch the wind when spraying; it may blow poison into someone's face and eyes or over a painted or varnished surface or scatter poison over food crops, like lettuce. Don't dust your evergreens, coniferous or broad-leaved, with lime; the result will be more serious than any disease. Don't be bashful about asking your State Experiment Station for help. Shrubs — Cultivation. The cultivation of shrubs is rather over- done than underdone. The natural habitat of most woody plants includes a ground covering of leaves, forest mold, or herbaceous plants and grass; thus they are protected summer and winter against drought and cold. It is not often possible to reproduce such conditions in a made border; but the tendency should be in that direction. While a certain amount of cultivation at first in a shrub border is desirable, especially in new ground, most shrub borders would benefit by being permanently mulched, or at least by not being dug over too deeply after the roots of the shrubs have become established. The use of 82 THE COMPLETE GARDEN ground covers among shrubbery is excellent, and they are especially valuable toward the front of the border. When properly mulched and cared for, shrubbery will seldom need watering after the first year or two, but an occasional good soaking during the drought of summer will not come amiss. It is quite essential, at intervals of every two or three years, that the deciduous shrub borders should be carefully gone over and that the ground around the individual shrubs should be thoroughly loosened wherever it is possible to do so without disturbing the root system. At such times considerable fertilizer consisting of well- rotted manure or a heavy application of bone meal should be applied. No quick-acting fertilizer such as sheep manure, dried blood, or nitrate of soda is desirable. In the successful maintenance of the shrub border the object of supplying fertilizer to that border is not one of forcing growth but one of maintaining normal growth. In the proper maintenance of a shrub border the crowding and dead wood should be removed each year. It often becomes necessary to transplant to other locations and to rearrange some plants where they are becoming too thick in the border plantation, in order to give the remainder of the plants an opportunity to develop normally. We often see shrub plantations which are "leggy." This can be overcome by a proper pruning each year, consisting of the removal, to a height of twelve or fifteen inches above the ground, of at least one-fourth of the old wood (See Plate No. V). This will encourage new growth from the base of the shrub and, where refined mass effects are desired, this method of pruning will eliminate much of the broken and unkept ap- pearance of many plantations. There are instances in which the ex- tremely old and unkept effect is more to be desired, and this process of pruning cannot be applied. Rhododendrons. Rhododendrons, other broad-leaved evergreens, and conifers should be thoroughly watered during the late fall and never be allowed to freeze for the winter in a dry condition. This is more often the cause of winter-killing than is severe cold. The reason why these plants are more susceptible to injury on this account is be- cause they hold their leaves during the winter months and thus transpiration continues to some degree, and if the plant is not well filled with moisture, a drying-out process occurs and the plant is devit- alized. Because of the mass of fine, hairlike roots which find their way through the earth near the surface of the ground, rhododendrons can- MAINTENANCE 83 not endure any considerable dry period or any cultivation of the sur- face of the ground, in the same manner as that adopted in caring for deciduous shrubs and the deeper-rooted evergreens. Rhododendrons, Fertilizer For. Rhododendrons and other ericaceous plants should not be fertilized with manure until well established. In the late fall after the rhododendrons have been established one year they may be fertilized by the application of a two- inch layer of well-rotted stable manure over the top of the mulch. This should be repeated each year. Chemical fertilizers are seldom or never used on ericaceous plants. Bone meal should never be used as its bone phosphate of lime is sure to react upon the soil acidity so essential to the successful culture of rhododendrons and allied plants. The use of bone meal has been known to be fatal to these plants. Epsom salt has been recommended as a fertilizer for rhododendrons, but this is probably a mistake and in any event a doubtful procedure because of the chemical nature of this material. As epsom salt is magnesium sulphate and has been used in England to top-dress clover as a substitute for lime, it probably would react in the soil similar to lime and would be injurious to all ericaceous plants. Evergreens. The greatest problem in the maintenance of ever- greens is that of keeping them in a healthy and vigorous condition of growth. There are certain locations where it is essential to use ever- greens in order to produce a desired effect. Oftentimes these locations are surrounded by a city environment with a dust-laden and smoky atmosphere which is one of the more injurious factors in the growing of evergreens. If such plants are to be maintained in a healthy con- dition they should never be watered on the leaves during the heat of the day when the sun is shining. They should, however, be sprayed with a strong force of water at intervals not less often than once each w T eek in order to wash from the surface of the leaves the accumulated dust which if left causes a devitalized condition of the entire plant. Vines. Vines require but little attention. Wood should be cut back severely in the spring on vines with ornamental fruit. Re- move old canes and check any growth that becomes too rank. Shoots that are too long or spoil the general effect should be cut. All climbers 84 THE COMPLETE GARDEN must be furnished with some kind of support and care should be taken to fasten loose ends. Usually vines are planted close to foundations. It must be re- membered that most foundations are carefully provided with a line of drainage on the outside of the wall in order to readily care for any surface water that seeps into the soil and then later seeps through the wall if not promptly carried away. For this reason, probably, vines require more attention than most other plants in order to keep them supplied with a quantity of water necessary to their normal develop- ment. They should also be very frequently fertilized, preferably with bone meal or well-rotted manure. Well-rotted cow manure is an ideal fertilizer for most vines. Lawns — Fertilizing. The maintenance of lawns consists of fertilizing, rolling, watering, and mowing in order to keep the turf in such condition that few if any weeds will have an opportunity to flour- ish. Fertilizing of a lawn is perhaps one of the most important items of its maintenance, for the reason that few lawns are so well prepared when first made that they do not begin to need additional food material during the second or third year after making. It is difficult to convince those who are developing lawns for the first time that money expended in the proper preparation and fertilization of a good depth of topsoil will do away with the subsequent annual expense necessary to keep a lawn, not correctly prepared when originally made, in the best condition. A good turf requires food in the form of ferti- lizer, and this food supply must either be provided at the time the lawn is made or it must be constantly applied from year to year afterward (See Page 53). Much thought, labour, and money are wasted in putting a mulch on lawns, only to come back later and cast it away again. It may be wise to mulch a lawn in the fall, but there is more than an even chance that if the area is covered with fresh manure, weeds will be introduced and this will more than offset any real value derived from the mulch. The use of manure as a top-dressing for lawns should be discouraged unless used in the form of a completely decomposed compost. A thick coat of manure is apt to stifle the grass. Lawns should never be mulched with manure during the spring unless with thoroughly rotted manure applied not later than early March. All mulching or top-dressing should be done preferably in the fall so that the weed seeds are killed to a great extent during the winter. It is practically MAINTENANCE 85 useless to apply the manure on frozen ground, for an ensuing rain or melting of the snow may dissolve and carry away either in solution or suspension most of the fertilizing ingredients. If a lawn is not mowed too late in the season and is not cleaned too completely of the mowed grass, it will generally provide its own mulch for the winter very satisfactorily. Bone meal alone, especially if not very finely ground, may be used in the late fall at the rate of five hundred pounds an acre, or twelve pounds to 1,000 square feet every year. Bone meal seems to be the best phosphoric acid carrier for lawns. Nitrate of soda is the quickest- acting fertilizer and may be used broadcast in quantities up to five hun- dred pounds an acre each year. This quantity must be divided among two or three separate applications. Both blue grass and clover will be encouraged by the use of air-slaked lime as a winter dressing every four or five years, at the rate of one ton an acre. Chemical fertilizers are best applied in the spring as a top-dressing and about five hundred pounds an acre should be applied. A mixture of 5% nitrogen, 6% avail- able phosphoric acid, and 8% potash will produce good results. Equal parts of finely ground bone meal and sifted wood ashes at the rate of one ton an acre make a good spring top-dressing. Kiln-dried sheep ma- nure may be used at the rate of one ton an acre or fifty pounds to 1,000 square feet, with excellent results, with the assurance that it will not bring in weed seeds. It should be applied in early spring for the best results. Watering Lawns. A properly prepared lawn will not require much watering unless the season is unusually dry or near-by trees are robbing the grass roots. In any event, a few thorough soakings are much more valuable than many superficial sprinklings. The effect of a good thorough soaking is not only more lasting in itself, but also encourages deep rooting of the grass, which, in turn, tends to remove the necessity for watering and also opens up new stores of plant food to the grass roots. It is better to avoid all spray nozzles and whirligig fountains, for, however handsome the effects they may produce in the sunlight, they do not insure a thorough soaking. It does not matter nearly so much at what time of the day a lawn is wet as it does how thoroughly the watering is done. Watering-done in the middle of a hot, sunny day, however, is made less effective by reason of evaporation. It also in- volves some scorching or cooking of the blades of grass as the sun shines 86 THE COMPLETE GARDEN " through the globules or film of moisture upon them. Do not hasten to sprinkle a lawn at the first approach of warm weather as this will dis- courage the tendency of the grass roots to go deeper in search of the ground water. If the lawn shows signs later in the season of being in distress, give it a thorough soaking. An effective watering should soak the ground to a depth of five or six inches. Rolling and Weeding Lawns. Rolling of lawns is not resorted to nearly as much as formerly. Probably one good, thorough rolling in the early spring is beneficial, especially on clay land which may have heaved in spots during the winter. Except for this, rolling is of doubt- ful value, especially because during dry weather it causes loss of moisture through transpiration. Weeds in the lawn indicate that the grass is not properly cared for or has been carelessly seeded. Weeds may appear in a new lawn, especially if manure has been used in the preparation. It is not necessary to pull out the annuals, for if the turf is cut they will not seed themselves. Remove only the perennials, such as burdock and plantain. Tread on the holes thus left and fill them with compost and seed. It is better to weed in the fall, as in the spring crab grass is apt to get into bare spots. Perennial weeds should be cut out with a knife, securing as much of the roots as possible; or a drop or two of gasoline will generally kill the plants. Moss and sorrel in a lawn indicate a sour soil needing liberal applications of air- slaked lime. Crab grass causes considerable trouble if once established and care should be taken to remove all portions of the roots. Enemies to Lawns. Weeds are the most important enemies to lawns. The best way to eradicate weeds in a lawn that is otherwise worth saving is to dig them out, fill the holes with good topsoil, and sow fresh seed. Spraying with chemicals and patent remedies has never proved effective. Angle worms or fishworms may be destroyed by the following spray: Dissolve in two gallons of boiling water one pound of common salt and add one pound of corrosive sublimate. Dilute the above with four gallons of water to make a stock solution. One pint of the stock solution should be added to sixteen gallons of water and sprayed over the lawn. Army worms may be destroyed while young by a spray made by dissolving three pounds of arsenate of lead in fifty gallons of water. This should be sprayed over the lawn until it is white. While white grubs are among the grass roots in late July in MAINTENANCE 87 preparation to emerge as adult beetles they may be crushed by rolling the lawn with a ten-ton roller, but failing this heroic treatment, there seems to be no simpler remedy. Mowing Lawns. Mowing of lawns should be governed by the use to which the lawn is to be put. Mowing should not be very frequent in hot weather nor very long neglected at seasons when the grass is growing rapidly. Clipping should cease before the grass stops grow- ing in the autumn, so that a long growth may be left on the lawn over winter. A portion of the clippings should be left on a lawn to act as a mulch, especially if the grass is cut often. Enough grass leaves must be left on each plant so that it can maintain its growth, but on the other hand, growth must not be carried to the point of seed pro- duction, which, more than anything else, tends to weaken the vitality of a plant. About two inches is the height most often recommended for grass. It is best to leave mower knives set high and mow more frequently rather than to allow grass to grow high and then cut it low and thus remove too large a portion of the leaf surface of the plant, and also expose the soil to the direct rays of the sun. When a lawn becomes run down it is generally better to remake it entirely, instead of wasting money on patching. It is well to consider that if the original grass could not succeed on the soil, new grass will certainly fail. Perennials — Winter Protection. In general, the better es- tablished a perennial is, the less winter protection it requires. How- ever, even though plants would winter over safely if uncovered, they should be protected from the heaving which follows alternate thawing and freezing. In the case of perennials planted in the autumn this is exceedingly important for the first winter. Snow is a good protective covering, but it is rarely that plants will be so covered during the entire winter. It is accordingly advisable to apply a mulch. Mulching in the fall provides an opportunity for fertilizing as well as protection, especially if good straw manure is used. Straw or corn- stalks provide excellent mulch for perennials but both encourage mice. These pests may be killed by poisoned wheat or by pouring carbon bisulphide down their burrows. Where mice are especially trouble- some, a compost of leaves, sawdust, lawn rakings, etc., should be used, inasmuch as heavy litter or one containing grain is ideal for attracting animals. Perennials such as lilies, whose crowns are completely under- ground, require the greatest protection. Perennials such as primroses 88 THE COMPLETE GARDEN and foxgloves, which carry over some fleshy foliage, must be covered lightly, if at all, to prevent rotting of the crowns. It is desirable to leave dead tops, stalks, etc., on the plants until spring. The tops will protect the plants to some extent over winter and there is also less danger to the plant from premature removal of tops in the fall before the latter are entirely dead. Cultivation should cease in the fall after danger from weed seeds maturing is past. This will discourage too late growth, and any weeds will serve as a protective covering. It is important that mulch for perennial gardens should not be applied too early. There is a great danger in applying a litter of straw manure or leaves before the warm weather is fully over, and thus encouraging top growth which either rots during the winter or is frozen. Mulch should not be applied until after the first heavy frosts, and preferably not until the ground is slightly frozen in the early winter. The tufted pansy, primrose, and Shasta daisy are very susceptible to injury from a heavy mulch. Mulch should not be removed until danger from extreme weather is past. The time for removal is governed by local conditions. The mulch should be removed gradually — not all at once — and extreme care should be used in removal in order not to injure or destroy smaller plants or plants which appear late in the spring. Any mulch has a tendency to delay the spring development of the roots. It should be removed, however, before the ground has become so warm that root growth has become definitely encouraged and the sprouts which are starting to grow are becoming weak and spindly. Dividing Perennials, and Renovating Beds. There are some perennials which are benefited by being allowed to remain permanently in one place, such as peonies, gas plants, and bleeding-heart, but the vast majority of plants are not likely to improve unless taken up from time to time, divided, and reset. This is especially true of plants like the iris and the sneeze-weed which spread underground and form mats, soon exhaust soil fertility, and engage in a severe struggle which ham- pers their ornamental development. Likewise, crowns of perennials which give the most desirable flowers bloom only two or three seasons and then die. There is also the necessity for renewing the biennials such as foxgloves, canterbury bells, hollyhocks, and sweet williams. Some perennials such as oriental poppies should not be moved but may be divided with a sharp trowel. The general practice is to MAINTENANCE 89 lift and divide the roots of perennials every two or three years. Spreading and shallow-rooted perennials will thrive and flower much better if divided and transplanted each year. If this "dividing" is not undertaken each year the "clumps" become crowded and the individu- al flowering stocks do not have an opportunity to develop normally. The result is that many dead stocks remain in the middle of the clump and a much inferior type of flower is produced. Illustrations of this group of perennials which should be divided each season and preferably during the early spring before growth begins are the hardy asters, the sneeze-weed, yellow marguerite, ball of snow, English daisy, and the pompom chrysanthemum. If these plants are not taken up, divided, and replanted in good rich soil, the plants during the succeeding year will not produce large flowering heads, neither will they produce the strong, vigorous growth which they are accustomed to produce. Most of these plants are vigorous growers and heavy feeders and it does not take them long to sap from the soil much of the good food matter which is so necessary to their normal growth. The plume poppy, Shasta daisy, and yellow marguerite will be surrounded by a large number of young plants, which spread out and surround the parent plant, with the result that a number of inferior plants occupy the space which should be occupied by only a few fine, thrifty specimens, providing the parent plants are not divided and transplanted each year. With the yellow marguerite especially, it is much better to discard the old roots and to preserve in the dividing only those roots which are the result of the previous year's development as offshoots from the parent plant. Many times the seedlings that spring up around these plants are equally as preferable if trans- planted and given ample space to develop normally. In the group of plants which should be divided at least every two years are included a few of the more vigorous types of the garden phlox together with the boltonia and the bee-balm. There is a group of perennials which should be divided on the average of once every three years. They will not be benefited through the process of being divided at more frequent intervals. This list includes the common garden phlox, painted daisy, most types of the larkspur, the lily-of-the-valley, a few asters, and the hardy sun-flowers. The common impression with reference to the lily-of-the-valley is that it should not be divided or transplanted after the time of transplanting the original plants. Those persons who have had an intimate acquain- 90 THE COMPLETE GARDEN tance with the flowering habits of this plant state that it should be divided at least once every three years if an abundance of large blooms is to be obtained. Such plants as the larkspur should be divided with great care every three or four years and each division of this plant should be left with a good crown attached to which is a quantity of good fibrous root growth. The greatest success in dividing perennials will be attained with those plants whose roots can be readily pulled apart with no severe ruptures. Those plants which have heavy roots like the larkspur and some of the irises should be subdivided with much greater care. Biennials will renew themselves by seeding if the soil is not disturbed around them to any great extent. A few perennials such as the yellow marguerite and some of the hardy asters will also renew themselves each year by seeds dropped from the parent plant. Every perennial garden is benefited by a thorough spading over at least once in three years. When a garden is filled with perennials the spading does not in general reach deep into the soil, nor does it cover the entire area. The best soil for these plants is one which is friable and not too compact. This is the reason for spading every two or three years. Plants may be dug up and separated by hand or thinned out in the beds by cutting with a clean, sharp spade or trowel and removing the excess plants. Replanting should be done in fresh soil if possible, or some new soil and bone meal would better be worked in. Care should be taken in the replanting that the crown of the plant is not smothered. It is equally fatal to the plant to be set too low or too high. Divide and replant in the spring those fall-blooming sorts which continue in full bloom until late in the season, such as chrysanthemums and ane- mones, and all fleshy-rooted plants except the peony. (For the peony and the iris in particular, and for planting perennials in general see Pages 39 and 47.) The best time of the year for lifting and separating perennials in general is probably the fall. The early-flowering peren- nials like some of the irises and the leopard's bane should give the best result by dividing and transplanting shortly after they have completed their flowering period. One objection to fall planting, however, is that the smaller plants heave out if planted too late or are apt to get lost during mulching or in the "cleaning up" work of the spring. Plants with heavy tops or fleshy roots in general, except the iris and the peony, are more liable to rot if planted in the fall. If the planting of MAINTENANCE 91 them is done at this season it should be begun in the latter part of August, if possible. The regular mulching, so necessary for all plants set in the autumn, should not be forgotten when the winter comes on. During the summer a fine mulch of some sort may be kept on a per- ennial border to good advantage as it prevents loss of moisture, saves labour otherwise necessary in cultivating, stops spattering of mud over the leaves of smaller plants, and prevents baking of the soil after rains. Fertilizing Perennials and Annuals. Perennials need a great deal of food and should have plant food to restore soil fertility. Such heavy feeders as phloxes and peonies should receive applications of bone meal and liquid manure. Such applications when the plants are in bud will frequently improve the size and quality of the flowers. Manure for fall mulching will also enrich the plants. The finer part can be worked into the beds during the spring, but care must be taken not to injure or destroy roots or smaller plants. Peonies and irises in general, like all plants with thick, fleshy roots or rootstocks, are sick- ened by manure. Bone meal is perfectly safe to use and is in every way the best fertilizer for them. On the other hand, the Japanese irises, with their fibrous roots, revel in cow manure. They, like iris longipetala, are indifferent to lime which to all other moisture-loving irises, with the exception of the spuria group, is objectionable. Beds must be kept entirely free from weeds until fall. Where mulch is not maintained around the plants cultivation should be kept up, especially after a rain, to prevent evaporation. In the development of the annual flower garden the soil should be thoroughly spaded over each spring and well pulverized. A good coating of well-rotted manure should be thoroughly spaded into the soil to a depth of four inches to eight inches. During the flowering season of these plants it may become necessary, on account of the lack of suf- ficient food, to supply some quick-acting fertilizer such as sheep manure or dried blood which will force their growth and assist greatly in developing larger and more abundant flowers. A slight sprinkling of sheep manure or dried blood around each of the plants will be sufficient. It may be advisable to repeat this fertilizing operation at intervals of three or four weeks during the flowering season. Nitrate of soda is sometimes used as a plant stimulant. It is much more dan- gerous, however, than either sheep manure or dried blood because an overdose is very apt to burn and injure the plants. 92 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Watering of Perennials. Watering must be attended to, es- pecially during dry spells. One good soaking a week is much more valuable to plants than many light sprinklings which do not wet the soil to any appreciable depth. On sandy and very light soils it will be necessary to water thoroughly every day or every second day during the dryest part of the season. Where it is not possible to water all the plants thoroughly at one time, divide the beds into sections and water the various sections in rotation. Watering in the later afternoon or evening hours has a more lasting effect than during the hotter portion of the day. Watering can be overdone as it can be carried to the point where the soil becomes water-logged and will consequently sour. Too much superficial watering of open-ground plants induces surface rooting which is not satisfactory, as such plants do not have access to large stores of food, and consequently cannot with- stand drought successfully. Transplanted perennials should be wat- ered thoroughly and left alone a few days till they become somewhat established. The statement is sometimes made that water from wells is too cold to be suited for watering plants, and also that such water often lacks chemicals which serve as plant food. On the contrary, successful gardeners often water plants at midday on hot summer days in order to gain the cooling effect of the water when it is most needed. It is also believed by some experienced observers that water falling on the soil reaches the soil temperature very quickly after being absorbed and in all but a negligible number of instances, before it reaches the roots of plants. With regard to the question of the amount of plant food contained in water from a deep-driven well as compared to the amount found in surface water such as that flowing in a creek or river there seems to be little reason to think that water from wells is lack- ing in plant food to such an extent as to make it less valuable than surface water. It is now agreed that surface water contains more solid matter in suspension while subterranean water has its load of solid mat- ter in solution. Therefore the plant food which occurs in water from a driven well differs from the plant food found in river water merely in being more likely to occur in solution rather than in suspension. The water which is taken from artesian wells is not always sterile and often contains nitrates in large quantities due to the reduction of the nitrates which occur in deep layers in the soil. When this water is used for irrigating the surface layer of the soil, the nitrifying bacteria MAINTENANCE 93 change the nitrites back to nitrates. In regions rich in humus, ground water often contains organic as well as inorganic matter. Well water may and often does contain plant food which is very valuable in the form of nitrates or ammonia. Removing Seed Pods and General Care. Summer care of perennials consists of removing seed stems and dead flowers. It is extremely important to remove dead flowers at once, as formation of seeds weakens a plant. And with many plants, such as the larkspur and foxglove, new flowers also will be produced if the old flowers are removed immediately after blooming. There is a considerable differ- ence of opinion concerning the general maintenance of the larkspur. Some persons think that the stock of this plant should be cut down to a height of four inches to six inches immediately after flowering, other persons feel that it should not be cut to a height of less than twelve inches to fifteen inches. The author's personal experience has been that if these plants are cut back immediately after flowering to a height of four inches to six inches new shoots will be developed which will not attain the height of the original plant but will develop excellent flowers during the latter part of September. Support tall-growing plants with neat stakes. In this class are asters, boltonias, and larkspurs. Do not delay the staking until the plants have begun to fall over. Bare spaces among plants in a border should be filled with annuals, if necessary, as this will not only improve the general effect but help also to keep the ground shaded and cool, and provide bright spots of colour after the first flush of bloom among the perennials is over. Bare spaces may be filled by bringing in plants from a reserve garden where they may be held in pots. New varieties of perennials and biennials should be propagated and transplanted to the bed or border to replace plants that run out or begin to fail. Seedlings will spring up from many plants, such as anemones, marguerites, hollyhocks, and campanulas, when seed pods are allowed to form. Such plants can be used to fill up open spaces. Diseases of Perennials and Control. Perennials, taken as a class, under fairly favourable conditions are not particularly susceptible to disease. In general, when diseases attack perennial plants, the safest thing to do is to throw them away. Aphis and minor insect troubles may be easily controlled by spraying. 94 THE COMPLETE GARDEN The following plants, if attacked by leaf spots or mildews, may be saved by fungicides (See Page 77) : Alyssum (mildew). Anemone (root decay and rust). Destroy affected roots. Aquilegia (mildew and black spot). Campanula (red and brown rust). Keep away from pinus rigida. Chrysanthemum (leaf spot or powdery mildew). If rusted, plants should be destroyed. Convallaria (stem rot). Burn affected plants. Coreopsis (mildew). Delphinium (black spot on leaves). Remove and burn. Ferns (tip blight). Hollyhock (leaf spot). If attacked by rust or anthracnose destroy the plants. Iberis (club root). Use lime in soil. Papaver (mildew). Peony (stem rot, leaf spot, boty rides). Phlox (leaf spot and powdery mildew, and stem canker). Sedum (leaf spot). Thalictrum (red spot). Veronica (leaf disease), (leaf spot). Violets (leaf spot and leaf blight). Root rot of violets and nematodes on the roots require soil treatment and sterilization. Bulb spot of irises should be treated by soaking the bulbs for one hour in formalin solution, consisting of one ounce in two gallons of water. Root rot which is found usually only in the midst of an old matted clump is overcome by breaking the rhizomes from the clump, cutting off the decay, and planting in new soil with a watering of potassium permanganate, only enough to make the water of light pink colour. Maintenance of Various Kinds of Gardens. No attempt should be made to develop a garden of any kind until a careful analysis has first been made concerning the probable cost for future maintenance. This applies equally as well to the extensive estate as it does to the detailed flower garden and to the average residence property. Plants are growing things and require constant attention in greater or less degree varying with types of development, whether of extreme formality or extreme informality, intended to produce certain effects. Many require an extremely abnormal quantity of labour and others require a minimum of labour for their average maintenance. Plate XIV. The list of trees and shrubs which thrive in the congested city districts where soil conditions are poor and the air is polluted with smoke and dust, is limited to a few kinds, of which the tree-of-heaven, locust and catalpa are typical. (See page 119. group XI-A) Plate XV. An interesting use of hedges to frame one side of the refined for- mal garden. Japanese quince on the left side of the walk, Japanese barberry against the right side accented with sheared retinosporas, and buttresses of Japanese quince and Amoor River privet on the extreme left against the vine- covered wall, form the features of this composition. (See page 124) MAINTENANCE 95 Wild Garden. Many people labour under the impression that the woodland wild garden demands very little, if any, attention on the maintenance end. The maintenance of a woodland wild garden is a problem, to those who really understand its development and success, of almost as much importance as the maintenance of the more re- fined formal garden. It matters not what the garden may be, either the woodland wild garden or the refined garden, undesirable weeds and grass will develop if it is not given the necessary attention and cultiva- tion. The wild garden cannot be cultivated as deep or as frequently as the refined flower garden. Not only must the owner ward against the development of weeds but he must watch carefully to be certain that those types of plants which are more vigorous growing or which seem to be best adapted to their particular location do not spread or unnecessarily crowd out certain other desirable plants less vigorous in their habit of growth and less apt to thrive in the competition to which they are subjected. There will be places in the wild garden where soil conditions are not exactly as they should be, and where soil should be renovated or manured and where additional leaf mold soil should be added. Annual Flower Garden. Careful and frequent attention must be devoted to the maintenance of annuals during the growing season and especially during the flowering season if the best success is to be ob- tained with this type of garden. Those annuals like the mid-season and late asters need only normal care. Such plants have but one flowering season and it is rare that any secondary flowers are de- veloped on these plants through intelligent cutting, as is the case especially with the snapdragons and also with calendulas, marigolds, and pansies. The snapdragon perhaps is one of the most valuable flowering annuals for a long period of bloom. It will begin its bloom in late June or early July and will continue to bloom until frost retards its growth. Such plants however, will not produce an abundance of fine flowers if encouraged to persistently produce flowers throughout the entire growing season. The snapdragon will produce the best flowers if given a rest during some part of the summer. For instance, plants which begin flowering in late June or early July should be permitted to flower for four or five weeks. They should then be severely cut back to a height of four inches to six inches and a new growth permitted to develop and produce flowers during late August and September. 9 6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN The one most important duty in the successful growing of annual flowering plants, in order to continue their period of bloom, is to keep all portions of the plant from developing seed pods. Those branches which have produced flowers should be removed as soon as the bloom has ceased. Most of the annuals like the calendulas and marigolds are encouraged to produce more bloom through this process of keeping seed pods removed and the branches severely cut back. Other annuals like the annual larkspur, the matricaria, the annual baby's- breath, and the bachelor button will not develop a secondary growth, and must therefore be planted in successive sowings to secure a con- tinuous supply of flowers. Refined Formal Garden. The refined formal garden is developed through the use of various types of perennials and annuals. The same rules apply to the general maintenance of a garden of this kind that apply to the general maintenance of perennials and annuals. This type of garden however, unlike the other types of gardens, rock garden, wild garden, informal garden, etc., should, if developed, be perfectly maintained. A formal flower garden for its real success depends upon well-defined masses and definite major and minor axis lines. Extreme care should be devoted to the clipping of all hedges and the maintenance of the outlines of the definite masses of plants. All turf borders and walks should be neatly trimmed and carefully edged and little if any of the informal loose efFect, so common to the informal garden and to the wild garden, should be permitted. The author attempts to discuss this question together with the question of maintenance pertaining to the other types of gardens in order to make clear that in the selection of the plants in landscape work the item of subsequent maintenance is one of the important factors in the success- ful development of the formal flower garden to an even greater extent than in other types of gardens. Informal Flower Garden. The informal flower garden requires less maintenance care than the formal flower garden. It is not so essential that the masses of plants and the outline of walks should be as carefully defined. There is no garden, not even the wild garden, that does not require constant attention for the best results. The same questions of maintenance apply to the informal garden in the same way that they do to the maintenance of perennials and annuals. The MAINTENANCE 97 only point which the author wishes to make clear is that from the very informal nature of the garden the question of maintenance cost is not as great as the maintenance cost of the formal garden. Rock Garden. Many persons labour under the impression that the rock garden does not require constant attention. To successfully develop a rock garden planting requires more thorough knowledge of plants than the development of the refined flower garden or the informal garden. The reason for this is that those plants which succeed in the rock garden development are much more uncommon than the plants which succeed in other types of gardens and less oppor- tunity is afforded for intelligent study of their habits of growth and flowering characteristics. The rock garden, like the wild garden, is often thought of as a garden in which plants enter into a competition for "the survival of the fittest." Quite to the contrary, intelligent maintenance must be applied in order to eventually develop the plan as originally intended. Most of the plants adapted to the rock garden are the dwarf, slow-growing types which continue to become larger from year to year. They must be kept within bounds by intelli- gent pruning which will not destroy their effect. Occasionally many plants are introduced into the rock garden planting which require much more attention on account of the water which is necessary for their normal growth. A rock garden is not a garden from which flowers are to be picked. The period of bloom is usually the period when the plant is most valuable for its effect in the garden and the flowers should not be removed at that time. Cutting Garden. The cutting garden is perhaps the most simple garden and the easiest garden to maintain. The only problem of such a garden is to provide easy access to plants placed in definite rows with sufficient space for easy cultivation. In a garden of this kind plants are permitted their freedom of growth and the object is to feed them heavily with fertilizer in order to produce the most desirable flowers which are to be cut at a time when the plants are at their height of bloom. The problem of maintenance is one of supplying sufficient fertilizer to keep the flowers growing vigorously, of cultivating them frequently, and watering freely. Rose Garden. The object of the average rose garden is to produce an abundance of bloom and to produce large individual flowers. The 98~ THE COMPLETE GARDEN rose garden for the best success of the plants requires careful main- tenance. The hybrid roses, which are usually grafted stock, revert quickly to the original type if suckers are allowed to develop and not kept within control. The rose garden beds should be kept clean of other plants unless provided with English tufted pansies or por- tulaca. If the rose garden is a part of some formal garden develop- ment and the beds are edged with any small hedge or edging plant such as the alyssum, then extreme care should be exercised to be certain that these plants are kept neatly trimmed and within definite bounds. One of the important problems in the maintenance of the rose garden is that of knowing the different types of hybrids and how these plants should be pruned in order to encourage the production of more flowers or of larger flowers. This question is too extensive to be discussed in the short space available, but there are numerous books which discuss at length the development and care of the rose garden. Fertilizing Roses. When rose garden beds have been properly prepared by the introduction of plant food in the form of manure, bone, and lime, all that remains to be done in the way of fertilization may be easily attended to by top-dressing from time to time. Liquid manure should never be given in dry weather without first thoroughly wetting the soil with plain water, but it may be used at frequent inter- vals provided it is not too strong. Dried blood may be used either in water or dry at the rate of one ounce to the square yard during May, June, and July if hoed well into the surface soil. Wood ashes and bone meal in small quantities may be used in a similar manner after growth starts. These dry fertilizers should be used only just before a good rain or should be followed by a thorough soaking with the hose. Wall Garden. The wall garden is perhaps one of the most inter- esting types of gardens. A wall garden should never be attempted unless those responsible for its maintenance feel certain that the proper kind of intelligent maintenance care can be devoted to such a garden. A list of plants which are adapted for producing wall garden effects is small. It is not so much the question of quantity of main- tenance as it is the question of the degree of intelligent maintenance which makes for the failure or success of the wall garden. The greatest success is attained with wall garden development when those responsible for its maintenance make it a special point to thor- MAINTENANCE 99 oughly familiarize themselves with the growing habits and the re- quirements of wall garden plants. If this is not done the garden is very apt to deteriorate into a normal type of garden with a few persistent weeds of various kinds and some of the more common and easily growing annuals like alyssum growing from the crevices of the rocks. Water Garden. The water garden is the one garden which re- quires less attention than any other garden when it is once correctly developed. The main problem is that of keeping a supply of water which is in no degree stagnant and in knowing the requirements for the fertilizing of aquatic plants to produce the best development. (See Page 220). CHAPTER VIII WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING Reasons for Winter Protection. Winter protection is necessary under the following conditions: First — When a plant is removed from its natural habitat to one more severe; Second — When plants are not sufficiently hardy to withstand the new climatic conditions or ex- posures; Third — When it is desirable to retain ground moisture during the winter for planting on exposed places, mounds and banks. Fourth — When plants (especially evergreens) are transplanted into a stiff clay soil under climatic conditions where they will be subjected to consider- able freezing and thawing and it becomes necessary to protect them against heaving; Fifth — When plants, especially rhododendrons and other evergreens, must be protected against wind and sun which cause so much damage on account of excessive evaporation of moisture from the leaves at a time when no moisture is being taken into the plant through the root system. Continued, steady cold and a permanent covering of snow are generally sufficient to tide a plant through the severest part of winter, but an open winter, followed by severe cold, or the alternate freezing and thawing in spring, will work havoc. Mulching, therefore, is equally important, not only to control sudden changes in temperature in extreme weather, but also to maintain a cool, even temperature in early spring. One of the common impressions in connection with mulching for purposes of winter protection is that plants are really being pro- tected against extreme cold. Nothing could be farther from the truth. It is not possible to protect plants against freezing conditions, especially during the cold winters of our north when frost enters the soil to a depth of two to three feet. Under such conditions no normal depth of mulch consisting of rotted leaves or manure could keep frost out of the soil surrounding the roots of the plants. The real reason then is a different reason from that of being a desire to ward off a freezing condition. It is the desire not of warding off the cold but of preventing abnormal evaporation of moisture from the WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING 101 leaves and especially from the lower part of such plants as the roses which are particularly sensitive to this type of evaporation. It is for this reason that plants which do not have well-ripened wood like the golden bell and certain varieties of the deutzia are subject to injury be- cause of this evaporation. Other plants like the bush honeysuckle and lilacs which succeed in developing thoroughly ripened wood before winter approaches do not suffer so much. There are two important sources of injury (outside of the gnawing by animals) which can cause plants to be injured during the winter months and as a protection against which mulching is necessary. The first is abnormal evapora- tion from the roots and stems of plants that are in exposed situations, and the second a liability of being heaved from the ground where a clay loam soil is subjected to violent changes of freezing and thawing. It is for this same reason that standard roses and climbing roses are frequently lost during the winter months because they are protected by a thin covering of straw, and evaporation is allowed to continue, when, in reality, they should be taken down and buried in soil which remains moist throughout the winter months and thus protects the stems against evaporation. Sources of Winter Injury, and Remedies. One source of winter injury is a heaving in clayey soils which exposes roots of small and newly transplanted plants. This may be remedied by applying a ground mulch of straw litter or manure over the entire area immediately around the trees and covering the area of root growth. Another source is pre- mature activity of the sap, due to the warmth of the sun's rays. If the ground is frozen hard and deep, and sun and severe winds strike ever- green plants they will " scorch " or dry out because sap cannot flow from the roots to take the place of that evaporated. Many evergreens which are exposed to severe winter conditions are in reality killed during the months of January and February; but the damage done does not be- come evident until time for spring growth to begin during the months of April and early May. If the evergreens which have been killed during the winter months in the nursery are dug and shipped to owners of estates at a time prior to spring growth and prior to a time when it is possible for a nurseryman to determine whether or not the plant is in a normal growing condition, plants killed in this manner (because of the lack of winter protection) do not show the injury until the growing season, at which time, with the beginning of warm growing weather, the 102 THE COMPLETE GARDEN leaves turn brown. Conditions of this kind often follow a severe winter. During a severe winter in which successive freezing and thaw- ing conditions are a common occurrence evergreens are apt to be seriously damaged. Under such conditions it is the heat which causes the worst injury to the evergreens during these winter months and, as commonly believed, this is not injury due to excessive cold. A suc- cession of extremely cold nights and warm thawing conditions during the day causes excessive evaporation from the leaves which, as hereto- fore mentioned, cannot be replaced through the dormant root system, the soil surrounding which has not been sufficiently warmed to excite growth. This evaporation may be stopped by shelter fences or by wrapping the plants with straw "overcoats." Care should be taken, however, to avoid wrapping too tightly, or injury to the plant will result from heating of foliage. Boxwood hedges also, particularly when young, should be covered to prevent winter injury in sections of the country where the temperature may fall as low as zero during the winter months. Such hedges may be boxed, or they may be banked with cornstalks or coarse litter and also with evergreen boughs. One of the best protections for boxwood hedges (as well as broad-leaved evergreens) is to be certain that they have a thorough soaking, especially during a dry fall, immediately before the freezing weather begins. Mice often injure plants, and where this occurs mulching should be delayed until cooler weather, when the rodents will have nested elsewhere. Poisoning may be resorted to by placing poisoned wheat in drain tiles among the mulch. Mice and rabbits will gnaw certain shrubs and fruit trees, such as quinces, spireas, forsythias, etc. Such plants should be protected, especially the first year, by tar paper or burlap if mice are present. Wrapping should begin slightly below the surface of the ground at the base of the tree, and extend to a height of two feet. The author is advised on good authority that where there is excessive danger that the base of certain shrubs and fruit trees will be gnawed by mice and rabbits, an excellent method of protection is that of mulching these hedges with coal ashes to a depth of three to four inches around the immediate base of the plant. The gritty condition of this material is evidently objectionable to rabbits and mice and its use has saved a number of valuable hedge plants. Perennials — Winter Protection of. Perennials should have a good mulch of well-rotted manure, straw, leaves, etc., applied just be- WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING 103 fore freezing weather, in a late fall, and at the beginning of freezing weather in an early fall. In reality, it is not as essential, as we often assume it to be, that perennial borders, regardless of the material they contain or the type ot soil in which the perennials are planted, should be mulched during the winter months. There are hundreds of gardens which pass through the winter without any protection whatsoever being given to the plants. These gardens are not, however, those which are developed on clay loam soil. The general feeling is that plants are mulched and given this winter protection because otherwise they would not be hardy. Quite to the contrary, most of these per- ennials are hardy, and as a matter of fact it is rarely possible that any amount of mulching such as is ordinarily provided for the garden can make any perennial hardy which is not by nature perfectly hardy in the climatic and exposed condition where it is growing. Every person who is responsible for the mulching of a perennial garden should use only a loose texture of material for mulching purposes. When mulching perennials place stakes beside small plants and those which begin growth late in the spring. This will prevent any loss when the mulch is spaded in or removed in the spring. Perennials with persistent leaves should not be mulched with anything which will mat down. This applies to foxgloves, hollyhocks, sweet williams, and violas. Cornstalks and leaves which drop late are best for such a mulch. Boxes filled with leaves may be inverted over plants; but when this is done the top should be watertight or damage may follow. Some tender plants such as pansies and snapdragons may be carried over the winter if a heavy mulch is applied before freezing weather appears. Bulbs and Lilies — Winter Protection of. Eremurus and the tenderest lilies should be protected by a mound of ashes which will help shed water and retain an even temperature. All bulbs should be mulched with leaves, manure, or litter. If bulbs are planted in the heavier types of soil it is quite necessary to cover the crown with a good mulch which will maintain in the ground a more even temperature and will lessen the possibility of injury to the bulbs because of sudden fluctuations of temperature (freezing and thawing conditions), which cause heaving of the soil. It should be borne in mind that bulbs start growth very early in the spring. If the mulch is left on the sur- face of the ground until after the bulbs have started growth, especially in a sunny exposure, then the bulbs become spindly and strong plants 104 THE COMPLETE GARDEN and flowers do not develop. In the planting of crocuses late in the fall it is advisable to cover the ground immediately with some freslz straw manure which will keep the temperature of the ground from be- coming too cold until after the bulbs have developed slight root growth. Vines — Winter Protection of. Vines and various climbers, such as climbing roses or trained fruit trees, when growing against a southern or western wall, should be protected by burlap from the winter and early spring sun, which may cause growth to start too soon. Very tender vines, such as jasmine and some clematises and roses, can best be taken down and buried, especially where local climatic conditions or exposures are severe. When plants are so treated they should be allowed to lie on the ground for ten days or two weeks after they have been uncovered in the spring. This allows the canes time to harden-ofF. Roses — Winter Protection of. Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpet- uals in most winters can be safely carried over by hilling up the soil about the plants to a height of six or eight inches, thus covering the lowest six buds, and then covering the plants with hardwood leaves eighteen to twenty-four inches deep. The leaves should be held in place with cornstalks or brush to prevent their being blown away. A three or four inch blanket of stable manure may be applied before the leaves are used and a windbreak of boughs of pine or fir trees, or cornstalks may be substituted for the leaves if manure is used. Cul- tivation should be stopped in September to discourage late growth, but the plants should be thoroughly soaked with water in October, just be- fore hilling them up. This protection should be removed piecemeal in the spring, to gradually harden-ofF the plants. Standard roses may be protected by laying them on the ground and treating them as tender vines. This is the most satisfactory method. They may also be wrapped with straw and burlap, or boxed, with a filling of leaves within the box. The safest method in severe exposures is that of burying them. Rhododendrons — Winter Protection of. Rhododendrons, other broad-leaved evergreens and, to a certain extent, all other ever- greens, are apt to be scalded in winter by the morning sun shining through the coating of ice or snow upon the leaves, unless they are WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING 105 shielded. They should be mulched also during both winter and summer. The mulching of rhododendrons for summer is done for the purpose of providing a thin layer of leaf mold which will produce as nearly as possible the natural conditions of the undisturbed soil in the woods and fields where rhododendrons grow. Mulching for winter protection is effected by banking the plants with a deep layer of leaves. These leaves prevent excessive freezing and possible heaving of the soil around the roots. Rhododendrons are further protected by building a screen of evergreen boughs or of cornstalks entirely around the plantation, but especially on the exposed side. A portion of the leaves used in the winter mulch can be left when the mulch is removed in the spring. Under no conditions should an attempt be made to spade this mulch of leaves into the ground in the spring. It may be loosened slightly with a fork, but because this plant has its roots so near the surface the ground around the roots, below the natural surface, should not be disturbed. Trees and Shrubs — Winter Protection of. When mulching trees care should be taken to extend the mulch out as far as the roots extend, or at least as far as the ends of the branches extend. Most of the Japanese flowering peaches, cherries, etc., need a four-inch root mulch every winter in severe climates. Boxbushes, many other ever- greens, and some deciduous material should be tied in winter. This is done to keep the plant from splitting under the weight of the heavy snows. Bands of rye straw or burlap are better than string for tying. Shrubs and trees when planted in groups or plantations, being thus close together, will protect each other to a considerable extent. When plants are of doubtful hardiness, screens may be erected for protection on the most exposed sides, or completely surrounding the plants. Such screens may be made of poles to which is attached brush or burlap. Another method is to make a screen of boards. Screens are frequently used to protect evergreens, trees, and shrubs. A shed without sides also may be constructed over such plantings. This is done to avoid loss by drip from buildings, or breakage from the weight of snow. Shrubs may be wrapped with straw or burlap, the covering being bound with raffia or twine. A pole is usually placed inside the wrapping to prevent the plant from bending or breaking. It is pref- erable, however, to plant more hardy types of material, because screens are extremely unsightly unless the plants are in an obscure location. 106 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Lawns — Mulching of. After the first year it is generally not necessary to protect lawns in winter. If a mulch is desired use straw or well-rotted manure old enough so that there is no danger from weed seeds. In the spring the coarse manure should be removed and the finer portions pressed in with a heavy roller. Heavy, coarse manure is apt to suffocate the growing grass and leave bare spots on the lawn. General Conditions. Fall-planted material, especially perennials, and in the heavier soils, should be well protected during the first winter with a mulch of strawy manure or hardwood leaves. Compact or fresh manures should be avoided. Fresh manures, free from straw, will burn the plants, and compact manures will cause decay and fermentation, due to lack of aeration. A good strawy manure should be used. In the spring the litter may be removed, and the finer portions of the mulch spaded into the beds. When leaves are used, provision must be made to prevent them from blowing away. Boards, branches, or wire netting can be used for this purpose. Mulch- ing, applied very early, may be harmful by reason of encouraging late root action and top growth. Therefore, it is always advisable to delay root mulching until, after several light freezes, a crust has formed on the ground. Evergreen boughs, when procurable, make an ex- cellent protective covering. After a dry fall most plants, except some perennials, are benefited by being thoroughly soaked with water before freezing weather occurs. This is especially true of conifers and broad- leaved evergreens. Cultivation in shrub and perennial beds can be stopped as soon as danger from weeds maturing their seeds is over. This will furnish some protection and will also discourage late growth of plants. PART II LISTS FOR REFERENCE CHAPTER IX EVERGREENS The variation in adaptation of evergreens has come to be a much- debated question among horticulturists and landscape architects who are called upon to use them. An interesting fact is discovered after some study of evergreens. The hardy types are not perfectly hardy under the varying conditions of climate and exposure in various sections of the country. Therefore, evergreens should be selected for landscape plantings with a considerable knowledge of their ability to withstand local conditions. The factors which are evidently most injurious to the normal development of evergreens as a group are: (i) sudden variations in climatic conditions; (2) condition of the soil; (3) exposure; and (4) atmospheric conditions in the vicinity of congested city districts. A short discussion of these factors, as bearing upon the growth of ever- greens, may be of value. 1. Climatic Conditions. It is a safe assumption that evergreens which are indigenous to sections of country where the climatic condi- tions are severe will withstand similar conditions in any other section of the country unless the other factors, of soil, exposure, and atmo- spheric conditions are extremely adverse. An interesting fact is seen in the repeated endeavour to acclimate evergreens, which otherwise are hardy, to the sudden changes of temperature experienced along the shores of the Great Lakes. Evergreens which are perfectly hardy in the severe climate of New York State and New England, and even in Michigan, will not prove hardy when used close to the shores of the Great Lakes. While no one has given a definite reason for this, it is presumed that the sudden changes of climatic condition are responsible for the failure of many plants. In general, in the selection of ever- greens, the more tender varieties should not be far removed from climatic conditions in which they are known to be perfectly hardy, 109 no THE COMPLETE GARDEN unless the person using such plants expects the inevitable loss which will be experienced during a very severe winter. 2. Condition of the Soil. The question of soil conditions with reference to the planting of evergreens is more important in the clayey sections of the Middle West than in most of the other sections of the country. In the northern portions of the Middle West this is not so evident, because the summer months are not as hot and dry as they are farther south. Even the more hardy evergreens will not withstand the stiff clay conditions of the Middle West during the hot summer months, at which times this clay bakes very hard. Ever- greens, to be grown most successfully, should be planted in a loose, sandy-loam or clay-loam soil, and should not be planted directly in a soil the predominating portion of which is clay. Therefore the soil conditions should be examined closely before it is definitely decided to use evergreens, and the list of evergreens shown under IX-B are those which are most hardy and best adapted to the climatic conditions and soil conditions of the Middle West, as proven by years of experience and careful observation. 3. Exposure. If the more tender types of evergreens which do not normally grow under the most severe climatic conditions are selected for use in a section where the climatic conditions are severe, then such plants should be so located that the exposure from the prevailing winds of winter is greatly reduced. It is possible to use most of the evergreens shown in Group IX-A in any section of the country, provided a proper exposure is selected and the proper winter protection is given. Many times this is impracticable, because evergreens are selected to be of equal value during the winter months and during the summer months. There is no windbreak or screen as yet developed for the protection of evergreens against exposure which in itself does not detract t,o a great extent from the beauty of these plantations during a period of the year when their foliage should be most effective. 4. Atmospheric Conditions. Many evergreens are used in the vicinity of our congested city districts, or in locations where the prevailing winds surround them with an atmosphere polluted with dust, smoke, and gases, all of which are very injurious to most ever- greens. Only the most hardy evergreens should be used under such conditions, and in order to keep them in a normal growing condition Plate XVIII. Upon a spacious lawn effective use can occasionally be made of trees and shrubs possessing symmetrical habits of growth and fine flowering and fruiting qualities. The deutzia is a shrub with these capabil- ities; but it is seldom seen as a specimen plant. Restraint, however, must be observed and a dotted effect avoided. (See chapter XIV) Tj — , o 3 1 CT* 3 CD C3 -* 4- 1 C3 >, rt 13 P i . ::'-:; hedges: Brrhr<~is thur. Thunberg's Japanese Barberry Cf*T£T un variety) Thorn Hippoph/u rkamnoidrs Sea Buckthorn Rhamxus Common Buckthorn Spiraea vanhc l Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath Rosa (in variety) Native Rose R .-j rugosa Japanese Rose ■ Buffalo Berry ' Shspkerdia canadsnsis (on lime) Canadian Buffalo Berry - v vin variety) Snowberrv ;-. Shady plates: um Silver Maple English Hawthorn Lonicrrc i Fly Bush Honeysuckle Common Mock Orange Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath . s racemosus Snowberry Plate XX. An effective combination of stone work and of plantings in an informal lawn. Varieties of stonecrop, moss pinks and Scotch pinks [end charm to an otherwise uninteresting mass of stone. (See plate I.I 1 1, page j 54, for lily planting shown in background of this picture.) 1 See page [39.) Plate XXI. An uninteresting rocky slope often can be turned into an attractive landscape feature through the careful selection and planting of plants adapted to light, sandy soils. This slope is covered with a grouping of hardy pinks, evergreen candy-tuft, saxifrage and tufted pansy. (See page 139) CHAPTER XIII PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING A very important question in the proper development of a lawn is how to give it a background and suitable enclosure of trees and shrubs. This chapter is especially concerned with the types of shrubs which are used as masses of planting in the shrub borders. These shrubs may be used in isolated groups or in a continuous border, the object of either method of arrangement being to provide a frame for the picture. There are two types of lawns : the refined lawn area, and the more natural lawn area which fits into the existing landscape and which is not kept as well mowed and as neatly edged. The refined lawn area requires a type of shrub planting which must be neat in its outlines, possessing an interesting touch of foliage, flowers, and fruit, and naturally making a compact mass. This material is usually selected from the refined types of nursery-grown stock such as spirea, privet, snowball, golden bell, honeysuckle, and mock-orange. In every border planting, if carefully analyzed, there will be found three distinct types of shrubs: those which are tall growing, averaging from seven to ten feet in height; those which are of medium growth, averaging from four to seven feet in height; and those which are low growing, averaging from two to four feet in height. It is essential properly to group these shrubs in order to have a compact foliage effect carrying from the higher shrubs through the lower shrubs to meet the turf. It is very important, however, in the grouping of the different types of low, medium, and tall-growing shrubs in refined plantings not only to know the normal height which the shrubs attain but to know whether the foliage texture on one shrub is extremely fine and that on another shrub extremely coarse. For instance, the Japanese barberry is not used to the best advantage in front of the coarser, medium-growing varieties of flowering currant, sumac, or viburnum. It is much better adapted for use in front of the spirea, white kerria, and privet, shrubs with smaller types of foliage. The reason is that the sudden transition 127 128 THE COMPLETE GARDEN from the extremely coarse texture of foliage to the extremely fine texture of foliage creates a discord in the landscape picture. There are many of the shrubs contained in the second group which are those used to compose border plantations on a large scale where the detailed study of the planting is not its most important side, but rather where the general mass effects seen at a distance produce the interest- ing effect. Shrubs which are selected for border planting on the re- fined lawn areas, which are usually much more restricted than the ex- tensive lawns, must stand the test of detailed study at the same time that they prove their value as mass effects. The shrubs which are valuable for the less-refined and extensive lawn areas may consist of some of the shrubs for refined lawn plant- ings, such as the snowballs and the honeysuckles; but in general many of these shrubs are more or less native and generally collected locally. It is a difficult task to define the material which should be used in border plantings on the larger lawn areas where the coarser mass effects will meet the requirements. In general, most of the shrubs which are adapted to plantings on the refined lawn areas are adapted to the second type of plantings; but not all of the shrubs included in the second group and adapted to the more unrefined lawn areas are adapted in any way to use on the limited refined lawn areas. LIST OF PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING A. Masses for Refined Lawn Areas. This group consists of both low-growing and tall-growing types of shrubs, mostly of a hardy foliage type, neat in the habit of their growth, compact in the texture of their foliage, and comparatively free from the ravages of insects and scale. The evergreen shrubs which can appropriately be interjected into border plantings are few in number and must be used sparingly. They are omitted from the following altogether. a. Low-growing shrubs {approximately three feet tall): Berberis thunbergi Deutzia lemoinei Thunberg's Japanese Barberry , Lemoine's Deutzia Callicarpa purpurea Hypericum moserianum Beauty Fruit Gold Flower Caryopteris incana Hypericum patulum henryi Blue Spirea Hybrid St. John's Wort Deutzia gracilis Kerria japonica Slender Deutzia Globe Flower - PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING 129 Myrica ceriferr, Bayberry Rosa spinosissima Scotch Rose Spiraea arguta Hybrid Snow Garland Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer Crimson Spirea Spiraea japonica alba Dwarf White Spirea Stephanandra flexuosa Stephanandra Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Xanthorrhiza apiifolia Yellowroot b. Medium-growing shrubs {from four to seven feet tall). Amelanchier rotundifolia June Berry Aralia pentaphylla Five-leaved Angelica Cornus (in variety) Dogwood Cotoneaster dielsiana Chinese Cotoneaster Cotoneaster lucida Hybrid Cotoneaster Diervilla hybrida — Eva Rathke Hybrid V/eigela Evonymus alatus Cork-barked Burning Bush Evonymus yedoensis Japanese Spindle Tree Forsythia intermedia spectabilis Hybrid Golden Bell Ligustrum amurense Amoor River Privet Ligustrum ibota regelianum Regel's Privet Magnolia stellata Starry Magnolia Primus japonica (in variety) Flowering Almond Prunus triloba Flowering Plum Rhodotypos kerrioides White Kerria Rhus canadensis (horizontal form) Fragrant Sumac Rhus copallina Shining Sumac Ribes aureum Flowering Currant Sophora viciifolia Sophora Spiraea prunifolia Bridal Wreath Spiraea vanhouttei Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath Spiraea veitchi Veitch's Spirea Syringa persica Persian Lilac Viburnum carlesi Korean Viburnum Viburnum cassinoides Withe-rod Viburnum dilatatum Japanese Bush Cranberry Viburnum tomentosum Single Japanese Snowball c. Tall-growing shrubs {growing over seven feet tall). Cercis canadensis Red-bud Diervilla flnribunda Pink Weigela Diervilla florid a Rose-coloured Weicrela Evonymus bungeanus Bunge's Spindle Tree Evonymus europaeus European Spindle Tree Exochorda grandiflora Pearl Bush 13° THE COMPLETE GARDEN Forsythia intermedia Hybrid Golden Bell Forsythia suspensa fortunei Fortune's Golden Bell Forsythia viridissima Dark Green Golden Bell Lonicera hella Zabel's Honeysuckle Lonicera maacki Late-blooming Honeysuckle Lonicera morrowi Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Philadelphus coronarius Common Mock Orange Philadelphus falconeri Falconer's Mock Orange Syringa (in variety) Lilac Viburnum lantana Wayfaring Tree Viburnum lentago Sheep Berry Viburnum opulus High Bush Cranberry B. Masses Consisting Mostly of Native Collected Shrubs. This group consists mostly of shrubs which are indigenous to the sec- tion of the country where they are used. These plants are adapted to plantations on a large or small scale, where a feeling of formality or of definite refinement of detail is not required. It is difficult to differentiate fully between the two groups in this chapter. A number of shrubs may equally well, under expert selection and placing, be used in either group interchangeably. a. Low-growing shrubs: Azalea lutea Flame-coloured Azalea Azalea nudiflora Pinkster Flower Azalea vaseyi Carolina Azalea Callicarpa purpurea Beauty Fruit Ceanothus americanus New Jersey Tea Comptonia asplenifolia Sweet Fern Diervilla trifida Bush Honeysuckle Filipendula purpurea Steeple Bush Hypericum aureum Large-flowered St. John's Wort Itea virginica Virginian Willow Myrica cerifera Bayberry Rhodora canadensis Rhodora Rosa nitida Shining-leaved Rose Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant b. Medium-growing shrubs: Amorpha fruticosa False Indigo Aronia arbutifolia Red Chokeberry Aronia melanocarpa Black Chokeberry Azalea arborescens Smooth Azalea PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING 131 Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Cephalanthus occidentalis Button Bush Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Dirca palustris Leatherwood Evonymus americanus Strawberry Bush Hydrangea arborescens Wild Hydrangea Ilex glabra Inkberry Kalmia Laurel Rhododendron (in variety) Rhododendron Rhus canadensis Fragrant Sumac Roses (In variety) Viburnum acerifolium Maple-leaved Viburnum Tall-growing shrubs: Amelanchier canadensis Shad-bush Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Corylus americana Hazelnut Crataegus (in variety) Thorn Evonymus atropurpureus Burning Bush Hamamelis virginiana Witch Hazel Ilex verticillata Winterberry Pyrus (in variety) Crab Sambucus canadensis American Elder Sambucus racemosa Red-berried Elder Staphylea irifolia American Bladder-nut Viburnum (in variety) Viburnum CHAPTER XIV ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS There are two kinds of specimen plants, those which are used as single specimens, with full space allowed for their normal development, and those which are used as accent plants in masses of border planting, because, as such, on account of their flowering and foliage habits, they lend a definite touch of interest to the plantation. The various plants included in this group are those which have a normal symmetrical habit of growth, or those which can easily be kept in a neat, symmetrical outline. In order fully to understand the difference between specimen trees and shrubs, and trees and shrubs for border plantings in groups, the reader should first know that many of our trees and shrubs are not adapted to so-called "mass plantings." Under the crowded condition of mass plantings these trees and shrubs do not produce any of their interesting characteristics of flowers and general outline. Much dead growth becomes evident on account of the exclusion of light and air necessary for their proper development. It is necessary to examine but a few plantations further to know that many trees and shrubs most interesting when used as individual specimens or as groups of two or three plants make a most uninterest- ing group when massed in quantity. In general it may be said that specimen piants are used as such because of their fruiting habit, flowering habit, interesting outline, or general foliage effect, which is evidenced at its best when the material is planted as individual specimens. So-called specimen plants in this group are often used as accent plants in the larger and massed plantations, because of the quality of the flowers, the colour of the foliage, the habit of their growth, or the texture and colour of twigs. Many specimen plants can be used to good advantage scattered here and there in the border plantations to emphasize one or more of these interesting characteristics, and they sometimes are even more effectively used in this way as accent plants than as specimen plants on the lawn. Whenever material is selected as specimen material it should be 132 ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS 133 planted as such, and space should be provided wherein the plants can develop their individual and normal characteristic habits of growth; but when they are used as accent plants it is not so essential to provide space for normal development. Illustrations of this may be seen in the use of the burning bush, the sourwood, and the silver bell. LIST OF ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS The types of plants in these two groups are sometimes used in large masses as specimens or as accent plants. The best effect as specimens is obtained when they are used singly and as accent plants when they are used either singly or in groups varying from one to three specimens. These plants are valuable because of flowers, foliage, habit of growth, texture of growth, colour of twigs, or fruiting effect. A. Trees. a. Accent and specimen trees: Abies (in variety) Fir Acer palmatum (in variety) Japanese Maple Acer platanoides schwedleri Schwedler's Purple Maple Aesculus (in variety) Horse-chestnut Betula (in variety) Birch Catalpa bungei Round-leaved Catalpa Cercidiphyllum japonicum Kadsura Tree Cercis canadensis Red-bud Chamaecyparis (in variety) Cypress Cladrastris lute a Yellow-wood Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Cornus kousa Japanese Dogwood Crataegus (in variety) Thorn Fagus (in variety) Beech Fagus sylvatica heterophylla Fern-leaved European Beech Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Koelreuteria paniculata Varnish Tree Larix (in variety) Larch Liquidambar styraciflua Sweet Gum Magnolia (in variety) Magnolia Morus alba tatarica pendula Tea's Weeping Mulberry Nyssa sylvatica Tupelo Oxydendrum arboreum Sourwood Picea (in variety) Spruce Pinus (in variety) Pine Populus alba pyramidalis Bolle's Poplar Populus nigra italica Lombardy Poplar Prunus jruticosa pendula Weeping Cherry Prunus padus commutata Hybrid European Bird Cherry Prunus persica Flowering Peach i 3 4 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Prunus pissardi Sorbus quercifolia Purple-leaved Plum Oak-leaved Mountain Ash Pyrus (in variety) Taxodium distichum Crab Bald Cypress Quercus (in variety) Tilia tomentosa Oak Silver Linden Salix blanda Thuja (in variety) Wisconsin Weeping Willow Arborvitae Salix vitellina britzensis Tsuga canadensis (in variety) Hybrid Yellow Willow Canadian Hemlock Sciadopitys verticillata Ulmus foliacea wheatleyi Umbrella Pine Wheatley's Cornish Elm Ulmus glabra camperdozvni Camperdown Weeping Elm b. Columnar and pyramidal trees: Oftentimes situations arise in the solution of landscape problems where the use of trees for their pyramidal or columnar habit of growth becomes almost a necessity. This necessity may arise because of such features being an important part of the landscape composition, or it may arise because of the screen effect which the designer is desirous of producing where trees must develop within a narrow space of from two to four feet. Most of the trees in this group develop normally into a pyramidal or columnar form like the pyramidal maples, the poplars, and the red cedar, quite unlike the spreading habit of the sugar maples, horse-chestnut, and beech. None of these trees lend themselves to use in plantations where a broad, informal character is desired in the picture; but all lend themselves for use in landscape planting where it is necessary to have a background of heavy foliage and an immediate garden planting close v to these trees. The planter should always bear in mind that a background of trees of this type, planted closely together, will be very injurious to a flower garden development, provided the screen planting is located on the southerly side of the flower garden, thus throwing dense shade over the garden during the greater part of the day. From another point of view, however, this type of tree planted closely together will prove a wonderful asset if planted on the southerly .side of some fountain or garden terminus where it is desired to produce a heavy shade. Abies brachyphylla Acer Sacckarinum pyramidale Nikko Fir Pyramidal Silver Maple Abies concolor Acer saccharum monumentale White Fir Pyramidal Sugar Maple ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS 135 Betula alba fastigiata Pyramidal White Birch Carpinus betulus fastigiata Pyramidal Hornbeam Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Lawson's Cypress Juniperus communis suecica Swedish Juniper Juniperus virginiana pyramidalis Pyramidal Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana schotti Schott's Red Cedar Liriodendron tulipifera pyramidalis Pyramidal Tulip Tree Picea excelsa columnaris Columnar Norway Spruce Picea excelsa pyramidalis Pyramidal Norway Spruce Populus alba pyramidalis Bolle's Poplar Ulmus foliacea wheatleyi Wheatley's Cornish Elm Populus nigra italic a Lombardy Poplar Quercus robur pyramidalis Pyramidal English Oak Robinia pseudacacia pyramidalis Pyramidal Black Locust Sorbus hybrida fastigiata Pyramidal Mountain Ash Taxodium distichum pyramidatum Pyramidal Bald Cypress Thuja occidentalis fastigiata Fastigiate Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis plicata Pyramidal Arborvitae Thuja orientalis pyramidalis Columnar Oriental Arborvitae Tsuga heterophylla Western Hemlock Ulmus foliacea dampieri Fastigiate Elm B. Shrubs. Aesculus parviflora Dwarf Horse-chestnut Azalea (in variety) Azalea Caragana arborescens Siberian Pea Shrub Chaenomeles japonica Japanese Quince Chionanthus retusa Chinese Fringe Tree Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cornus stolonifera flavirammea Golden-twigged Osier Corylus maxima purpurea Purple-leaved Hazel Diervilla hybrida lutea-marginata Variegated Weigela Deutzia scabra Single White Deutzia Evonymus alatus Cork-barked Burning Bush Evonymus americanus Strawberry Bush Evonymus europaeus European Spindle Tree Exochorda grandiflora Pearl Bush Halesia Carolina Silver Bell Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Hydrangea (in variety) Hydrangea Prunus japonica Flowering Almond Prunus triloba Flowering Plum Rhus cotinus Smoke Bush Robinia hispida (grafted high) Rose Acacia Sambucus canadensis aurea Golden Elder Stewartia pentagyna Alleghany Stewartia Tamarix odessana Caspian Tamarisk CHAPTER XV PLANTS VALUABLE FOR USE IN ROCK GARDENS, IN JAPANESE GARDENS, AND IN WALL CREVICES A fully developed estate to-day is not complete without an in- teresting rock garden, not because it gives an interesting physical variety to the landscape, but because it provides an opportunity for the development of one of our most interesting groups of plants, those plants which grow their best and prove most interesting in a miniature landscape of this rocky character. These gardens have been de- veloped to perfection on many English estates. The group of plants valuable for the development of rock garden work is comparatively little known to the amateur, and yet there are used in rock gardens many interesting types frequently used for other purposes. It is true that many of the plants grown for rock gardens are very dwarf in their habit of growth and much more sensitive to changed conditions of soil and exposure, and that many of them there- fore require expert labour for their normal development. The most interesting group of plants, perhaps, for rock garden work, includes the plants known as "alpine" plants, which are low-growing, very dense, and compact in their habit of growth. Most of these plants have small leaves and the flowers are rather brilliant and marked in their colours. The term "alpine" plants to-day is applied in its general use to that dwarf and low-growing group of plants which have a tendency to compactness of habit, and which in their mature form of development seem to fit into the confined atmosphere of the average rock garden. The true rock garden plants may perhaps be the "alpine" types, but those plants which landscape architects use to-day for rock garden purposes include not only the "alpine" types but many small plants, even though they come from the lowlands, from the woods, or from the more arid desert sections. There are a few of the tall-growing types of plants, such as foxgloves and some of the single roses, which, though not dwarf in character, are ad- mirably fitted to the scale of rock garden work. 136 ROCK AND JAPANESE GARDENS, WALL CREVICES 137 To one who is in the beginning of this work of selecting plants for rock garden use the impression should not be conveyed that every plant which is dwarf in its habit of growth is desirable for the rock garden. Many of these plants are extremely undesirable, such as the creeping Jenny (lysimachia) and dead nettle {lamium maculatum), mostly because of their tendency to grow rampant and to crowd out and smother many of the more sensitive and more beautiful types of rock garden plants. These plants are also difficult to eradicate from the garden when once they become established. They should never be used except in a rock garden on an extensive scale where the tend- ency to spread will not eventually become offensive. In order to maintain the true rock garden character it is very essential that plants should be selected which are in harmony with the spirit of the garden. Many so-called rock gardens are filled with the more common annuals, with sweet williams, phlox, hollyhocks, and even large irises — plants which belong to an entirely different type of garden, or which, because of their size, are not in keeping with the scale of a minutely detailed rock garden. It is not necessary, in the development of an interesting rock gar- den, to use a large quantity of different types of plants. The success of a rock garden is dependent largely upon the ability of the designer to select proper types of plants for a specific purpose, whether the rock garden be very small and occupying only a corner of the lawn, or whether it be an extensive area in some wooded portion of the property. Such plants as hydrangeas, spireas, petunias, and many plants of these types which the reader has often seen in rock garden work, give evi- dence immediately of the lack of knowledge of plants and of their proper usage. It is true also that the plants which are used in rock gardens require an amount of care in their maintenance equal to that given plants in the more refined and formal types of garden work. For the person who has progressed along the path of successful rock gardening it might be well to suggest that he should endeavour to become intimately acquainted with the plants which he is using, especially their source of origin and the conditions under which they grew in their native locations. Plants which will withstand extreme drought, hot suns, and extreme cold, if they are planted in the correct locations in a rock garden, will not be hardy to any extent when planted in the open border. In other words, such plants as the cheddar pink i 3 8 THE COMPLETE GARDEN and the wild pink are considered to be true crevice plants, and they should be used only for that purpose in rock garden work. These plants have a type of environment equally as much as persons or animals and under which they thrive best. The beginner who is developing this type of garden should therefore only use the more common types of plants which have withstood the abuse of " amateurs " and should make use of the specialized plants only after a thorough knowledge is gained concerning them. One writer has said concerning the development of a rock garden that the designer should "have an idea and stick to it." We see so many rock gardens which are so-called and which in reality are only a miscellaneous pile of stones. Rock gardens in their true sense are an imitation of some condition of nature, both from their physical makeup and from their planting. We should therefore make a double effort to strive toward the development of the idea. One of the most successful ways for obtaining good rock garden plants is to grow them from seed. It is often easier to seed plants in rock garden groups than it is to plant nursery-grown stock. LIST OF 'PLANTS VALUABLE FOR USE IN ROCK GARDENS, IN JAPANESE GARDENS, AND IN WALL CREVICES A. Evergreens. In every garden development of this kind, a touch of evergreen foliage, the texture of which is peculiar to evergreen plantings, is essential to lend the desired interest to the garden. These evergreens are extremely dwarf in character and not vigorous in their habit of growth. Buxus suffruticosa Dwarf Box Chamaecyparis obtusa nana Dwarf Japanese Cypress Chamaecyparis obtusa nana aurea Dwarf Golden Japanese Cypress Cornus canadensis Bunchberry Daphne cneorum Garland Flower Erica vagans Cornish Heath Gaultheria procumbens Wintergreen Juniperus communis Common Juniper Juniperus sabina Savin Juniper Juniperus sabina tamariscifolia Tamarisk-leaved Savin Linnaea borealis Twin Flower Mahonia repens Creeping Mahonia Pachistima canbyi Canby's Mountain Lover Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge Picea excelsa gregoriana Gregory's Dwarf Norway Spruce Pieris floribunda Mountain Fetterbush ROCK AND JAPANESE GARDENS, WALL CREVICES 139 Pinus montana mughus Dwarf Mountain Pine Pyxidanthera barbulata Flowering Moss Rhododendron carolinianum Dwarf Rhododendron Rhododendron ferrugineum Rusty-leaved Rhododendron Shortia galacifolia Shortia Taxus baccata repandens Spreading English Yew Taxus canadensis Ground Yew Taxus cuspidata nana Japanese Yew B. Deciduous Trees and Shrubs. Trees used in gardens of this kind must be the low-growing types with a compact habit of growth, and the shrubs also must be types which will lend themselves readily to the character of this kind of garden. It is hardly possible to define in words the exact character which the shrubbery must possess in order to be valuable for this type of planting. The trees and shrubs in this group may be used with safety, and there are many other shrubs which can be selected from other lists and used by experts. Acer palmatum Japanese Maple Azalea japonica Japanese Azalea Azalea nudiflora Pinkster Flower Cotoneaster adpressa Creeping Cotoneaster Cotoneaster horizontalis Prostrate Cotoneaster Deutzia gracilis Slender Deutzia Evonymus obovatus Running Strawberry Bush Hypericum moserianum Gold- flower Lonicera spinosa alberti Large-fruited Honeysuckle Philadelphus coronarius nanus Dwarf Mock Orange Rhodora canadensis Rhodora Viburnum opulus nanum Dwarf Bush Cranberry C. Perennials. This group of plants forms one of the most interesting phases of rock garden development. Most of these perennials are either heavy in their texture of foliage, or very dwarf in their habit of growth. They will adapt themselves to cultivation in the congested spaces so often found in garden developments of this kind. Achillea boule de neige Ball of Snow *Alyssum argenteum Silvery Madwort *Alyssum saxatile compactum Golden Tuft Anemone pennsylvanica Canadian Windflower Aquilegia canadensis American Columbine *Arabis alpina nana compacta Dwarf Alpine Rock Cress * Arenaria montana Sandwort Campanula carpatica Carpathian Harebell Centaurea montana Mountain Bluet *Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-summer *Plants especially well adapted for use in crevices of walls and paved areas. 140 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Ceratostigma plumb aginoides Leadwort Coreopsis verticillata Dwarf Tickseed Coronilla varia Crown Vetch Dalibarda repens Barren Strawberry *Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink *Dianthus plumarius Scotch Pink Dicentra eximia Wild Bleeding Heart Dodecatheon media Shooting Star Draba azoides Aizoon-like Whitlow Grass Epimedium macranthum Japanese Barrenwort Erysimum pulchellum Rock-loving Hedge Mustard Euphorbia corollata Flowering Spurge Geranium sanguineum Crane's Bill Hedera helix conglomerata Small-leaved English Ivy Helianthemum croceum Rock Rose Heuchera brizoides Red Coral-bells Heuchera sanguinea Coral-bells Iberis sempervirens Evergreen Candytuft Iris cristata Crested Iris Linaria cymbalaria Kenilworth Ivy Linaria cymbalaria maxima Large-flowered Kenilworth Ivy Linum perenne Perennial Flax Lychnis viscaria splendens Ragged Robin Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Viola (various Violet Nepeta mussini Catmint Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge *Phlox stolonifera Creeping Phlox Phlox subulata Moss Pink Primula veris English Cowslip Ranunculus acris flore pleno Double Buttercup Saponaria ocymoides Rock Soapwort Saxifraga cordifolia Saxifrage *Sedum acre Mossy Stonecrop *Sedum album White Stonecrop *Sedum sexangulare Dark Green Stonecrop Sedum spectabile Brilliant Stonecrop Silene maritima Seaside Campion Silene pennsylvanica Wild Pink Silene schafta Autumn Campion Stellaria holostea Starwort Stokesia cyanea Stokes' Aster Thalictrum aquilegijolium Meadow-rue * Thymus serpyllum languinosus Downy Thyme *Tunica saxifraga Saxifrage-like Tunica Vancouveria hexandra American Barrenwort Veronica incana Hoary Speedwell * Veronica repens Creeping Speedwell Vinca minor Periwinkle species) *Plants especially well adapted for use in crevices of walls and paved areas. CHAPTER XVI PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS While many trees and shrubs in the hands of expert designers and gardeners may be used interchangeably for either formal or informal effects, the fact still remains that there is a group of plants which are best adapted for use to produce the heavier and more compact formal effects. The effect of formality is obtained by emphasizing geometric lines or surfaces. Plants which are upright, slow-growing, and more compact in their habit, are better adapted for this purpose than plants which are more vigorous in their habit of growth, more spread- ing, and looser in texture and therefore less apt to retain a consistent, definite form. The expert may select plants from Chapter XVII and in many in- stances produce an effect equally as attractive as that produced by plants in this group. The possibilities of failure, however, are much greater, and the subsequent necessity of pruning to retain ap- proximate forms is much greater. We speak of heavy formality as a contrasting term to plants which are loose. Compact may be a better word. It is often necessary to develop border plantations surrounding lawns filled with a feeling of formality, because of numerous axial lines, and also to surround or border definite formal garden areas with trees and shrubs. To be successful these masses of plants must lend themselves to this formal effect. They must be such as can be kept within definite limits with the normal amount of pruning. The European hornbeam, the red cedar, pyramidal arborvitae, and tartarian honeysuckle are excellent illustrations of this type of material. A so-called formal effect in a border planting is not necessarily produced by the use of trees. It may be equally well produced by shrubs depending upon the scale of the landscape setting. It is not necessary either to resort to the use of evergreens, although there are certain types of architectural details beside which deciduous plantings appear "weak." Climatic conditions being favourable for a normal growth of the type of material 141 i 4 2 THE "COMPLETE GARDEN best suited, the decision to use evergreens or deciduous material will be governed by the effect which is desired. Topiary work as a type of planting producing formal effects is the extreme of artificial methods. Trees and shrubs which are selected for this purpose are included almost without exception in the group known as "evergreens and broad-leaved evergreens," such as the yews, holly, and boxwoods. The hawthorn and the beech are the marked exceptions to this general rule, and are plants capable of severe pruning to produce artificial and fantastic shapes. These plants must lend themselves readily to frequent and to severe prunings in order to produce these forms. While topiary work as a matter of design is ex- tremely limited in its application, there will often arise situations in which this extreme and violent treatment to produce the artificial forms in plants is justified. Topiary work has at times been very appropriately termed verdant sculpture. It is nothing more nor less than sculpture in plant forms so far as plants will lend themselves to details of such experiments. All of these plants which are especially adapted to topiary work are extremely slow growing and long lived. While many fantastic forms can be developed from such plants as the privet and hawthorn within a comparatively short period, the rare, more perfect, and permanent forms are usually the result of using the boxwood or yew. Most of these trees which are adapted to topiary work, especially the pyramidal form of topiary work, are upright grow- ing, single-stemmed specimens. Plants which are adapted to these effects must also be of a compact texture with foliage evenly developed to a point close to the ground. There are many deciduous plants which, while not being adapted to topiary work, are adapted to close shearing to produce formal effects. Many experts do not realize that there are various species of the same genera which lend themselves much more effectively to close shearing in definite forms than other species of that genera. The Japanese privet is much more effective in the lower hedge of two to four feet, because of its tendency to "mat," than the Amoor River privet, which has a tendency to make long growths. All of the deciduous plants in these groups are comparatively slow in growing habit. They have a tendency to frequent branching and a further tendency to throw out new growths from dormant buds when the ends of the existing branches are removed. While there is a considerable list of plants which are adapted for a ■r. o ~ t-i B o o c u X >, 4*J u M c c/: < 3 4-1 S-i _1 O PL) a c PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS 143 growing in tubs, as frequently seen, for accent points in a formal garden or on a terrace, the amateur should best confine himself to the Japanese laurel, the evergreen evonymus, the greenhouse hydrangea, pyramidal arborvitae, and the boxwood. Most of these should be transferred during the winter months, preferably to a cold cellar or to a cold house, and even those which are semi-hardy, if left out of doors, should be carefully boxed and protected. Perhaps the most interesting groups of trees and shrubs for formal effects are those which are valuable for use in pleached allees. This feature in the design of large estates has not yet reached its height and will become more popular with the development of landscape design as applied to American estates and gardens. The plants of this group must Be resistant to disease and insect pests and they must be able to thrive under conditions of severe pruning. The one most important requisite is that they shall be long lived and not easily broken by win- ter storms. The texture of branching must be close. To use for pleached allees trees, such as the birches, which are short lived and which always begin to deteriorate at a time when the allee should be most picturesque and at its height, is landscape folly. It takes years, five to eight years, to develop a pleached allee so that the tops will come together. To endeavour to hasten the growth of plants by excessive fertilization during the first two or three years will have a tendency to split the bark and to expose the trunks to severe injury from freezing and rotting. These plants should be of a spreading habit of growth as contrasted with the columnar habit of growth desired for open allees. While these specimens are planted at intervals of eighteen to twenty- four inches in rows, it often becomes necessary to interplant with the smaller specimens which will serve as fillers for the base. The normal distance between rows on either side of a pleached allee is six feet to eight feet. It is most advisable to train these plants to the pleached form by the use of iron pipe and wire. This can be done by a skilled gar- dener, by constant attention and the frequent use of pruning shears. Trees and shrubs for open allees must meet the one requirement of being close growing and columnar in their habit. An open allee may be developed with rapid-growing material as well as with slow-grow- ing material, and the time required is less than two-thirds as long as the time required to develop a pleached allee of the same height. Six to ten years may be required to develop an open allee eight to ten feet in height. The scale of the allee, whether wide, with a tall border 144 THE COMPLETE GARDEN on either side, or narrow, with a lower border, governs the type of material which should be selected. Here again, with such plants as the thorns and elms, a larger specimen may be used with a high head, and the smaller specimens may be planted between and on either side to produce the mass of foliage at the bottom. An illustration of this is shown in Plate No. XXVII on Page 198. This interesting open alleeof thorns and flowering dogwood is planted according to the following measurements. The distance between the middle line of each row of thorns is twenty-two feet s x inches. Each row was originally planted with high-headed thorns at a distance of four feet six inches apart in the row. Equally spaced at a distance approximating one foot six inches apart, small specimens two feet to three feet high were planted in a single row at a distance of one foot six inches on either side of the main row of thorns. These small thorns were for the purpose of producing a foliage effect beginning at the ground and extending into the higher heads of the larger thorns. The width between the rows of flowering dogwood is eight feet and the distance between each flowering dog- wood plant in each row is eight feet. The width of the walk in this picture is four feet. It is very essential to use types which have a branching habit to the extreme base of the main trunk if a perfect open allee is desired. LIST OF PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS A. Border Planting. This group of trees and shrubs is composed of those specimens which either lend themselves to a natural, compact effect when pruned, or which possess an even, close habit of growth, fitting them particularly for formal effects. Plants used for this purpose should not be those which have a tendency to sucker and to make any indifferent growths in different directions. Acer saccharinum pyramidale Pyramidal Silver Maple Acer saccharum monumentale Columnar Sugar Maple Betula alba fastigiala Pyramidal White Birch Carpinus betulus European Hornbeam Cat alp a bangei Round-leaved Catalpa Cercidiphyllum japonicum Kaj&sura Tree A Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Juniperus communis hibernica Irish Juniper Juniperus communis suecica Swedish Juniper Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana cannarti Columnar Tufted Cedar Juniperus virginiana glauca Blue Virginia Cedar PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS HS Juniperus virginiana schotti Schott's Red Cedar Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Picea excelsa pyramidalis Pyramidal Norway Spruce Populus alba pyramidalis Bolle's Poplar Populus nigra italica Lombardy Poplar Quercus robur fastigiata English Oak Sciadopitys verticillata Umbrella Pine Thuja occidentalis pyramidalis Pyramidal Arborvitae B. Topiary Work and Close Shearing. The plants in these two groups (a and b) are selected because they will adapt themselves, with careful attention, to close shearing and interesting topiary work. There are many plants which if sheared closely do not produce any effect of foliage until they have recovered from the pruning. All these speci- mens, however, can be sheared and still retain a mass foliage effect. a. Evergreen: Buxus (all sorts) Boxwood Chamaecyparis nootkatensis Yellow Cedar Chamaecyparis obtusa nana Dwarf Japanese Cypress Ilex crenata Japanese Holly Picea excelsa Norway Spruce Picea orientalis Oriental Spruce Pinus cembra Swiss Stone Pine Pinus densiflora umbraculifera Dwarf Japanese Red Pine Pinus montana Swiss Mountain Pine Pinus montana mughus Dwarf Mountain Pine Taxus cuspidata Japanese Yew Taxus cuspidata nana Japanese Yew Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock b. Deciduous: Acer campestre European Cork Maple Acer platanoides globosum Globe Norway Maple Berber is thunbergi Thunberg's Japanese Barberry Carpinus betulus European Hornbeam Carpinus betulus globosa Globe Hornbeam Catalpa bignonioides nana Dwarf Indian Bean Cornus paniculata Grey Dogwood Crataegus crus-galli Cockspur Thorn Crataegus oxycantha May Thorn Evonymus alatus Cork-barked Burning Bush Ilex glabra Inkberry Ligu strum ibota Japanese Privet Ligustrum vulgare European Privet Viburnum opulus nanum Dwarf Bush Cranberry Viburnum prunifolium Black Haw 146 THE COMPLETE GARDEN C. Growing in Tubs. One of the most successful sources of obtaining refinement of detail in formal work is through the use of plants grown in tubs. These are particularly adapted to terraces, areas around pools, and places where plants must be trained for a specific detailed effect, and oftentimes cannot be planted in the ground at the place where the effect is desired. Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Agapanthus umbellatus Blue Lily-of-the-Nile Allamanda (in variety) Allamanda Vine Aucuba japonica Japanese Laurel Bougainvillea (in variety) Paper Flower Buxus (many sorts) Boxwood Caryopteris incana Blue Spirea Eleagnus pungens Bronze Oleaster Evonymus japonicus Evergreen Evonymus Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Chinese Hibiscus Hydrangea opuloides otaksa Hydrangea Lagerstroemia indica Crape Myrtle Laurus nobilis Bay Tree Musa ensete Abyssinian Banana Nerium (in variety) Oleander Pyracantha coccinea lalandi Evergreen Thorn Thuja occidentalis pyramidalis Pyramidal Arborvitae Tabernaemontana (in variety) Crape Jasmine Trained fruit trees (all sorts) Vitex agnus-castus Chaste Tree D. Trees and Shrubs for Allees. All plants which are adapted to allee effects must be of a type which will respond to the operations of severe pruning. Those plants in Group a must have a special adaptation for a spreading habit of growth and yet a compact habit of growth. They must be such plants as will retain their foliage during a considerable period in order to produce and maintain the pleached allee effect. The deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs shown in Group b of this list are all adapted to types of open allee developments on different scales, to be in keeping with the general landscape effect. a. Pleached Acer campestre European Cork Maple Carpinus caroliniana American Hornbeam Carpinus betulus European Hornbeam Corylus maxima Filbert Crataegus oxycantha May Thorn Fagus sylvatica European Beech PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS 147 Quercus laurifolia (South of Washington) Laurel Oak Rhamnus cathartica Common Buckthorn Salix pentandra Laurel-leaved Willow Ulmus campestris English Elm b. Not pleached {Open Allees). 1. Deciduous: Acer saccharinum pyramidale Pyramidal Silver Maple Acer saccharum monumentale Columnar Sugar Maple Betula alba fastigiata Pyramidal White Birch Crataegus oxycantha May Thorn Larix leptolepsis Japanese Larch Populus nigra italica Lombardy Poplar Quercus robur fastigiata English Oak Sorbus quercifolia Oak-leaved Mountain Ash Taxodium distichum Bald Cypress Taxus baccata fastigiata Irish Yew Ulmus foliacea wheatleyi Wheatley's Cornish Elm Ulmus glabra fastigiata Columnar Elm 2. Evergreen: Abies brachyphylla Nikko Fir Juniperus excelsa stricta Slender Greek Juniper Juniperus virginiana schotti Schott's Red Cedar Picea excelsa columnaris Columnar Norway Spruce Picea excelsa pyramidalis Pyramidal Norway Spruce Picea omorika Servian Spruce Thuja occidentalis lutea Oriental Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis zvareana Siberian Arborvitae Thuja orientalis (northern grown) Oriental Arborvitae Thuja plicata Western Arborvitae CHAPTER XVII PLANTS FOR NATURAL, INFORMAL EFFECTS As contrasted with plants adapted to heavy or compact formal effects the plants of this group have a more open, looser habit of growth. They are apt to be not quite as refined in character in some instances, and they are not required to produce the neat line of foliage which are part of the more formal designs. It is difficult to define clearly, and to specify, what plants are to be used in informal effects. At the same time, a few standard kinds of plants to be used in the border plantations of lawns, in the border plantations of wild garden areas and informal garden areas should be listed for ready reference. It is much easier to use some of the plants included in the former list, especially those with the more vigorous, open habit of growth, for this type of planting, than to use plants in- cluded in this list for the same purpose as those included in the former list. Most large and small lawns which are not developed on definite, formal axial lines, should be bordered with plants of this kind. The reader is warranted in concluding that all plants not adapted for use in the preceding groups of plants for formal effects are automatic- ally placed in this present group. It is safe to select any plant in- digenous to the locality and also many of the introduced horticultural varieties, such as high-bush cranberry, flowering currant and dogwoods. Lilacs, tartarian honeysuckle, and hybrid rhododendrons, however, with greater refinement of foliage and of bloom, on the other hand, are obviously of more value in the more formal plantings. Collected stock is of great value for natural, informal effects. To reproduce nature and her group effects should be the object of natural, informal planting. A natural planting impresses the observer as does nature untouched by the hand of the designer, and this is a most difficult effect to obtain artificially. LIST OF PLANTS FOR NATURAL, INFORMAL EFFECTS It is difficult to define the effects which it is intended to produce through the use of plants included in this list. In general, these 148 PLANTS FOR NATURAL, INFORMAL EFFECTS 149 plants are selected because they are somewhat irregular in outline, loose in habit and texture of growth, and are not adapted to producing the neat lines of foliage required in formal development. Amelanchier oblongijolia Shad-bush Amelanchier rotundijolia June Berry Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cornus (in variety) Dogwood Deutzia (in variety) Deutzia Diervilla (in variety) Weigela Forsythia suspensa Drooping Golden Bell Hippophae rhamnoides Sea Buckthorn Laburnum vulgare Golden Chain Lonicera jragrantissima Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Philadelphus grandiflorus Large-flowered Mock Orange Physocarpus opulijolius Ninebark Prunus avium plena European Double-flowering Cherry Ptelea trifoliata Hop Tree Rhododendron (in variety) Native Varieties Rhus (in variety) Sumac Ribes (in variety) Flowering Currant Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Salix babylonica Weeping Willow Sambucus canadensis American Elder Spiraea vanhouttei Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Tamarix gallica French Tamarisk Viburnum opulus High-bush Cranberry CHAPTER XVIII LOW-GROWING PLANTS ALONG THE INNER SIDE OF CURVING ROADWAYS AND AT ENTRANCES Plants which are selected for use in this group must have a normally low-growing habit. In general, their maximum height should ap- proximate not more than five to six feet. If the eventual height of these plants is to be greater than this, they should be of such types as will lend themselves readily to pruning and still retain their natural outlines. On many private, estates, at the sharp curves of entrance drives and on either side of the main entrance, safety of traffic demands that an open view be preserved in order to avoid accidents. It becomes an important question in the development of such plans to decide upon material which should be selected for this purpose. If the degree of care which this material is to receive in the years subsequent to its original planting is that ordinarily given by an expert gardener, the designer may select many taller-growing species of shrubs, which, under this expert care, can be kept within the desired limits of growth. For those who wish to be perfectly safe in their selection, material included in this list represents the general range of the important genera and species which are available. There are many locations where high planting as a part of the general design is more desirable. In such instances a vista formed by using a group of lower shrubs can be used. If higher shrubs are desirable as a part of the design it is sometimes possible to preserve the open views by setting the. tall shrubs farther back from the sides of the drive. The fragrant honeysuckle is a good substitute where one might other- wise use types such as the tartarian honeysuckle. The pink weigela is much to be preferred to the other, coarser-growing types of weigelas. LIST OF LOW-GROWING PLANTS ALONG THE INNER SIDE OF CURVING ROADWAYS AND AT ENTRANCES The plants in this group are selected because of their low-growing habit. Many other specimens may be used, which under the care of 150 LOW-GROWING PLANTS 151 an expert gardener can be kept within definite bounds. Where open views are essential and expert care is lacking, the plants indicated in these groups should be used. A. Evergreen: Andromeda polifolia Wild Rosemary Chamaedaphne calyculata Leather-leaf Evonymus radicans carrieri Carrier's Japanese Evergreen Ivy Evonymus radicans vegetus Scarlet-fruited Japanese Evergreen Ivy Juniperus communis depressa Dwarf Juniper Juniperus horizontalis Trailing Juniper Juniperus sabina tamariscifolia Tamarisk-leaved Savin Juniperus virginiana tripartita Spreading Red Cedar Kalmia angustijolia Sheep Laurel (except clay or lime soil) Yucca flaccida Drooping-leaved Adam's Needle Mahonia repens Creeping Mahonia Picea excelsa gregoriana Gregory's Dwarf Norway Spruce Picea excelsa nana Dwarf Norway Spruce Pieris floribunda Mountain Fetterbush Taxus baccata repandens Spreading English Yew Taxus cuspidata brevifolia Short-leaved Japanese Yew Thuja occidentals globosa Globe Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis (Little Gem) Little Gem Arborvitae Yucca filamentosa Adam's Needle B. Deciduous: Amorpha canescens Lead Plant Ceanothus americanus New Jersey Tea Celastrus orbiculatus Japanese Bittersweet Deutzia gracilis Slender Deutzia Deutzia lemoinei Lemoine's Deutzia Deutzia rosea Dwarf Pink Deutzia Diervilla trifida Bush Honeysuckle Evonymus obovatus Running Strawberry Bush Itea virginica Virginian Willow Lonicera fragrantissima Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Lonicera spinosa alberti Large-fruited Honeysuckle Myrica cerifera Bayberry Rosa Carolina Carolina Rose Rosa setigera Prairie Rose Rosa spinosissima altaica Scotch Rose Rosa wichuraiana Memorial Rose Viburnum opulus nanum Dwarf Bush Cranberry Xanthorrhiza apiifolia Yellowroot CHAPTER XIX TREES AND SHRUBS FOR DIFFERENT FLOWERING EFFECTS Perhaps the most important use of plants is for the effect of the flowers. At least ninety per cent, of those who develop landscape plantations have foremost in their minds the effect that is to be produced by the flowers on the trees and shrubs grown in the plantation, whether it be on a large estate or on a small home lot. There are many other valuable characteristics, however, among which are the fruiting and the foliage effects. All of these, however, are entirely secondary to this one consideration concerning the flowers. The first thought in the use of shrubs for this purpose is to obtain flowers. It is only after some study and some thought on the subject that one realizes that shrubs may be used for many different flowering effects. We may use trees and shrubs to produce flowers at certain definite seasons, or we may use trees and shrubs to produce flowers of different colours at different seasons. The owner of the average home occupies his residence throughout the entire year. There is a group of people, however, owning both large and small homes, who occupy two or more homes each year, depending upon the season. They usually spend the spring and fall months at their residence, and hot summer months at a country home, either at the seashore or among the mountains. The first home owner must be provided with trees and shrubs which will produce as nearly as possible a flowering effect throughout the growing season, beginning with the shrubs which produce flowers before the leaves appear, such as the golden bell and the flowering plums, and ending with the shrubs such as altheas and the hydrangeas which produce flowers in the summer months. The family that occupies both a permanent residence and a country home, however, must have trees and shrubs surrounding the former which produce flowers during the spring and during the late summer and fall months; and at their summer home they must have, so far as 152 TREES AND SHRUBS FOR FLOWERING EFFECTS 153 possible, the summer-flowering types of trees and shrubs. For this reason, various groups have been outlined to embrace trees and shrubs producing flowers in the early spring before the leaves appear, and producing flowers in the early spring after the leaves appear, such as the spirea and the lilac; producing flowers during the summer months, such as the weigela and the mock orange; and producing flowers during the late summer and autumn months, such as the rose of Sharon and the hydrangea. It is therefore important in connection with our various plantations of trees and shrubs to consider specifically the period during the blooming season, when the maximum effect of flowers is desired. The second important consideration, in designing plantings of trees and shrubs, is the colour of the flowers. Flowering trees and shrubs, with respect to the colour of their flowers, may be divided into four definite groups: those which produce flowers in the shades of red and pink, such as pink-flowering dogwood, flowering peach, and the flowering crab; those which produce yellow flowers, such as the Scotch broom, yellow jasmine, and the golden bell; those which produce white flowers, such as the white fringe, hawthorn, hydrangea, and elders; and those which produce blue flowers (the smallest list of all), such as the blue spirea, blue rose of Sharon, and blue lilacs. Each of these groups may be divided, as shown by the tabulations, into early- flowering and late summer-flowering sorts. The entire discussion concerning the colour of the flowers in the average planting is more theoretical than practical; but in the other plantations, where there is sufficient space to obtain masses of flowering effects during the blooming period, considerable study should be given to the colour of the flowers. The small home owner in general is much more interested in his ability to procure trees and shrubs which will give him a continuous succession of bloom. This also is not always practical; but there is a group of standard shrubs, the use of which will provide as continuous bloom as can be obtained through the combination of any group of shrubs. It must be remembered that some varieties of shrubs will flower at a slightly later period than other varieties, and for this reason it is quite possible to obtain what seems to be a continuous series of bloom. The most prolific blooming shrubs, however, seem to flower during the months of May and June. During the latter part of July we have but a few shrubs, such as the hydrangea, the i 54 THE COMPLETE GARDEN rose of Sharon, and the groundsel tree, which will produce flower effects. LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS FOR DIFFERENT FLOWERING EFFECTS A. Producing Flowers in Early Spring Before the Leaves Appear. The trees and shrubs included in this group produce, when in bloom, a very interesting colour note in a landscape which has been uninteresting during the winter months. Most of these plants pro- duce their best effect when used in small masses; their effect in large masses is increased only in proportion to the extensiveness of the landscape setting in which they are planted. Many interesting colour effects can be produced by the proper selection of plants from this group. Acer rubrum Forsythia (in variety) Red Maple Golden Bell Amelanchier oblongifolia Hamamelis japonica Shad-bush Japanese Witch Hazel Azalea lutea Lonicera fragrantissima Flame-coloured Azalea Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Azalea nudiflora Lonicera standishi Pinkster Flower Standish's Bush Honeysuckle Azalea vaseyi Magnolia (Asiatic varieties) Carolina Azalea Magnolia Benzoin aestivale Mahonia aquifolium Spice Bush Oregon Grape Cercis canadensis Prunus (in variety) Red-bud Japanese Flowering Cherry Chaenomeles japonica Prunus triloba Japanese Quince Flowering Plum Cornus florida Salix caprea Flowering Dogwood Goat Willow Daphne cneorum Spiraea arguta Garland Flower Hybrid Snow Garland Spiraea prunifolia flore plena Bridal Wreath B. Producing Flowers in Early Spring After the Leaves Ap- pear. Through a careful selection of plants the season of bloom from flowering trees and shrubs can be made almost continuous. There are many trees and shrubs which flower during the early spring after the leaves appear. Only those trees and shrubs which produce an TREES AND SHRUBS FOR FLOWERING EFFECTS 155 abundance of flowers, effective against a background of green foliage, are given here. Aesculus (in variety) Horse-chestnut Azalea japonic a Japanese Azalea Qaragana arborescens Siberian Pea Shrub Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cornus alternifolia Alternate-leaved Dogwood Cornus stolonifera Red Osier Cornel Crataegus (in variety) Thorn Deutzia (in variety) Deutzia Exochorda grandiflora Pearl Bush Halesia Carolina Silver Bell Lonicera bella Zabel's Honeysuckle Lonicera morrowi Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Magnolia glauca Swamp Magnolia Pyrus (in variety) Crab Rhodotypos kerrioides . j ' White Kerria, f aJU* Ko^**- Ribes aureum Flowering Currant Rosa cinnamomea Cinnamon Rose Sambucus racemosa Red-berried Elder Spiraea arguta Hybrid Snow Garland Spiraea vanhouttei. Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath Syririga (in variety) Lilac Viburnum prunifolium Black Haw Viburnum tomentosum Single Japanese Snowball C. Producing Flowers During Early Summer. The largest group of flowering trees and shrubs is that containing the types which flower during the early summer months. Carefully selected groupings of these plants may produce a continuous flower effect through June and July. Astilbe japonica Japanese Astilbe Catalpa (in variety) Indian Bean Cladrastis lutea Yellow-wood Cornus alba sibirica Siberian Dogwood Cornus paniculata Grey Dogwood Diervilla hybrida Hybrid Weigela Hydrangea arborescens sterilis Hills of Snow Kalmia latifolia Mountain Laurel " Koelreuteria paniculata Varnish Tree Ligustrum ibota Japanese Privet '^Philadelphus (in variety) Mock Orange Rhododendron catawbiense hybridum Hybrid Rhododendron Rhus cotinus Smoke Bush v Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust i S 6 Roses (in variety) Roses Rubus deliciosus Rocky Mountain Flowering Raspberry Sambucus canadensis American Elder Spiraea salicijolia Meadow-sweet Syringa japonic a Tree Lilac Viburnum carlesi Korean Viburnum THE COMPLETE GARDEN Viburnum cassinoides Withe-rod Viburnum dentatum Arrow-wood Viburnum lentago Sheep Berry Viburnum opulus High-bush Cranberry Viburnum sieboldi Siebold's Viburnum Xanthoceras sorbifolia Chinese Flowering Chestnut D. Producing Flowers During Late Summer and Early Autumn. There are comparatively few trees and shrubs which pro- duce an interesting flowering effect during the late summer months and during the early autumn. This group is composed of those plants whose flowers are effective in the landscape. Baccharis halimijolia Groundsel Bush Buddleia veitchiana Summer Lilac Clethra alnijolia Sweet Pepper Bush Elsholtzia stauntoni Elsholtzia Hamamelis virginiana Witch Hazel Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Hydrangea arborescens Wild Hydrangea Hydrangea paniculata Panicled Hydrangea Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora Large-flowered Hydrangea Hypericum (in variety) St. John's Wort Lespedeza japonicum White-flowering Desmodium Lespedeza sieboldi Siebold's Desmodium Oxydendrum arboreum Sourwood" Potentilla fruticosa Shrubby Cinquefoil Sorbaria arborea glabrata Chinese Mountain Ash Spirea Spiraea billardi Billiard's Spirea Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer Crimson Spirea Spiraea callosa alba Fortune's White Spirea Stewartia pentagyna Alleghany Stewartia Tamarix (in variety) Tamarisk Vitex agnus-castus Chaste Tree £. Producing Flowers in Shades of Red and Pink. In the development of interesting colour combinations for the flowers in landscape planting some definite association of colour schemes should be listed to assist one more readily in the selection of plants for vary- ing colour effects. All plants in the following group produce flowers in shades of red and pink. The early-flowering sorts are shown in TREES AND SHRUBS FOR FLOWERING EFFECTS 157 Group a and the late spring and summer-flowering sorts are shown in Group b. a. Early-flowering sorts: Azalea nudiflora Pinkster Flower Azalea vaseyi Carolina Azalea Cercis canadensis Red-bud Cornus florida rubra Red-flowering Dogwood Kalmia anguslifolia Sheep Laurel Magnolia soulangeana Soulange's Magnolia Prunus besseyi Western Sand Cherry Primus japonica (in variety) Flowering Almond Prunus persica vulgaris Common Peach Prunus subhirtella (in variety) Japanese Flowering Cherry Prunus tomentosa Japanese Plum Pyrus angustifolia Narrow-leaved Crab Pyrus coronaria Wild Crab Pyrus floribunda Flowering ^Crab Pyrus halliana parkmani Parkman's Crab Rhodora canadensis Rhodora b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts; Deutzia rosea Dwarf Pink Deutzia Diervilla florida Rose-coloured Weigela Kalmia latifolia Mountain Laurel Pyrus ioensis bechteli Bechtel's Crab Roses (in variety) Roses Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer Crimson Spirea Spiraea tomentosa Hardhack F. Producing Yellow Flowers. Until the trees and shrubs pro- ducing yellow flowers are grouped the reader can hardly appreciate how great is the wealth of this material. The group is divided, as are the preceding groups in the chapter, into the early-flowering types and the late-flowering types. a. Early-flowering sorts: Benzoin aestivale Spice Bush Berber is (in variety) Barberry Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Corylopsis pauciflora Japanese Flowering Hazel Cytisus scoparius Scotch Broom Eleagnus angustifolia Russian Olive Eleagnus longipes Japanese Oleaster Forsythia (in variety) Golden Bell 158 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Hamamelis japonica Japanese Witch Hazel Jasminum nudifiorum Naked-flowered Jasmine Lonicera fragrantissima Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Ribes aureum Flowering Currant Salix caprea Goat Willow Salix discolor Pussy Willow Koelreuteria paniculata Varnish Tree Laburnum vulgare Golden Chain b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts; Azalea lutea Flame-coloured Azalea Caragana arborescens Siberian Pea Shrub Colutea arborescens Potentilla fruticosa Bladder Senna Shrubby Cinquefoil Genista tinctoria Sopkora japonica Dyer's Greenweed Japanese Pagoda Tree Hypericum (in variety) Rosa foetida (variety harisoni) St. John's Wort Harrison's Yellow Rose Kerria japonica Rosa hugonis Globe Flower Father Hugo's Rose G. Producing White Flowers. This group of plants is sub- divided in the same way as are the two preceding groups, and consists only of those plants producing white flowers in sufficient quantity and size to be an effective element in the landscape planting. Early-flowering sorts: Azalea viscosa Swamp Azalea Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cornus (in variety) Dogwood Crataegus (in variety) Thorn Halesia Carolina Silver Bell Lonicera morrowi Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Lonicera tatarica alba White Tartarian Honeysuckle Magnolia stellata Starry Magnolia Prunus (in variety) Plum Spiraea arguta Hybrid Snow Garland Spiraea vanhouttei Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath Viburnum (in variety) Viburnum Late spring and summer-flowering sorts: Aesculus parvifiora Hydrangea (in variety) Dwarf Horse-chestnut Hydrangea Cladrastis lutea Ligustrum (in variety) Yellow-wood Privet Clethra alnifolia Philadelphus (in variety) Sweet Pepper Bush Mock Orange Deutzia (in variety) Physocarpus opulifolius Deutzia Ninebark Plate XXIV. An interior view of a pleached allee eight years after trims- planting. Note the spacing of the larger plants of the European cork maple at intervals of three feet, with "fillers" between each two of the larger trees. 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